I was a little over zealous with he amount of toe in on my sons H9 corsair. I had put some toe in because i have mounted a RCV 90 in the corsair wich produces alot of torque on take off roll i heard. So i thought a little toe in will help tracking on the ground and on take off roll. I haven't maiden this plane yet but taxi test and just rolling the plane on the ground there is quite some resistence due to the toe in. How do i get JB weld to soften up so i can take out some toe in.

Grinder.

A small brick of C-4 explosives?? Sorry, not trying to make light of your situation but I don't know that there is any way to soften JB Weld once it has set. At least no way that I've ever found. The closest I've come is removing it and that required a lot of work with a dremel and a grinding wheel.

Sorry that I don't have better news

Ken

Grind it off, that's what I had to do once. Also the RCV does not cause any more torque related issues than a standard four stroke. I have one on my Sea Fury

It doesn't look like much toe in in the pics. Or is it just me ?

it releases at 500 - 700 degrees Fahrenheit

Unless that toe in is very excesive, I doubt that it is adding much resistance. I'd suggest leaving it in (it will help in several aspects) until you fly the model a few times and get a feel for how it handles on takeoffs and landings.

JB Weld is a special type of epoxy and I have never had the occasion to try and remove it.

However; When trying to dig through a printed circuit board that has been coated in epoxy I used a soldering iron with a Xacto blade (push type). The heat softened the epoxy and then the blade pealed thin layers away - slowly.

Good Luck.

Am I seeing set screws on the axle housing of the struts? Just where did you JB Weld? Shouldn't there be some adjustment between wing and wheel or is that just "scale dressing" in all the various collars and fittings?

Don't know that it'll work on JB Weld, as it has metal particles in it to strengthen the bond, but try heating the area with a heat gun while applying a little torque to the joint and see if it will relax enough to take out some of the toe-in. When you get it where you want it (if it moves at all), hold it there and remove the heat, let it harden again.

Bright side.....you can have a little higher idle without the plane wandering away while idling!

Oh heck it is probably not repairable, just box it up and send it on down South!

According to CJ instructions they tell you to ad some JB weld on the bottom of the strut behind that set screw. I can losen that screw right off and those axle housings will stay put. Maybe i'll try some better taxi tests once the nicer weather sets in and the field finally dries out. Thanks for the info guys.

grinder.

I tried to get some better pics.

Grinder.

Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?
A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold.

This is from the J.B. Weld website.

Dan

I would wait and see how it taxis