I was wondering if a solder connection, instead of crimp, is stronger and better for a pull pull system on a 25% Giles 202. And if it is, why does everything I read tlalk about crimping?

I suspect soldering is more likely to fracture the cable after it is bent/stressed. I crimp (loop through the fitting before crimping), and have seen nothing other than crimps on other planes.

No reason not to do both, assuming you are using wire/cable for your lines. With kevlar, upholstry thread crimp and wick in ca instead of solder.
Mike

I crimp. I dont like to solder cause the vibrations MAY eventually break it. Sorta like electical wire, which I have seen break. Probably being paranoid but crimping has worked for years for me so I see no reason to change. I use 80lb plastic coated fishing leader wire, dimple crimp (same as pilgrim) then heat shrink over the crimp.
Edwin

I think soldering could cause the cable to fail where the solder ceases and the cable goes on without. This is a hard spot in the cable and will end up being a focus point for flexing and vibration, eventually leading to metal fatigue. I know the American Boat and Yacht Counsel (ABYC) does not recommend soldering when crimping amp type fittings to electrical wire in boats. This is a similar application, exposed to high vibration and movement.

My personal opinion is I will not solder this type of fitting due to the above.

Hi!
All wire used for fishing and airplanes use is stainless steel and it is clad with thin layer of plastic...and such wire are better crimped! Not sweet soldered.

Full scale planes use crimping and not solder. I'm just guessing but I bet it's for the same reasons that others have noted here. I'll be crimping.

Thanks everyone, I guess i'll be sticking with the crimp fitting.

A crimped joint will not fail if done correctly (the line itself will fail first). Additionally, some types of solder flux/paste (in time, if not removed/cleaned) can eventually deteriorate and corrode some types of cabling/line. Bob

I learned one thing in this thread, I'll be using CA after I crimp. Should work nicely as extra insurance. Love RCU.
Edwin

As you now know it is much better to krimp. But if you don't want to have to deal with getting it "just right" the first time then check out the link below (great planes duluxe pull pull). Right now I have it in a 50cc bling 3d and it has held up great with no problems.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEVW5&P=7

Austin

Heeeeeyyy! That looks pretty good. The same thing is done on sail boats.
Edwin

I crimp all my pull-pull installations. Those planes are generally 28 to 40% and weigh up to 27 pounds. Others crim their larger 40 and 50% planes weighing over 55 pounds in some cases. No glue, no solder, just crimped. A 25% 202 is not going to stress a well assembled pull-pull installation to the point of failure. Simple fittings such as 4-40 machine thread hook eyes will hold on a 40% plane if so desired.

They don't have to be made to perfect lengths, that's what the threads in the connectors, clevises, or turnbuckels are for. The lines do not need to be, nor should they be, guitar string tight. Just not sagging or floppy is fine.

Don't make more work or weight for yourself than is necessary. This has all been done thousands of times before now.

The Great Planes system looks like the way to go, i'm ordering one now. Thanks

Some of the pull-pull systems use plastic coated cable....not easily solderable by any means. That type of cable is meant to have swaged or crimped cable fittings. (The cable supplied is actually fishing leader material, or similar) Have you ever seen a soldered cable fishing leader? They use small "Nicopress" style cable splice sleeves.

Full scale aircraft control cables require swaged end fittings. I have swaged and installed lots of them over the years.

Harley Condra
BVM REP
JetCat REP

Here's a pic of the great planes pull-pull installed (minus the fuel tubing to hold the clevis on)

Austin

I used to cut small lengths of brass tubing to use as crimps ..... (what a pain in the $%@# that was) ... until I learned that these were available (from DuBro, in 2 sizes). $ 2.50 for a bag of 12 ... (money well spent). Bob

Austin,
I see some sharp looking frayed ends sticking out of the wedge clamp that could make you bleed.
How about some heat shrink tubing over it?

Harley Condra
BVM REP
JetCat REP

Bob,
DuBro probably gets them from McMaster-Carr.
See catalog page 1385.
You can get a package of 50 pieces for $5.93. P/N 3926T42

Harley Condra
BVM REP
JetCat REP

Harley,

This was before the plane was finished and the picture was taken for my build thread. Since then, the clevis has gotten fuel tubing and the wire has been cut evenly with the lock.

Austin

Good move. Punctures are painful.

Harley

Dubro packages an adjustable 4-40 pull-pull kit with enough wire to outfit a couple of 28-30% planes. It's a crimp system. That Great Planes kit looks heavy, which is something you typically don't need at the back of a plane. SWB sells some extremely nice threaded connections that permit very fine adjustment of cables. Again, designed for crimps. AirWild also has similar parts for the job.

Don't be afraid to perform crimps on pull-pull wire installations. All you have to do is follow the directions that come with each product to do a good job.