OK... lots of options for control surface linkage connections...

Clevis at servo and clevis at control surface...
z-bend at servo, ball link at control surface...
clevises at both ends...
L-bend with snap-on connector...

I've even heard of people using "U-bends"

Here are the million dollar questions....

Is this a matter of personal preference or is one "system" actually better than another? Does it change depending on what control surface we're talking about? Clevises at both ends for ailerons... ball links on elevator and rudder?? Does the size of airplane come into the equation??

I'm hoping for general rule of thumb input and perhaps some specific input regarding a 60 - 90 size aerobatic ship like an Extra 300.

"Z" bends, or "U" bends are not good for a aerobatic model. (IMHO)

I like ball links all the way around, However the plain old clevis work fine for most applications.

Z-bends work fine, but can be sloppy. Never tried a "U" bend.
The "L" bend and plastic keepers-----never again. I've had 2 of them let go. Don't know how, don't know why. Maybe even my fault, but never again. (well except on my 2 meter floater gliders

A lot of it is personal preference. I prefer a Z bend at the servo arm and a clevis (nylon or metal) at the control horn. The only problem with that is I don't know of a commercial Z-bender that will make a proper bend on 4-40 wire.

Dr.1

I use cleveses on the control end and the L bend with quick conector on the servo side, except on the thottle I use ball link on the motor and ez link on the servo.

I use a Clevis at both ends, If I cannot get a setup with a threaded rod at both ends for a clevis I put a solder on clevis at one end. This is a very reliable setup and easy to work with. I also use ball links for high stress applications. I hate trying to make "Z" bends.
Anthony

Don't forget that on L bends and clivis' that you need to add a small piece of fuel line tubing over the clevis or keeper to prevent it from possibly opening up. I use a small piece about 1/8" long and then slip it over a pair of forceps, then stretch it open with the forceps and slide it over the keeper or clevis.

Tried most all of the systems but I just like the soldered clevis on one end and A threaded clevis or ball link on all the outside surfaces so I can adjust when needed without taking the plane apart. I also use A pull/pull rudder on all my planes, just because they are lighter and very easy to set up. It's mostly just choice and what has worked well in the past, they all work so go with what you like.
Bigger planes need better control systems as do stunt planes so it also depends on the plane itself.

I like z-bends at the servo because it's the lightest setup, and easily as reliable as anything else.

I don't use z bends or solder joints any longer on flight surface servos. I thread the ends myself.

I like to have a soldered clevis at the servo end and a threaded clevis at the control surface end for easy adjustment.
Gave up with nylon/plastic clevises when I lost a plane to a clevis pulling loose from the rod.
I also use a double lock nut against the threaded clevis just to keep it tight and keep any slop out of it.

Only if room in the servo compartment is tight will I resort to a Z bend.

What about screw-lock type of connection?
Anybody trust it?

It is on my profile OMP EDGE 40 size, which is 3D trainer plane.
It is working well right now: for about 4 gallons of fuel time I have not had a problem yet.... knock, knock, knock
But I have been abusing it and sometimes I wonder if I should change to solder clevis type of connection.

What do you guys think?

Hi!
It doesn't mean a thing what you use as long as the control surface is stiff as glass when you push hard on it!
I have used z-bends on 375km/h pylonracers and often use plastic clevises on elevator on most of my models be it pylonracers, scale or just sport models for 31 years now without any problems what so ever.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

canadian propnut, By the way, welcome to the forum. [8D]

Thanks Guys!

I guess I will leave it alone.

"If it is working - do not touch it!"