Hello all, I have a hangar 9 ARF 60 spitfire and was wanting to do a few things to perk it up. First off, I'm looking to add exhaust marks, and panel lines with wear marks (such as silver wear from paint wear). Is it possible to paint onto the covering with spray paint and if so, how do I go about it and with what paint? As for panel lines is there a marker that is fuel resistant? And the silver paint? You all see where I'm going with this....I really know nothing about it. I've read a little about roughing the coating before painting, and this also flattens it. If this is paintable, would it then be possible to sand a bit of the entire model and paint the camo scheme a different color (like the MK V's and on with a bluish camo color), or is this just too much? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, CW

CW,

I've had good success painting Monokote but the trick is preparation and using the correct paint.

I use Rustoleum in the spray cans exclusively. If I had an airbrush, I would still use Rustoleum.

Preparation includes taping the borders of the area to be painted and for that I use the 3M masking tape. Most people use the blue colored tape but only because they may not have heard of the green tape. The green tape is designed to not leave residue when you pull it up AND to not pull up paint to which you may have taped it. It's as effective as the blue tape in creating a clean, tight border.

First, rough up the surface. I use steel wool but sandpaper will work fine too. Make certain that the surface to be painted is absolutely clean. I use alcohol immediately before painting to be sure there's no oily residue.

Prime the area to be painted. If you don't prime it, your paint won't stick. Period. Use Rustoleum automotive gray primer.

Next, use Rustoleum spray enamel in whatever color(s) you want. Then forget about your model for at least three days so that the paint will thoroughly cure. It's critical that the paint be totally cured and that the painted surface remain clean. Don't even touch it.

I assume that your .60 size ARF will be powered by a glow engine so you'll want to put a good coat of Rustoleum Crystal Clear over the painted surface. I believe you can get the clearcoat in a matt finish so that your camo scheme will not be shiny.

Good luck. Post a few photos when you get done.

I agree with mirwin. I experimented many years ago with applying paint to pastic coverings. That was back when evryone said it couldn't be done. I found that epoxy and petroleum based paints will adhere very well using mirwin's method. But, I've never been able to get a water based paint to stick. I've never tried putting water based over automotive primer sprayed on the covering. I think it might work, but I've always just used the same brand of paint for the color as the primer. I've had my best results with Rustoleum. You can buy it in a non-spray can and mix the colors to get what you want. It will need a little thinner to get it to spray well. Practice on a scrap panel to get everything figured out. Follow mirwin's advice about surface prep and cleaning. That's the secret!

Paul

Great info guys! So you're saying that Rustoleum is a better candidate than the paints that monokote or ultrakote sell? Also, with the mixing of the paints, are you saying use an airbrush to apply it? If so, does that require a brush and compressor or is there an easier way to get around that? Also, although I will do the clear coat, but will the paint remain on even without it?? Once again, thanks for the help, if this works I plan to convert this thing to a MK V with canons!

There's a thread on the Hangar 9 Camel on another site, one with groups of RC....., where this is done to good effect. I'm hounding him for updates on how well it lasted, but the initial effect was very impressive.

Cam

Do you have the link to that site?

Looks like these guys are using top flight flat coats....any opinions between Rustoleum and the model versions???

Rustoleum is better than the Top Flite Ultrakote. It's easier to work with and there are many colors from which to choose. If you can find the color(s) you want in the spray can, then you don't need to use an airbrush. Otherwise, you buy the Rustoleum in a can, and mix it, thin it, and use your airbrush - if you have an airbrush, which I wish I did. Rustoleum out of the can is (1) shiny and (2) not glow fuel proof. That's why you need to use the clearcoat.

The primer, paint and clearcoat MUST be all Rustoleum. Try any other clearcoat and you'll have blistered paint and it probably won't cure.


Mike

Ok, thanks! There are a few different types of Rustoleum, will the basic type work?
Charles

Howdy, just caught the thread, I have just finnished and not flown (yet) my hangar 9 60 spitfire, the coating looked rubbish all shinny so i painted it withclear matt Estapol, looks unreal.
can anybody tell me how these things fly, do you need flaps for landing etc. Any tips apprieciated
Lee

Hey Leehunt, I'd love to see some pics if you have any. Did you repaint the entire thing? After looking around, it looks like even a flat coat goes a long way!! This is my second Hangar 9 Spit. I had a Super Tiger 61 on the first one, and it flew great for a warbird! The only thing I noticed was a tendency to loose altitude on high AoB turns more than others. My friend with a different Spit has this same tendency. Might just be and elliptical wing Spit thing. In any case, it wasn't much. This new one, I'm planning on putting a SAITO 100 on it with a Keleo custom exhaust. As far as flaps, they work well despite the trip adjustments with them up or down (if you don't have a radio that will compensate). I flew it on a rather large old runway so I didn't use them as much just to avoid the re trimming, but the few times I did, they worked well!

Once again, any pics and info on it's durability would be great. Tomorrow I'm going to get some Rustoleum and try this process on a test model. How did you work around the decals? I'm thinking of removing the read fuselage ones to fit a white stripe on it, and repainting the emblems and letters.

