What is the best way to attach your control horns to push rod by z bends or solder kwik links or 90 degree bends with clip . How safe is the clip ?
Thank you ,
Ken

If you use the Z bends at the servo end and either nylon or metal clevis at the control surface horn then you can make mechanical adjustments without taking the wing off. I was never a fan of the clip method and actually the best way (IMHO) is to use ball links on the servo ends and either clevis or more ball links on the control surface horns. Z bend are OK but they will become a problem after a few years of wearing the hole in the horn a little larger over time.

I never use z bends on any external control horn connections. If I use z bends they will always be on the inside of the plane. I have use 90 degree bends with clips on quite a few of my planes and they seem to work very well. I havent really had any problems with any clips poping off but you can put a peice of fuel tubing or tape over the clip to secure it from poping out. The 90 degree bend with a clip as well as the solder clevis are both fixed settings so that means you will need to be able to adjust the pushrod on the servo end using an ez connector or clevis or something. I like the pushrods with threads on the end and the adjustable clevis that can screw in an out for minor adjust ments. With the threaded pushrod on the control horn, you can have a z bend on the servo arm.


David

I like using a Z bend at the servo arm and an adjustable nylon clevis at the control horn. I make the Z bend using a pair of Z bend pliers so it's nice and square and tight.

They all work fine for the right Ap. What size plane are we talking here?

Like David I've used the clips many times in smaller (up to 40 size) planes without any issues,,
Once you get into 60-90 size or larger No way I'd use them on a control surface,, throttle maybe.

good luck

Most of mine are 90ΒΊ bends with clips at the servo and a threaded clevis (clip) at the control horn. On my larger (gas) models I use ball-and-socket connectors at the servo and a soldered clevis at the control horn.

Z-bends are pretty foolproof but you have to watch you don't distort the hole in the arm when pushing them in. That allows slop. A Z-bend at the throttle arm can save the need for big cut-outs in a canopy or other clearance issues. You also have to plan ahead for adjustments if you have a guide tube and need to get the control rod out. ;-)