richg99

Years ago, I had a "screw holder" device that slid over the end of a flat bladed screwdriver.

It consisted of two flat metal "L" s that held either side of a screw until the thread was started, When started, the "L" device slipped off and screwing continued.

I have been looking for, with no good results, a similar tool for tiny Phillips-headed screws that are used on cowls, servos etc. Anyone know of such a device? I guess I could cobble one up by bending some metal and adding a little shrink tubing...but...anything around to be purchased? thanks, Richg99

vmsguy

For what it's worth, I had a similar screw holder on a flat blade screw driver. I haven't seen one in years though.

For a philips? Never seen anything similar. The best I have ever been able to come up with is a magnetic one...

Also, I found I have many different brands and sizes of screwdriver. One brand differs from another, sometimes enough that a philips bit will "hold" a screw, where another brand won't.

And finally, don't be afraid to throw a screwdriver away, once the bit gets rounded a little, the screwdriver is worse then useless, it's actually dangerous. I can't think of anything worse then when you're finishing assembly on a plane, the last thing is putting on the cowl, and the screwdriver slips off to tear or gouge the fuselage....

Hareman

My Feedback: (1)

I usually just place a small magnet on the shaft of a screwdriver near the handle, which magnetizes the whole thing and holds any STEEL screw. Of course it won't work with brass or stainless steel screws.
In a pinch, you can also cut a small piece of masking tape and stick the screw thru the sticky side and then place it onto the point of the screwdriver and bring the tape around to the blade to hold the screw until you get it started, and then remove the tape just before it gets tight.

GAP-RCU

I use a 1/2" long piece of fuel tubing slipped onto the screw driver. Normally it stays up on the shaft of the driver, but when needed, I just bring the tubing down over the head of the screw. It's not as nice as a magnet, but it works in nearly any situation with any type of screw. Cheap too.

Bad_Daddy

http://www.ehobbytools.com/index.htm...tml&lang=en-us
http://www.newmantools.com/hand/hjj.htm
http://www.nextag.com/screw-holder/search-html

Campgems

The magnet works on ferious, non stainless screws. For others, you can use a sticky wax, the kind used for braces. Other things I've used is rubber cement, just a small dab on the end of the screw driver will usually hold the screw long enough to get it started. These work with socket heads also.

The down side though is that youmay have some wax or rubber cement to clean up when finished.

If you can, and it's a big if sometimes, position the piece being screwed so you are screwing in the screw from under it. Gravity will hold the screw on a screwdriver that fits the screw. One other thing I've used is to use a jewelers tweezers and carefully put the screw into the hole, then carefully using the screwdriver for final alignment and screwing. This only works from above.

Cursing will sometimes help in that it lets off enough steam to prevent one from picking up a hammer and "nailing" the screw.


Don

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

The main reason for this is nearly all of the screws that we get today are not Phillips head -- they are JIS head screws. Get yourself a good set of JIS screwdrivers -- you won't regret it!

Rodney

I'll second what GalenB says, you will never regret getting a good set of JIS screwdrivers as most of the small electonics gadgets we use all use JIS type screws. They may look like Philllips heads but they are much different. Once you see the difference in how well they hold a screw and how much torque you can use without stripping out the heads, you will be glad you made the purchase. Most hobby shops carry them.

kdc

For holding and starting small screws nothing beats a 'pearl catcher ' also called a pick up tool. They are the gadgets with 3 wire prongs which open when the plunger is depressed. I think jewellers use them. They hold servo screws firmly enough to start them off . Invaluable tool.

There are plastic or metal case versions available (in Britain ) from Proops www.proopsbrothers.com and often seen at exhibitions. Cost is 1.50 pounds (plastic ) or 3 pounds( metal )

Robotech

My Feedback: (9)

Here: http://amessupply.com/view1.cfm?aid=...00&pid=1406500

And Here: http://amessupply.com/view1.cfm?aid=...10&pid=1406510

Magnetizer: http://amessupply.com/products1.cfm?...DJ&fid=1306470

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I remember Ames Supply from my typewriter repair days. They carry a lot cool, small tools that can be adapted to modeling. I still have several spring hooks that I use a lot.

Robotech

My Feedback: (9)

Holy cow. Another ex-typewriter repairman! Came up on board with the Underwood standards, Olivetti's and IBM Selectrics then on to Word Processors and PC's. I still have my old Dave Platt briefcase/toolcase full of the old tools. Amazes the guys at the field when I whip out a springhook or duckbill pliers.

rcavi8or

i have one of those tools you sometimes get them in cheep screwdriver sets like the purple handeled ones.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Yeah, I worked for a shop in Albuquerque that a several hundred Selectrics, at the state capitol and University of NM on service contracts, but when I moved down here in '93, none of the shops had any Selectrics on contract, so I got out of the T/W repair biz. Kept the spring hooks, duckbills and VACO screwdrivers, and sold all the special tools on bay. Never looked back. Although, if I could find some good ole cancer casing "TriClor", I would sure be happy though.

red1

richg99

No builder should be without a MicroMark catalog. If you go online to http://www.micromark.com , click on clamps/jigs/fixtures, then click on speciality tools, you will find: 1) Gripster Holding Tool, and 2) Quick Wedge Screwdriver/ Screw Starter. I believe their printed catalog may list one of two other similar items. This is a great source of tools for the modeler.

red 1 (aka Don Borton)
AMA IMAA
WACo Brotherhood #72

JGspeed

I had to solve this problem regularly doing field service work. A magnetized driver is useless when the screws are non-ferrous or your trying to work in tight spots with lots of other steel around. My Final Solution was to use a length of silicon tubing over the shaft of the driver. Slide it down over the head of the screw and pull it back onto the driver.

I've had many of the commercial screw holders, I think I still have one in the toolkit, they work OK in most situations but the silicon tubing has never failed when you get the tubing size a tight fit on the shaft.

camdyson

Just stick the screw to the driver with blue-tac. Screw it in and withdraw the driver - usually pulls the blue-tac with it, easy to fish out if doesn't.

simple