We were driving on the track with my bro and even though it's not a hard track he lost his rear dogbone,i know they have much play on them but i didn't expect it to go off,we installed it again using fuel tube to put it tight and now it moves only if i squeeze it with my fingers on the small piece of tube.
Is it too tight or OK??
[Could it be because of better set of tires and more stress on the dogbones? He has just installed the medial pro pikes peak and traction was much improved!]

On my car now i managed to break the pull starter for 5th-6th time i can't remember, so i just plugged the hole and made my custom starter box using a motor from a radiator fan of a car(pictures soon when i make it more "decent"!
Started it up and by the end of the 2nd tank i noticed that one of the two o-rings on the spider diff was gone.But i didn't notice any leaks or anything,will it be ok or should i buy(and where?) a new o-ring?

Hey chris, apart from to say that there should be at least a tiny bit of sideways movement in the dogbones, I can't really help you out...I was wondering if you had any pics of the track though??

Hi J',
i have pictures and videos but i don't know how to copy them on the computer.My camcorder has two outputs,the DV and the round one with the 6-8 pins.Which one will go on the computer and where?
Do they sell a USB cable with one of this connectors?The camera didn't have any of these cables in it!!

As for the car,the dogbone won't move on it's own,only if i squeeze it on the fuel tube that i inserted in there!

The DV output should connect to a Firewire port on your PC (if it has one), the other one most likely is fo a Phono lead type cable, this will require a TV card or gfx card like the ATI All In Wonder range. Which camera model is it and did you receive any cables/CDs with it?


But as for the car, if your track is too wide it willl allow the bones to pop out at the extremes of suspension travel, the only way to stop it is to narrow the track by winding the pivot balls in more, when you compress the shock, the pins in the end of the bone should NOT leave the slots of the drive cups, also there should be about 3mm of movement when the bones are level.

U need a TV card, unless you can get the correct usb cable from the manufacturer of the camcorder...no scanner (to scan the piccies)?

There is no free movement only when i apply some light force on it, it moves siteways!
Should it move freely,as if i turn the car right-left the dogbones should fall from one site to the other?

As for the camera it's a canon mv600 with no cd's in it or any other cables except of the 3 color wire one that connects to the TV!

I have a scanner but prefer a more direct way and better image!

In my experience, they should have SOME (even if only a tiny bit) free movement, otherwise they bind and wear quickly and your car will not coast as smoothly. It is especially important that they have some movement on the front though, due to the movement during steering throw, I'm not sure how important it would be on 1/8th buggies, as I don't have mine yet, but I'm sure dogbone principles are the same, whatever the scale.

I'm gonna get one of those sony camcorders that write directly to a little cd or dvd, they look like they might make the whole pc thing rather easy. I'll bring it when I come to cyprus.