Thanks!

Ok I had a big three day race this weekend. I finally got the Mayhem to handle like I want. What I ended up doing is putting a 3mm shim behind the front a-arms and a 2mm shim in front of the a-arms. This gave me a good mix of both entry steering and exit steering. First of all every body who has the rtr or even the pro engine mounts needs to get rid of them. I would suggest using the one piece Mugen mounts. I have been through one set of rtr mounts and two sets of pro mounts. The screw holes keep stripping out. I put the mugen mounts on and haven't had a prob with them yet. I also had a rear cvd come apart on me. As far as everything else it was great. The suspension works great and man was that engine screaming!


And by the way, I am thinking of selling my mayhem. I want to get a 777 now. It is just too difficult in my area to get parts for the mayhem. It is a great buggy and is profesionaly setup. The car comes with the jp-1 pipe threaded collars and lots of oils and tires. I will let it go rtr for 400.00. That is with no charger and my roto start got stollen. It also has mugen clutches, titanium 13 tooth clutch bell, and mugen clutch springs.

Does the Mugen 1-piece MM bolt right into the Mayhem? Does it work with the roto-start. Who carries them? thanks.

I don't think the 1piece Mugen motormount goes on like that

you see on pictures the rear mounts-chassis screws are further away
and use also 4 mm screws only against 5mm
gilles ????

I might be wrong but I thought I read somewhere that the mugen mounts would work. But then again I have read so much stuff I might be getting them confused with another car. Also I forgot to mention before that I have a brand new set of pro engine mounts to go with my car!

Has anyone tried the large(9mm) carb insert. I'm still running the medium. I am curious about how the performance changed. Is it too much power?

I have never used anything but the big insert so I can't give you a comparison. And as for the other question there is never too much power!

Well, on Sunday I got about three tanks of fuel through my break in process. It took three ours to do so, but I think it is because I am looking for something that cannot happen...my vision of a lot of smoke was not what I had expected. Apparently Blue Thunder does not smoke as much as O'Donnell (which I have more experience with).

Is it possible that the recommended factory settings are too lean? The factory settings had my car running fine with plenty of power and smoke on throttle during break in. It did shut down a few times becoming hard to start; however, I found that blowing the pressure line pulled from the exhaust nipple...the car would start right up. So I cannot see how the car is starved, when I have the factory settings as the manual states.

I have been checking the glow plugs periodically and they are OK.

Are you getting air bubbles? Both my neighbor and I had problems with air bubbles. He bought a new tank and the problem was fixed.

I figured it out. I was not using the slack slot for the fuel line where the black shield is. The fuel tubing must have been sliding up off of the tank nipple. I do think it was running a little lean; however, I found the culprit and am not concerned. It happened and I learned.

I still cannot get over how nice this car is! This is definately a quality product that I think will be here for a while. The radio is a little intimidating if you are not familiar with computer radios.

running-in motors is a pain in the bud

as the xb8 drives almost like a mayhem
why not try their latest oil set-ups 5000/5000/5000/

perf-
Good to see you're running it in. It does take a little bit, but is worth it. Once you get 4-5 tanks in and start slowly leaning the HSN, this thing wakes right up. I'm probably less than 10 tanks through already and it's flying. I'm consisntently running at only 220F and it still screams. So much that those pin tires are chewing up the lawn. Took the next big step and brought out my 2' jump. This thing flies....literally. The last vehicle I learned to jump was my old T-Maxx and the Mayhem flies a lot further and a lot easier. Just remember to stay on the gas a bit. It likes to lawn dart if you let off. I haven't quiet gotten used to the radio yet. Haven't tinkered with the throttle deadband yet but am learning to use the brake setting (switch A) and steering dual rate (switch B) on the fly. There's just too much to fuss with sometimes. It's an incredible ride!

For Performula:
I wrestled with the break in mixture on mine also. Finally asked a fellow here at work who flys RC planes and helicopters to help. He immediately disgnosed it as a lean condition and we finally started break in with the HSN out 4.5 turns! A couple of tanks later, he noticed the backplate screws had backed out and thought this may have contributed to the lean condition. Tightened the screws and instantly ran smoother. I was not aware of how sensitive these little motort were to the smallest adjustments.

By the way, as suggested elsewhere on this thread, Frankie at Full Throttle Hobbies in SC has been really helpful. When a shop takes the time to call you about the details of a $60 order and offer you cost saving suggestions - that's great customer service! Likewise, Horizon Hobby was first class in their handling of a warranty issue. This car seems to have a great dealer support system. And that's whats important to all of us after the sale, right?

