I saw where someone took one of the silver shims out of their P5 and said it worked fine.there is 2 silver and 1 copper, has anyone done this? I was thinking of doing this and i just wanna make sure it will be fine. i run 20%maxys fuel. it has about 3 gals run on it. its the Novarossi TOP P5.


If you have anything you want to post about your P5 just use this thread.

i have just removed the copper one from my P5, i also replaced all the bearings and crank, got a lightened filled crank from a main hobbies.. the crank gives the car a different power band.. its more linear, the original crank i modded (along with the rest of the engine ) had way too much bottom end ... i was shredding clutch bells , tires were wearing out in one race .. it was mayhem !!

I also noticed the difference without the copper shim.. its got nice torque. more economical now too, i get up to 11 min on a tank in "semi serious" mode and about 9 min in "i wanna win" mode

also running a hyper front bearing and a boca ceraminc rear bearing.. very smooth !! the hyper front bearings are pretty good especially the ones with " made in Japan " written on them ...

Oh i forgot to tell you , i run the P5 with a hyper piston and rod .. stronger than the rossi ones ive found..

Wow,
is that all Dr. Frankenstien?
If I send you al my old stuff could you bring my old h21 back to live?

WOW holy massivemod[X(] great info man. i have a rex and top. the rex is still in the box. not for long though i just put some motor mounts on it - the top runs strong -just looking for that little extra. do you have a link to the crank and bearings? or some part #'s? thanks man ill put the silver one back in and take the copper shim out

Hyper- don't take the copper shims out of your motor. Massivemods is runn a frankenstein motor and may have had good luck with reducing deck height, but if you take out that copper shim on your P5- you will likely have detonation and experience the opposite of what massive mods is saying. You will have decreased fuel mileage along with detonation and eventually a ruined motor.

thanks SKY! you da man...

send me anything you like, id be happy to work on an engine for you scale !! especially if it means being a Frankenstein !! HA hahaahaaa !! Mwahha ahaha !!

actually taking the copper shim out is a common tuning tool.. its the thinnest shim on the engine and designed to be taken out if so desired. Id measure your crank pin if it comes in at about 5 to 5.1 mm then you are safe to do it, you rbearings need to be in good order too before playing with clearence..

You can get ceraminc hybrid bearings or normal ones from A Main Hobbies, www.amainhobbies.com really nice people , Skyline put me onto them..

I know messing with the head clearance is a common tuning tool. BUT reducing deck height doesnt increase fuel mileage, it reduces, and asks for detonation. Yes reducing a copper shim is good if your running a colder plug or lower nitro content fuel ie 20% but when running 30% and stock P5 the deck height is usually just right if not too low- when another thin copper shim could be called for.

the stock p-5 runs so good why mess with it?
FYI,
I have two freinds that bought the mod p5s from Nitrohouse, they were on sale a while back for around $300, I don't know who was doing the Mods, but they both broke right after break in,,,very strange. They sent them back so we'll see what nitrohouse does to make it right.

wow what broke on them ? was it the piston or rod ? .. When using a modded engine you need to use a different running procedure as they are high performance machine, they need different care procedure, most important long warm up periods.. and cool down 's as well..

Reducung clearance dosent reduce mileage. and detonation either premature or latent can be fixed with using the right plug. you can use 30% nitro , with the copper shim out and a medium plug with no hassles, you will get pre detonation if the sleeve is modded in which case you use a hotter plug.

Modding engines is a personal preferance, If done correctly will run better than a stock engine, better power, fuel economy and temps..

If I remember correctly the piston broke at the wrist pin.
I'll ask them tomorrow again

Which P5 do you guys think are better as far as durability and torque are concerned? Top or Rex.

they are both the same,,just different color heads

yeah i had 2 wrist pins go on me, they are really thin for an engine of such grunt, thats why i use a hyper 8 port Piston and rod, heavier cast.. i had 2 rossi pistons shatter at the wrist , then i popped a Hyper piston in and then the rossi rod split right down the middle, so i tried the rod from the hyper, and some 10 litres and 17 race meets later its still going strong !!

So you use the hyper sleeve too? or just piston and rod.

Just the Piston and rod..

Im just wondering what some base carb settings are for these engines ? I picked up a hotmods Top P5 , and have gotten through about 16 tanks, but im pretty sure I have lost myself with the tune. Im used to RB engines, and just am just looking for some base settings to work against. Im at about 3,000 ft in colorado, running novarossi #6 plugs, 30%fuel, 55-60F temperatures.

Ok well being high up you will have thinner air, but its cold being in colorado so there will be less humidity, hmm interesting... I would look at starting the motor, getting it warm , ie do at least 2 to 3 mins run time.. Pinch the fuel line to block fuel to the carb , right at where the tube meets the HSN. It should rev up just a little for about 2 to 3 seconds then die.. this is good bottom end tune, if it starts to rev really high for over 6 to 10 seconds its too rich, lean 1/8 at a time till its right , if your idle gets higher just work it with the idlescrew, then go to your top end needle, try to tune so that your temps stay at about 190 to 220.. Or so that the engine runs well with good smoke .. when its really cold you can use a sock over the head or alfoil..

ususal HSN settings are about 2 to 3 turns open, but that varys.. once its set you shouldnt have to play much with it..

well just got back from the track today and i had the copper shim out already and thought id run it to check it out. WOW[X(] ohh my god this thing ripped. you think a stock one flies just take the shim out and feel the punch. i ran 20% maxys and the RB6 plug. i wouldnt do this unless its already broke in. i had zero probs and temps stayed around 240. it raised the idle a bit and after i tamed that down it ran flawless!

Awesome !!! now all you need to do is have a look at your header, check to see if you have any lip inside the header , grind it out so its smooth. ie no corners for the exhaust to create circular currents.. you will get higher rpm and cooler temps

Ill check it out massive. i run the JP1 header and the 053 pipe. David Joor mentioned doing this to get the most out of it and it really helped. honestly there was not 1 bug that could stay w/ me on the straights.

I got a new Stock P5 (REX) with almost a gallon in it. Run 30% Odonnel, RB6 plug. Can i take out a copper shim and be ok? Or will i risk problems? My temps now are 220-240.

as long as its broke in i dont see a prob. really i didnt see that much of a diff w/30% . so i went back to the 20%. if it has flame outs then id go to the 20% mine was like a rocket.

Two things to check, bearings must be in good order , and the crank pin should measure around 5 mm ... if that checks out you are ready to go.. The higher nitro will mean typically cooler temps and better fuel times. IE longer run time...