Can one of you guys look in your gee-bee instruction manual and tell me if
I am wrong? I have already made the elevator push-rods..

http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1326-manual.pdf
Page 26

Now I am reading for the rudder rod it .. Is at 6.5 inches (for the threaded part)

And 8 inches for the non- threaded part? (LOOK) at #24 and what throws me off
is #27 (says non-threaded) Then look at #30... kinda confusing.

So I am thinking it is a misprint..

I should have 2 rods with 6.5 (threaded) and 7.5 inches
and one rod at 6.5 (threaded) and 8 inches.

Thanks for your help,
Jeff

What brand Gee Bee?

Great Planes , My Edit would not let me change that
in the header after I posted. it is only showing on
this page above.. sorry.
Jeff

Jeff, #24 says to cut 61/2" long rod threaded on one end. #27 says on the non threaded end, the end opposite of the threads make a 90 degree bend 1/4 " long. This is the end that goes into the wood push rod. Here is what #27 in my manual states: On the non-threaded end of the 6-1/2" [165mm] wire make a 90 degree bend 1/4" [6mm] from the end of the wire. I hope this helps. One thing I would like to mention is the CG on this plane. IT IS CRITICAL. This plane sits on the CG like a round rock on a pencil point. On landings she wants to nose over.

Good Luck

Bob

I see what you mean , all threaded ends are 6 1/2" for all 3 rods and the unthreaded [portion is the same for the elevators but different for the rudder.

Thanks Bob, For the CG Info,, BUT the 6.5 is the threaded end, (not the non-threaded end) and on the other end (8 INCHES) I believe is the non-threaded) I really
think it is written wrong...

Ok, but I think you are wrong. You are building a wood and and metal push rod, the non threaded ends go into the wood, the other end must be threaded to accept the silicone clevis.
One end at the servo and the other a the control horn. The longer 8" rod exits the fuse to control the rudder. My Gee-Bee is assembled and hanging from the ceiling so can't look.

Bob , you are absolutely right on that part. but the one last rod to build is not written right in the instructions.
I think what I am wanting to hear is that the last push-rod is 6.5 threaded and the other end (non-threaded) is going
to be 8 inches.
But they way the instructions read they are saying put the non-threaded 6.5 inch into the dowel.
I guess I am wrong and I am not seeing that right? [:-]
Jeff

Ok Jeff, we are getting there. If you look at the picture on page 26 under instruction #32 you can see that the rod is threaded. I think it has to be longer [8"] to reach the control horn and have enough travel. You are right on the instructions for the last wire. It doesn't explain it as well. I guess they expect you to build it the same.

cougar,
when I first read the manual I read it fast and like you it seemed they wre refering to a 6 1/2 " unthreaded rod,but if you read it slow it says
On the non-threaded end of the 6-1/2" [165mm] wire make a 90 degree bend 1/4" [6mm] from the end of the wire.
you are making a 90 degree bend 1/4" long on the unthreaded end on the wire{threaded portion} you allready cut to 6 1/2 inches.they do not want you to bend the threaded end of the wire.hope this helps you

Ya know if you read it like that and slow down it makes perfect since now *LMAO* Oh shheesh I though I was going CRAZY!
Thanks for making that clearer to me.. SO I do have THREE RODS with 6 1/2 inch threads on them now..
THANKS!
Jeff

*hanging head in shame* [:-]