Finally, just a pat on the back to everyone I've read on this thread so far. There doesn't seem to be the smart alec comments, biased opinions, etc. as on so many others. Good info from people in sharing a good thing - this Mayhem! Keep up the good work . . .
Lee

I totally agree with you lcalton. This seems to be the best Thread on the forum!! I guess the car makes the people! haha Has anyone switched their rtr mayhem to start of a starter box? If so did you have to clearance the chassie for the starter wheel? I know you need to new pro mounts but I didn't know if the slot in the chassie was still to small or not.


ps here is some pics of the race this weekend, that is my mayhem out in front!

[link=http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL708/3454581/7098969/92923923.jpg]blue/gray race[/link]
[link=http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL708/3454581/7098969/92923933.jpg]close up[/link]

Need some help . . .
I'm replacing the spur gear. I have the center diff removed, the brake pads removed and that's where I'm stuck. Can't figure out how to get the brake rotor out of the way (can't get the rotor positioner off, the screw is unreachable) and then, after that, not really sure how to proceed. Maybe I'm headed in the wrong direction. If anyone can save me from a painful learning experience then speak right up!
Thx,
Lee

p.s. Of course the Mayhem is out front!!! Good pics . . .

Giles, where did you get the JP-1 pipe?

lcalton-

It sounds as if you've still got the center diff housing still on the center diff. You'll see the silver colored top plate and a set of 4 countersunk screws that are flush with the top of it. Those hold the top plate on. Then you'll see a set of 4 holes with screws recessed down below the top plate. Those are the 4 screws you'll need to remove to get the center diff out to change the spur gear. Anytime you want to make any changes to the center diff those are actually the only 4 screws you'll need to remove to get it out. You won't need to remove any screws from the bottom of the chassis and you won't need to remove the brake pads. You may need to remove throttle/brake linkages but outside of that you shouldn't need to remove anything else. I just had my center diff out last night, so it was still pretty fresh in my mind.

Once you've got the center diff completely removed from the housing then the brake rotors should just simply pull off of the center diff outdrives. They may get hung up a little on the very end of the outdrive but a quick tug and it will pop right off.

-RCT

lcalton,

I noticed you live in Trussville. I live in Shelby, near Lay lake. You should bring that buggy down to Wilsonville on Saturday nights(be there by 4:00) and race. If you need some directions, email me. By the way, it's fun racing no money or trophies. It cost $15 to race. We usually have 3 heat races and a main. There about 20-30 buggies on a given Saturday.

Performula I got the pipe off ebay from a guy that kindof has an online hobby shop on ebay. Do a search for cheap pipes and it should come up. I don't remember his name. Ok Lcalton, If you already have the center diff off the car then all you have to do is slide the two plastic bulkheads off the ends of the yokes. The brake rotors should come with them.

Sunday at Hardesty's 2005 season opener. Notice the nice mix of buggy manufacturers in this "A" Main.


-- 1/8 4x4 Gas Buggy - A Main --

Pos Car Laps time name

1 3 29 15:06.67 Derek Weatherholt Xray XB8

2 4 29 15:09.26 Sonny O TTR

3 2 28 15:12.66 Dave Mettetal 777

4 6 27 15:32.70 Lee Morrison Mayhem
5 8 25 15:03.05 Randy Jones X5 Prospec

6 0 14 7:35.70 Tim Evans Jammin

7 5 3 1:37.12 Chris Arnold 777

8 9 2 1:20.59 Jesse Wolkenhein Xray XB8

-- 7 --- DNS --- Fenton X5

-- 1 --- DNS --- Kevin Wilson OFNA

I have decided to sell my mayhem w/o the radio for those interested. It comes with two bodies, 5 sets of tires and wheels, swaybar bag, jp-1 pipe, .26 engine, mugen clutch and springs, factory clutch and springs, brand new set of pro engine mounts, and 3 bottles of diff oil. It also has the threaded preload adjusters. I will take 300 for it plus whatever shipping may be. Search my screen name for pics or go to www.picturetrail.com/kruck for pics.

If you dont find anyone to buy the mayhem, I could really use the pro motor mounts, mine are on back order from the hobby shop and I need them ASAP.

Let me know

I was thinking about trimming my stock RTR mounts tonight can anyone give me the measurements for the pro mounts? We have a dremel at my hobby shop and seeing as how my RTR mounts cant be used anymore I was thinking of trying to trim them. Also I have a set of mounts from a GS Storm that arent being used, with that fit onto my mayhem if I trim it as well. That way I can save the RTR mounts incase i need them down the road.

Thanks

Thx RC and Giles . . .
By the way, maybe everyone already knew this, but as recomended by Frankie at Full Throttle Hobbies, I used the Mugen MX clutch, springs, bearings and bell housing on the Mayhem when the Sportwerks were unavailable. It's good to have a list of alternative parts.
Lee

Triming the rtr mounts want work. You will have to wait and find some pro mounts. I don't know about any other brands. Measure the holes center to center on the bottom of the chassie and then go to the hobby shop and see what they have that will fit.