Ram Jet

Thanks, this is a keeper!

Bill

KI8FR

Have you ever thought of doing a video on covering a fus?

Paul

F4U Corsair

My Feedback: (22)

I'd like to 2nd a Fuse with a turtle deck as a next sequel. Thanks Minn for the great video, I've watched it several times and learned something new each time. DG

flyoz

My Feedback: (7)

Top Post MinnFlyer I have been hoping to find a video for ages, really helpful.
I will third that request for a Fuselage covering vid if you get the time

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Where can I obtain copies of covering videos or DVDs. My computer is so slow it would take hours to down load these. Thanks.

Ram Jet

I'm only arare of some You Tube stuff.

This is a great thread:

http://www.sccmas.org/smf/index.pfp?..._next=prev#new

Bill

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Bill, unfortunately that web site was closed, or according to my old computer could not open it. Never the less found Santa Claira County Modelers and there was a good long article with pictures there. Maybe it will help. Never learned to cover well so maybe it will help.

pfd17

video was great i just covered a set of wheel pants using the wing tip technique and they came out like they were painted.

SeamusG

Mike (if you're still listening ) - You used Monokote for the trim stars whose adhesive is somewhat activated by the ammonia in the window cleaner. Does this technique work with Monokote trim over Ultracote base?

TIA

Honest officer, I swear that I left my patience here a minute ago ...

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

SeamusG, Sorry this reply is about 6 months late, but somehow I got unsubscribed to this thread.

Yes, the windex trick, or acetone, or nail polish remover (with acetone) or No Heat Trim Solvent will activate the adhesive on MonoKote brand covering. Once the adhesive has been activated, you can stick it to Ultracote, your car, a window, etc.

buchtes

My Feedback: (7)

no if only someone comes up with some video's about basics in Fiber glassing, it would help me.

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

Should straight acetone work as well?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Straight acetone will work on MonoKote's adhesive, but not on Ultracote's adhesive. however, acetone is very aggressive, so you might want to dilute it with alcohol. I can only guess on the ratio, but I would say to start with a 50-50 mixture

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

Thank you for the input, was wondering what it could be cut with.

heritageman

My Feedback: (4)

Minnflyer, have you a video on covering with solartex ?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Alas, I do not. But I do have a Goldberg Cub on the bench which I am seriously considering using Solartex on just so I can do a video series - of course, WHEN I ever get around to finishing it is still undetermined!

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

MinnFlyer: I just watch your new covering video which was made several years ago. There is one thing I failed to notice and perhaps you would comment about and that is temperture of the iron and/or heat gun. I am currently completing my second Ultra Sport 60 and will be covering soon. For info, I have covered numerous birds over the past 20 plus years and consider myself the worlds worst coveror. I am enjoying your videos and trying to learn more so I can forfet the name "world's worst". Thanks
matadco

Aiden88

My Feedback: (5)

When you order your covering material it should come with instructions or have instructions on the website. In those instructions it will tell you what temps to use for tacking and shrinking. Each one may be different so follow the instructions for your specific brand of covering.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, I must confess... I have an iron thermometer (which I showed in the video) but frankly, I never use it. I just go by the results I'm getting.

I start with the dial on my iron at about a 10 O'clock position, and turn it slightly up or down depending on weather or not it is doing what I want it to do.

However, since you asked, I just checked. The iron I use most often is currently set just over 250 degrees and, when checked with the thermometer, it reads 260 degrees.

I'm honestly amazed that not only are either the dial or the thermometer accurate, but that they even concur with each other. I honestly thought one would read one number and the other would be anywhere from 20 to 50 degrees off

So there you have it. The last time I used my iron it was set at 260 degrees.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Minni for info. I am sure it will help. I am assuming you are referring to Ultra Coat rather then Monocoat. I have been told one of the two require a higher temperture setting then the other but I can't remember which is which. For the most part I have covered with Monocoat. It seems that my ability has drastically gone down hill over the last years. Can't say if Monocoat changed or my increase age is the cause but there is definately a difference. I think I will go with the Ultra Coat on new Ultra Sprot. Your comments are always appreciated and believe it or not you can teach old dogs new tricks.

matadco

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, that was probably set for Ultracote, however, if I suddenly found myself using MK, I wouldn't change anything. I would start with the iron as is,, and increase or decrease the heat as needed.

I sould also mention that I do not use the iron for shrinking - only ironing. I use the heat gun for shrinking.

And yes, MK HAS changed over the years - something to do with killing rats in California. [:@]

seniorspud

My Feedback: (69)

HI ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO GREAT RESULTS THANKS.

gregoryshock

Mike you did an awesome job with covering.  I was curious, because it doesn't look like your using an iron sock.  Is your iron sock black?  If your not using one, what is your reason why not?

dksnyder

just built a kit wing. The LE balsa sheeting was very old, dry and weak. It would crack whenever I put any pressure on it!
I covered it with very light weight silk and thin CA. It greatly improved the strength, but is was not very smooth and even!
I used gray auto "sandable primer" to smooth things out.(Iron Armor brand, said it was good for metal fiberglass or wood.)
It worked OK, but I was left with "blotchy" gray and (balsa) tan spots. II tried to cover with Dark Yellow Ultracote.... the spots showed thru terribly!!!
Now I don't know what to do....
It didn't seem that the Ultracote adhered as well to the primer as is does on wood. Maybe it's OK.... but, not sure!!
I would like to paint over the primer, or use another coat of primer (maybe white primer, if I can find it)

What would you suggest? Even coat of primer (white or gray), or paint over the primer (what paint would be best?)
Does Ultracote work on painted surfaces?
Should I apply "Balsarite" (can this be applied OVER the primer?)

HELP...Please!