What do you guys use to fuelproof with? I always use 30 minute epoxy thinned with alcohol,but this time I'm doing a pretty big area and would like to maybe try something that might be easy to work with and not dry quite as fast. I was thinking about trying to thin some of my Elmers ProBond wood glue with something? Might that work,or what do you guys do?

I want something thats gonna be fairly heavy duty,and something I can make from stuff I already got or can easily find at any hardware store. Suggestions? [sm=teeth_smile.gif]

I use the epoxy with alcohol. How big an area are you talking about? I use a small brush to apply the mix.

I gotta do the engine compartment of my Sig Hog Bipe,and I want to coat the whole tank compartment which is pretty big like maybe 7"x3"x 4" and the tank floor. I'll probly end up using epoxy,I just thought maybe someone would make me consider something new to try.

I've used 20 minute finishing epoxy as is. Thin and soaks into the wood well. I brush it on with an acid brush and only enough to get good coverage. Leaves a nice thin coat of epoxy.

Larry

PS...I have heard and have proven that Alcohol will make epoxy a bit rubbery when it cures.

Finishing resin epoxy is excellent as already suggested.

It doesn't need thinning and penetrates great. It gives plenty of time but will be cured the next day.

Haven't seen anything new that does as good a job.

Hmm, I have never had a problem with the epoxy/alcohol mix curing properly. [sm=confused.gif]

You ca also use clear BUTYRATE dope. I use SIG clear (4 oz bottle). DO NOT USE NITRATE DOPE. Nitrate dope is not fuel proof.

It worked 20 years ago and it is lighter than epoxy. It also dries quickly.

I've thinned 30 or 40 minute epoxy with acetone with excellent results. No sticky or rubbery residue. If you are using alcohol use 90% or better yet use denatured alcohol. The cheap over the counter 50% stuff has a lot of water in it. I'm not sure but I think this is what can give some epoxy that rubbery feel.

BTW the can of acetone actually says it's a thinner for epoxy and foberglass finishing resins.

You can use thin CA too. But a few drops in a roll it around. You can also use some scrap balsa and work it in. Just keep it moving.

I've always used the finishing resin with good results, but lately I've been wondering if Polyurethane rattle cans might be a good choice.
Anyone have any experience with poly?

DaveB

Alcohol and epoxy, 30min. #1, Straight finishing epoxy, #2, Dope #3, that's A lot of CA?? And I have tried the Poly U paint once with good effects. Thinning the Epoxy with Alcohol has always been my number one go to and it has worked out well for A lot of years. I had A couple of large bottles of finishing epoxy and tried that and it works fine. Sometimes the Dope is hard to find. Isn't that statement leaving the door opened. I only tried the Poly paint once and the plane is still together without any oil soak. I have just used the Klass Kote paint for the first time, painting A plane, not fuel proofing, this stuff is so tough I tried to rub it off with Acetone and it didn't even remove the shine so it or the old K&B two part epoxy paints would be A great fuel proofer and it comes in clear too. Price is A killer though.[&:]

The water based poly is fuel resistant, not fuel proof. I have used it over a plane painted in latex in order to protect the paint. It works well, but you need to clean the plane well.

I think the standard poly in a can would be a good option though.

I'd beware of polyurethane in the engine bay - keep it for the flying surfaces and stick with finishing resin for the firewall/engine areas.

BTW I find rattle can polyurethane always clogs - recently found a water-based one in a tin you can spray on with a touch-up gun. Much cheaper and easier to apply a nice thin even coat.

Cam

whats the best mix ratio when using 30 min epoxy for fuel Proofing ... IE , 1 part resin, 1part hardener and ? parts denatured alcohol.. Or in other terms if you have the epoxy mixed per mfg's directions, say one ounce ready to apply how much Alcohol would I add to this to use it to fuel proof the firewall and inside the fuse ?

I've never really measured out exactly how many parts alcohol. I just mix the epoxy and add alcohol until it reaches a consistency that will brush on easily. It usually doesn't need much alcohol. I'm guessing mabye .75 parts alcohol. Add it in little by little until it will brush on.

The epoxy/alcohol method works. Last season the fuel tank in my Piper Cub ruptured, creating a swimming pool of 30% in the bottom of the fuselage. I blotted it all out with towels and wiped the inside dry. The fuel never leaked even through the thin sheeting. There was NO damage at all.

Great... Thanks alot Nate, I was hanging around in hopes this would get answered fast so I could head to the Hardware store and get some items I need will grab the alcohol there also.

have a great day

Yeah....I just used my regular method of mixing 30 min epoxy with regular old rubbing alcohol(yeah the cheap stuff). And it works just fine. I just mix it up like Nate said with adding some alcohol till it brushing nicely. And it probably is close to .50-.75 part alcohol to 1 part epoxy I guess.