Something none of you have mentioned is testing the CA hinges after they have been installed. I give each hinge a strong pull to see if any separation is detected. If so, I drill a pin hole through the hinge but not all the way through to the top. This hole goes through the underside of L.E. of the control suface and T.E. of the fixed surface and put a tooth pick in the hole to further secure the hinge in place. This way, I only need to touch up the bottom where the pin goes in. I also agree that drilling a hole into the slot allows the CA to "wick in better".

Here's the CA hinge you want to use. I have never had a failure with this hinge. We have a couple 34% Extra's in our club getting beat up pretty good using this hinge. It has a wicking slot for the CA. One other point is to use Ultra thin CA. The dangerous run all over the place stuff. I put 6 drops on each side of the hinge and I try to get both sides done all at one time. I prefer to keep the hinge wet on both sides to allow the wicking action to work better. Done this way you will destroy the leading and trailing edge trying to get this hinge out. I have never seen one split or crack after installation

Walt, that is super interesting! Do you work with the tach and tuning alot? I am playing with mousse cans on my OS 32 and Magnum 46 using mac's headers. I'm having fun playing with my micro torch and alum brazing rod from Harbor Freight Tools. It seems to work really good. What are you up to lately? Write to me at [email protected]

Thanks,

Ernie