Stop from bottoming out?
#1
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From: APO, AE, KUWAIT
Hi all.
I been having trouble with my OFNA buggy bottoming out on our track out here in Kuwait. Attached is a picture of the bigger jump on the track which I have the most trouble with. I have big "spacers" on the shocks and was wondering if I should put more? Will it make any diffrence since it sits so low to the ground anyways. Also, if I do add more, I fear that I'm going to almost defeat the purpose of the shocks and end up bending them or something.
Anyways, thanks in advance for any help.
Chris
I been having trouble with my OFNA buggy bottoming out on our track out here in Kuwait. Attached is a picture of the bigger jump on the track which I have the most trouble with. I have big "spacers" on the shocks and was wondering if I should put more? Will it make any diffrence since it sits so low to the ground anyways. Also, if I do add more, I fear that I'm going to almost defeat the purpose of the shocks and end up bending them or something.
Anyways, thanks in advance for any help.
Chris
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From: chesterland,
OH
What OFNA shocks? fluid? springs? Try heavier shock fluid for starters, maybe stiffer springs if the problem persists. Remember...its ok for the suspension to bottom off the big hits, if it doesnt bottom out your not using all your suspension travel.
The preload spacers are used to set ride height... they do not increase the spring rate.
The preload spacers are used to set ride height... they do not increase the spring rate.
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From: Singapore, SINGAPORE
Well scrapheep had the solution..Chris
Stiffer Springs
and heavier fluids. Actually the ofna springs is not as bad as the mayhem.I have to replace the stock springs from the ones off my xtm.
Stiffer Springs
and heavier fluids. Actually the ofna springs is not as bad as the mayhem.I have to replace the stock springs from the ones off my xtm.
#4
Stiffer springs don't help much when it comes to bottoming out, setting the spring tension mostly raises or lowers the ride height.
Here is what you can do keep from bottoming out:
-Thicker shock oil
-More Droop (move your shocks to the lower holes in your shock towers, this will give some buggies more droop if their shocks were the limiting factor)
-Use shock pistons with smaller holes.
A combination of the above should fix your problem.
Here is what you can do keep from bottoming out:
-Thicker shock oil
-More Droop (move your shocks to the lower holes in your shock towers, this will give some buggies more droop if their shocks were the limiting factor)
-Use shock pistons with smaller holes.
A combination of the above should fix your problem.
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From: Banbury, UNITED KINGDOM
with an old rc car i took the springs off and stretched them. this made them seem stiffer and gave a higher ride height. anyone know if this was a good idea or not. didnt seem no do the springs any harm
#6
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From: KEWANEE,
IL
the only prob w/ that is it changes each one diff so they wont be consistant and the same. as for the other Q: the white springs are the stiffest and work well. you can change the shock position so its as straight up and down as you can get it. i run 50wt in front and 35 in the rear & 1.5 2 hole pistons on almost all the tracks i run at. like stated you are going to bottom out , dont set it too stiff cause you will have trouble on the rest of the track. it will be unstable and want to roll on its lid all the time. on that big jump try to tap your brake so you land on the front wheels a little before the rear ones so you dont get that "smack" in the rear.
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From: Sanford,
NC
Move the shocks all the way to the last hole on the lower a-arms. Then use the hole on the shock tower wich stands them as straight up as possible! Use thick shock oil and a stiffer spring. But like the rest have said you are going to bottom out, the best thing to do is get throttle control and get to where you can land the jumps on the down ramps. Not only does this save your chassie but it will make you faster. Slow down your approach to the jumps if you are overshooting them.
#8
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From: Northants, UNITED KINGDOM
If you are bottoming out you need to increase the "pack" that your shocks provide...
Pack is created by turbulence in the shock absorber fluid, so to keep your damping similar to what you have now the correct way to increase pack is to use pistons with smaller holes and thinner shock oil...
Merely changing to thicker shock oil will make the buggy nasty on bumpy sections... try 1-1.2mm holes in the pistons and 30 front 25 rear shock oil...

