I haven't played RB b4 and have no idea how goodness RB conrod is. Experienced by other motors, it is most likely to replace the conrod after breaking-in. So, when should I probably replace the conrod? BTW, is there any better way to break-in my RB so it can be last longer? Thanks.

I know rb recomends replacing it after 1 1/2 gallons of hard running, so if you run it easy for the first couple of gallons should be ok. I know Im going to replace mine after 2 or 3 gs.

As far as breakin, im going to do what i always do.

idle for 2 or 3 tanks.
idle to 1/4 throttle for 2 or 3 tanks
idle to 1/2 throttle for a tank or two.
then ill start to lean it out, but ill keep it easy for the first gallon just to be safe
thats how Ive done all my engines and so far the only reason ive toasted and
engine was a piston skirt broke, dont know how but ofna warrented it so its new again. that was after 3 gallons on my 8p

i would replace it after breakin 1/4 of a gallon i now a mate with a ws7ii and he had his for a gallon and the pisston smashed the block. the intense pressure of breakin is crazzy because the rpm increases and adds alot of strin to the conrod.

i never change it until the 5 gal mark and have never had one go out. i think what helps is i heat the motor up before i run it every time(200deg) and it will take the stress off the conrod. its just a good habit to get in to. i know some of you will differ so dont start bashing my method- its just what works for me.

Sounds the breakin is not as easy and normal as other high end motor does[sm=confused.gif]. Are all RB .21 engines using the same conrod, or there is particular model for WS7II?

it is easy - i followed the manual- run at 1/4 throttle for 4 tanks on the ground in a big circle giving it short bursts to clean it out . then for 3 tanks run it at 1/2 throttle on the ground w/ short bursts. after that just run it and start leaning it out for performance. it works on all my motors and it makes sense. also run it on a flat surface so it dont stress the motor and heat it up to 200deg F. before you start it. this is what works for me but- people will tell you many other methods.

im with him, i know some say heat cycle.... but i heat mine up..... idle first tank, 2nd tank on the ground to keep heat in it, 3rd tank, start leaning still only short short bursts, 3rd, 1/2 throttle an a little more leaning, 5th start working on final tune....

always preheat your motor for at least the 1.5 gallon mark, you can get lazy after that, most im portant thing is to get that motor up to temp fast.
at the track i get mine started blip it a few times and feel the head, if its warm ill cruise around the track for a few laps, after like 2 i start hot lapping it.

i have broken in 2 motors this way and both are still alive at 5 gallons. the sportwerks will still push the sleeve up out of the case with the head off.... 4 gallons
and still has a little pinch!

im gonna breakin my rb sunday like this as well.

anyone who wants to get rid of their 1 gallon old rb rods, pleze contact me

Good to see an expert on here(slim) ! i would like those messed up rods too

there are many different methods of breakin thersew days some choose heat cycle some choose to idel some like me choose to brake there engines in at wot but rich as.

yea maxmod, i somewhat agree with break in like it is gonna be run....
but for most people that need to motors to last without risk, you do need to baby it for a few...

as long as you heat the motor up to 200 every time for the first gallon i dont see a point in replacing the rod,
it never hurts to inspect it to check for slop, and see from there, but i never have replaced one.

if you start cold and do heat cycles the yeah id replace it too.

But I worry about disaster happens likely after inspection coz I have no tools to calibrate precisely. Or if there is any sign that I should notice to foresee anything will go wrong?