i appreciate the time savings of ca hinges w/a slot machine. i've used the sig easy's. t pin to center. flex for full deflection, several quick drop of thin zap, hold 10 seconds, repeat opposite side. don't reapply ca after it has been glued once. after surface is done, flex multiple times (beyond the necessary deflection) to loosen. they always seem to be stiff enough that the servo binds with full deflection (cub elev doesn't move much; usually not a problem there, rudder needs full deflection), even with excessive hinge gap (no difference). i built a funtana s 90 w/supplied hinges (very thin material), these bend like a nylon pinned hinge, no resitance w/full 3d deflection. recently i've gone back to old fashioned dubro nylon pinned hinges epoxied in, outer hinges i epoxy a peice of t pin bent 90 degree, not coming out. what about zap hinge glue? i have done numerous test peices with sig easy's, i can't figure them out. nylons are more work, but they pivot with no resistance, i don't allow any of my servos to bind. i'm sure some one has had better luck with ca hinges than i.

Flex the control surface to the amount you will want it to move before applying the thin CA. It sounds like you are trying to move the surface more that it is mechanically possible.

Don't flood the hinge with CA, just make sure the hinge line is covered. Never go back and apply CA a second time. This will tend to harden the hinge.

If the plane is from a "build it" kit, I use triangle stock on the leading edge of the control surface to insure I have plenty of movement room available. Some times the kit aileron stock isn't beveled enough for the amount of movement I like.

For an ARF, you just have to flex the surface before gluing and then cover the gap with clear tape.

Actually, the trick is to flex the surface MORE than it will in flight.