Heres the techy stuff for those interested
Pack is created by turbulence in the shock absorber fluid, so to keep your damping similar to what you have now the correct way to increase pack is to use pistons with smaller holes and thinner shock oil...
Merely changing to thicker shock oil will make the buggy nasty on bumpy sections... try 1-1.2mm holes in the pistons and 30 front 25 rear shock oil...

Heres the techy stuff for those interested

Consider a typical R/C damper unit: you have oil of a certain viscosity passing through orifices of a certain diameter at a certain speed. Some oil flows around the outside of the piston, this is almost always laminar, since the gap between the piston and the housing is so narrow, so it creates a lot of drag. For the oil flowing through the holes in the piston however, it's hard to predict. When the shaft speed is very low it will be laminar, and when it's high it will be turbulent. Exactly when the transition will happen is hard to predict, but easy to feel: because the resistance of the shock is proportional to the shaft speed when the flow is still laminar, and proportional to the shaft speed squared the very next moment, when the flow has turned turbulent, it feels like a kind of hydraulic lock has occurred because the difference in resistance is usually quite substantial. The transition is sometimes also described as 'pack'; it feels as if the shock 'packs up'.
This effect can both be useful and unwanted: it can prevent your car from slapping the ground when landing from a jump, but it can also make your car bounce very badly over sharp ruts or bumps taken at high speed. So it's pretty important to get this adjustment right.
The way to achieve this is to select the right piston and shock oil: both the combination of a piston with small holes and a low viscosity oil and the combination of a piston with large holes and a high viscosity oil will yield the same static damping; it will feel the same when you bump your car by hand. It will also make the car handle the same in low-speed transitions, such as smooth cornering and low-frequency bumps. But the real difference is in the high-speed damping: the first combination will pack up very rapidly because of the low viscosity fluid and the increased fluid velocity. (the same amount of oil has to pass through smaller holes in the same amount of time, so its speed must be higher) The second combination will have a relatively high resistance to turbulence, because of the very thick fluid which flows at a much lower speed. Hence, turbulence will occur at much higher shaft speeds, or it may not occur at all.
This effect can both be useful and unwanted: it can prevent your car from slapping the ground when landing from a jump, but it can also make your car bounce very badly over sharp ruts or bumps taken at high speed. So it's pretty important to get this adjustment right.
The way to achieve this is to select the right piston and shock oil: both the combination of a piston with small holes and a low viscosity oil and the combination of a piston with large holes and a high viscosity oil will yield the same static damping; it will feel the same when you bump your car by hand. It will also make the car handle the same in low-speed transitions, such as smooth cornering and low-frequency bumps. But the real difference is in the high-speed damping: the first combination will pack up very rapidly because of the low viscosity fluid and the increased fluid velocity. (the same amount of oil has to pass through smaller holes in the same amount of time, so its speed must be higher) The second combination will have a relatively high resistance to turbulence, because of the very thick fluid which flows at a much lower speed. Hence, turbulence will occur at much higher shaft speeds, or it may not occur at all.
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From: chesterland,
OH
R/C GEEK ALERT !!!!!! LMAO
So so true

After reading that and having it make sense...OH NO[X(][X(][X(] I MUST BE A RC GEEK TOO[X(][X(][X(]
#12
ME 3, I WENT TO THE TRACK WITH MY XTERM FOR THE FIRST TIME AND I SMOKED EVERY ONE ON THE TRACK INCLUDING THE INFERNOS AND MOST. I KNOW MINES NOT THE FASTEST BUT IT SURE HAULS. I HAVE A 18CB INSTED OF A 14CB NOW AND A SH28 WITHA COUPLE CARBON FIBER UPGRADES ON IT. MINE DOES ACTULLY KICK ASS. IT KEPT BOTTOMING OUT WHEN I LANDED FLAT BUT I LOADED MY SHOCKS WITH 80WT OIL IN THE BACK AND 100WT IN THE FRONT, WHAT WAS I THINKING AND IT WAS TO MUCH OIL IN IT.
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From: Northants, UNITED KINGDOM

There is one other thing you can do, that is to add bump stops to the shocks...
A small piece of fuel tube on each shock shaft (5mm long) will act as a bump stop for the shock...
Hoever this will restrict the overall shock travel in some instances



