Sullivan remote glowplug connector>
#1
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From: Morgantown,
WV
Anyone else using one of these? I'm trying to install one on my inverted Saito 100 and the cap doesn't seem to want to go on. Maybe if I get the hammer out
but I don't want to do that. I thought it would just click on like a standard glow plug connector would, but it is being finicky. Anyone?
but I don't want to do that. I thought it would just click on like a standard glow plug connector would, but it is being finicky. Anyone?
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From: Terrell,
TX
Hi coomarlin,on mine I just push down over the glow plug then a slight twist to the right locks it on,push down,slight twist to the left and its off.Tried mine on 2s and 4s,all have OS glow plugs,works great.
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From: Evansville, IN
I used one on my edge with a saito 100 for almost a year and I can tell you that cap wont be on there very long. vibration from the 4 stroke broke the yellow wire right at the cap within a month or two. I just used a small wheel collar to hold the wire to the glow plug. also my H9 ni starter would not hold on the external plug at all but a mcdaniel held very well ???
#4
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From: Morgantown,
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I think mine might be bad or something. It just doesn't want to go on. Now I wish I would've bought the Kavan that was used in the RCU review, but since I was already purchasing from Tower I thought I would order something they had. The kavan has the connector that looks like a spark plug cap.
#5
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I have been making the remote glow plug connectors for years and use a small wheel collor on the business end of the glow plug. The wheel coller set screw holds the colloer in place . THe wire going to your remote connector is soldered to the wheel coller. I have used this method for years on 2 and 4 stroke engines with good results.
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From: Morgantown,
WV
Originally posted by r1morris
I have been making the remote glow plug connectors for years and use a small wheel collor on the business end of the glow plug. The wheel coller set screw holds the colloer in place . THe wire going to your remote connector is soldered to the wheel coller. I have used this method for years on 2 and 4 stroke engines with good results.
I have been making the remote glow plug connectors for years and use a small wheel collor on the business end of the glow plug. The wheel coller set screw holds the colloer in place . THe wire going to your remote connector is soldered to the wheel coller. I have used this method for years on 2 and 4 stroke engines with good results.
#9

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I just added one to my YS91 for the first time,for me. You have to position it so that it will go down and then twist and it locks. It takes some finesse and with my fingers I gave up. I had a small pair of needle nose pliers and held on to it, gently turned it until it was going down then pushed on tightly and twisted. It stayed!
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From: Morgantown,
WV
Thanks, I will also try neednose pliers. My fingers just won't cut it.
Originally posted by 4*60
I just added one to my YS91 for the first time,for me. You have to position it so that it will go down and then twist and it locks. It takes some finesse and with my fingers I gave up. I had a small pair of needle nose pliers and held on to it, gently turned it until it was going down then pushed on tightly and twisted. It stayed!
I just added one to my YS91 for the first time,for me. You have to position it so that it will go down and then twist and it locks. It takes some finesse and with my fingers I gave up. I had a small pair of needle nose pliers and held on to it, gently turned it until it was going down then pushed on tightly and twisted. It stayed!
#11
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From: Morgantown,
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I tried the neednose pliers and it worked. It was almost like the headlock was glued or jammed because once it broke free it seems to work fine now.
I also want to commend the techs at Sullivan. I talked to them the other day and they were some of the nicest people I've ever talked to. They offered to send me out a free headlock. They also offered to have me send it back to them so their engineers could check it out and see if there was some kind of issue between it and the Saito plug. It turns out I don't need to, but it was nice of them to offer. Makes me feel much better about the product now.
I also want to commend the techs at Sullivan. I talked to them the other day and they were some of the nicest people I've ever talked to. They offered to send me out a free headlock. They also offered to have me send it back to them so their engineers could check it out and see if there was some kind of issue between it and the Saito plug. It turns out I don't need to, but it was nice of them to offer. Makes me feel much better about the product now.
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From: Garland, TX
its just the glow plug man.. it wont work on a supertigre plug either. There is not enough room at the base of the plug for it to lock. Just try a different plug!
d
d
#13
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I bought one of these. I couldn't get it to lock on the plugs, OS 8 and F. It is as though the crimps that hold the cap to the plug are not correct. I could get the cap on the plug, but there was not enough travel in the contact piece to maintain a positive connection.
I took it back to the LHS and they tried it on every plug they sell. Didn't work. They then tried the other Sullivans they had on the rack, none of them worked. I think a bad batch made it past their QC dept.
I have since found a small spring at the local hardware store that fits a plug perfectly. I soldered my wire to it, covered it with shrink wrap, and now have a reliable connection. It is really easy to put on and off as well.
I took it back to the LHS and they tried it on every plug they sell. Didn't work. They then tried the other Sullivans they had on the rack, none of them worked. I think a bad batch made it past their QC dept.
I have since found a small spring at the local hardware store that fits a plug perfectly. I soldered my wire to it, covered it with shrink wrap, and now have a reliable connection. It is really easy to put on and off as well.
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From: Morgantown,
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Like I mentioned in the previous post, the Sullivan seam to work great now. I even tried it on the OS F plug and it goes on easy and seems to be quite snug. I don't expect any problems from it now.
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From: Omaha,
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I bought one and mine wouldn't lock on either! Tried it on several different plugs and couldn't get it to lock on them also. I even tried removing the plugs from the engines and still no luck. This was on both 2 & 4 strokes.
I tried the needle nose trick but eneded up breaking the locking cap so I dyked it off and soldered on a wheel collar, works fine now!
I tried the needle nose trick but eneded up breaking the locking cap so I dyked it off and soldered on a wheel collar, works fine now!
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From: Whitby, ON, CANADA
Same trouble here with my Sullivan. I'm gonna go try the pliers and hope... I bought a few hangar 9 setups and they attach without a problem. The 1/8 jack works so much better on the other side because I don't have to hang the glow driver off the side of the plane anymore so less weight strain.
Bob
Bob
#18
That is a nice photo of the Sullivan setup!
I think there are certain brands of glow plugs that cause problems with remote drivers not locking on properly....
Try it on another brand of plug and see what happens.
Ernie
I think there are certain brands of glow plugs that cause problems with remote drivers not locking on properly....
Try it on another brand of plug and see what happens.
Ernie
#19

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It's the same thing with glow starters, not all will hold onto all types of glow plugs.
As far as the remote and onboard system connectors go, I have found the Maxx Products connector #ACC133 to work with all plugs.
The wire for the connector goes through the side of the connector and is spring loaded and and grabs onto the center electrode holding it in place.
If the electrode is a short one as on some plugs you just cut off some of the bottom of the rubber housing and it will fit just fine.
I've seen one system where a guy coated the end of a wire with solder and attached it to the electrode with a small wheel collar.
As far as the remote and onboard system connectors go, I have found the Maxx Products connector #ACC133 to work with all plugs.
The wire for the connector goes through the side of the connector and is spring loaded and and grabs onto the center electrode holding it in place.
If the electrode is a short one as on some plugs you just cut off some of the bottom of the rubber housing and it will fit just fine.
I've seen one system where a guy coated the end of a wire with solder and attached it to the electrode with a small wheel collar.
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From: Crete,
IL
I do the same thing as r1morris. Cut the connector off and solder on a small wheel collar (file a spot of the plating off first). I cut a very small piece of silicone fuel tubing and slip that over the electrode and then tighten on the wheel collar. The tubing is just a little insurance that the collar doesn't touch the base of the plug.