Spitfire 13.Hey mate I just masked out the canopy and painted over the lot with the estapol, emblems the lot. I have never seen a war plane that was shinny?????. Oh look over there shoot that one!!!!
Will try and get some photos tommorrow after I have flown it.
Please, how do the take off and land ( one always gets nervous about a new plane) maybe thats why we do it for the adrenaline?.
I have a Saito 125 in mineand replaced the original retracts with robart mechanical one seems better but Iam not covinced, may someone could be very specific and say buy this!!!! they work, by the way this is my first plane with retracts Jeeez!!
Hey I had a smaller Spitfire and it lost height on turns !! Ill be ready
Lee

The takeoff's had no noticeable issues other than you'll probably want to give it a smooth acceleration as sometimes got a nose down tendency if I slammed it to full throttle. As for the landing, I always brought it in a bit hot for fear of stalling it out and destroying the retracts (which were always wobbly, as most are) but it's a well flying model so I'd say do what you normally do. Let us know how it went!

Ok, so after being disappointed with my local Lowes selection, I've looked online, and it looks like the clear Matte Rustoleum is oil based. Is this a problem??? And how glossy is the Crystal Clear? Iis it alright to use their oils with latex and enamel? (ie, could I paint one color with an enamel, another with a latex color, and clear coat it with the oil based clear???) Thanks again for the help!
CW

Here's that link you were after Charles

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766116

Cam

Spitfire13, every time I've mixed paint types and manufacturers, I've ended up with blistered or dissolved paint. The Crystal Clear, as i recall, is a matt finish so it shouldn't be too shiney. Check the label though.

Where in TX are you? I grew up in Dallas back in the 50's. Still have some family in N. Dallas and Wylie.

Mike

Hey Mirwin,
I am actually here in S Texas, stationed at Kingsville Naval Air Station with the Navy. Been here for about 6 months now. I'm originally from Hawaii. The people here are nice, though I do need to beef up on my Spanish ;-)

As for the paints, I found a decent selection in the Home Depot in Corpus, and got the auto primer, a test camo green, and the clear coat. The clear coat does say glossy, however I am wondering if a light sand would keep the protective coat but flatten it out. I also got some Testors spray enamel to test as well (once again, a primer, color, and this time a dull coat) Any word on these paints??? I have a crashed plane I am doing some test painting on. The Rustoleum seems really nice, yet making the proper colors and flat quality still poses a challenge. If I can get the Testor model paints to work, then I'd be golden. Any ideas? BTW the green side of a 3M sponge pad words very well for the initial sanding, and actually would do a great job at simply changing a glossy Hangar 9 Warbird into a flat scheme. You also don't run the risk of damaging the covering, and you can't see any rub marks!

I'll keep you updated. The Camel thread seemed interesting and a possible method I might resort to if these don't work. I tried to contact the guy, but my RC groups registration won't send me a confirmation email so I can't post anything :-( Thanks again for the help.
Charles

Hey Spitfire do you use flaps for landing, could not fly last night to windy, so trying tonight in about 3 hours, why do I get so scared. (Big Sheila ay mate)
Lee

Well, you do live in "Katherine"

Spifire,

I know some feel that Rustoleum is not 100% fuel proof, but I have never had a problem up to 15% nitro. I've never tried fuel higher than that. I've never clear coated Rusoleum. Here's the deal... Rustoleum uses "fish oil" (so I'm told) and does not seem to attack other types of paint. I've used it over eveything but laquer based paint and have had good success. The secret is to let it dry AT LEAST a week before you touch it. Don't allow fuel on it for a week minimum! That's why a lot of people won't use it. No patience.

Paul

P.S. Spray it on thin. If you build it up too much, the first coats will never dry to fuel proof quality. Rustoleum does not breath like enamels or laquers.

aaaaah smarty ay Bairnsdale????, that in Mexico right!!.Still to windy to fly []. must be all the hot air from south

PMW, i can definitely wait a week if it means the difference between success and failure, however, you said they are made with fish oil..however the sprays I have purchased are all enamel. Right now I have some test pieces drying with the rustoleum and testor enamel sprays.

As for flaps or not, I'd say if you're flying off a shorter runway, use them! You'll be able to bring it in slower, but you will have to retrim nose down (unless you have the auto trip function on your radio with flaps). I'd say if you have enough space try a noflap, then bring it in with flaps. But beware, with flapsdown, you'll be able to approach turn stall it easier with a high AoA. My first one, I actually flew in a way too short runway (before I found this long strip) and had full flaps. I ran out of room, and tried to force it into the air only to have it turn stall into a post. Luckily it was ok short of a wing ding. I haven't experienced this with flaps up, but then again, I haven't painted myself into a corner like that since. ;-) Let us know how it goes!
Chuck

Thanks for the advise, I have mixed in a bit of elevator down with the flaps but dont really know how much to put in, have put about 3deg down in, still will see what happens tonight I hope.
Third time lucky. Depending on the wind direction I have 3 different runways to choose from but only one long one so Ill make my mind up then
Lee

Flew the plane for the maiden, all went perfectly what a wonderful plane to fly, mine has no bad habits at all and was a breeze to land with out flaps!!
tried to post some phots but couln't get them on???? will try again later
Thanks to all for the help so far
Lee