PMB setup system brilliant AND cheap
#1
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From: Boras, SWEDEN
Hi again everyone its been a long time since i started a thread here mainly cus i have been busy with school (and of course RC) [8D]
So the season started a few weeks ago and everything has went fine, im on the hunt for the perfect setup right now so i decided to get a setup system.
I asked at the LHS what the Hudy system would cost me and man it was expensive [X(]
So i spoke to my friend JJsson and a few moments later we had 2 PMB setup systems on order.
It took them about 3 days to get here (from somewhere in hong Kong i believe) and i met Jont to get mine today.
Back home i instantly started to put it together, it went together nicely and i did a few settings.
Its one nice setup system and about 3 times cheaper than the Hudy one!!
So well see how the buggy does at the track next time.
Regards to JJsson who was kind enough to order one for me cya at the track m8!
Here are some pics of the system with the car in it. Ow and it came in a nice textile package kudos to PMB for an excellent product!
And YEA i havent missed all the dirt which is attached as glue to my car [:-]
So the season started a few weeks ago and everything has went fine, im on the hunt for the perfect setup right now so i decided to get a setup system.
I asked at the LHS what the Hudy system would cost me and man it was expensive [X(]
So i spoke to my friend JJsson and a few moments later we had 2 PMB setup systems on order.
It took them about 3 days to get here (from somewhere in hong Kong i believe) and i met Jont to get mine today.
Back home i instantly started to put it together, it went together nicely and i did a few settings.
Its one nice setup system and about 3 times cheaper than the Hudy one!!
So well see how the buggy does at the track next time.
Regards to JJsson who was kind enough to order one for me cya at the track m8!
Here are some pics of the system with the car in it. Ow and it came in a nice textile package kudos to PMB for an excellent product!
And YEA i havent missed all the dirt which is attached as glue to my car [:-]
#2
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From: Barnsley, UNITED KINGDOM
I've got one too and whilst its great for setting the camber I'm not entirely convinced with the toe plate, that markings don't seem to line up correctly.
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From: Boras, SWEDEN
Yea i thought that the plate was wrong at first too, but then i saw in the manual that you are supposed tp slide it to the side that you are measuring so you have to measure each side seperately This is due to that the system is designed to fit many different buggies and some may be wider.
So read the manual and you will see that you are supposed to slide it to the side you are going to measure.
So read the manual and you will see that you are supposed to slide it to the side you are going to measure.
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From: Barnsley, UNITED KINGDOM
I've read the instructions, my concern though is that instead of lining up at the zero degree mark its actually 1 or so mm past it.
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From: Boras, SWEDEN
I've read the instructions, my concern though is that instead of lining up at the zero degree mark its actually 1 or so mm past it.
But still, the problem you are describing is weird are you saying that when the wheels are totally straight it isnt at the 0 mark but still straight?
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From: Sweden
There seem to be some quality problems.
MadManiac got a bad cut.
I got a short screw and a bad bushing (it just needed some work of the dremel)
MadManiac got a bad cut.
I got a short screw and a bad bushing (it just needed some work of the dremel)
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From: lake city,
FL
not sure, but is your adjustable wing mount backward? it looks like the adjustment holes are in the front? just something i noticed....
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From: Boras, SWEDEN
OMG are you hiding somewhere in my house!!??? i did just correct that!! i must have put it wrong since last time i cleaned it but i did just notice that.
man Where are ya hiding!? in the sauna!? Mohahaha i just locked it up you cant escape now!
man Where are ya hiding!? in the sauna!? Mohahaha i just locked it up you cant escape now!
#11
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From: Barnsley, UNITED KINGDOM
ORIGINAL: madmaniac
Hmmm thats strange mine does line up perfectly at the 0 degree mark when it is straight and i did change it so that it had 1 degree toe out which should do.
But still, the problem you are describing is weird are you saying that when the wheels are totally straight it isnt at the 0 mark but still straight?
I've read the instructions, my concern though is that instead of lining up at the zero degree mark its actually 1 or so mm past it.
But still, the problem you are describing is weird are you saying that when the wheels are totally straight it isnt at the 0 mark but still straight?
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From: Capital FederalBuenos Aires, ARGENTINA
Hi, Let me introduce myself, my name is Pablo M. Batalla, I'm the Owner of PMB RC Racing Products. I normally visit some RC related forums to see what is the most important for me "Your Comments", I have found your comments very glad so I decided to add my reply, I really know what the feeling is when you buy a product, you have expectations and illusions about it. I was an RC racer and I really know how expensive is this wonderful hobby for this reason I decided some few years ago to found a RC Company focused in affordable products for everyone not just for few.
Please I'll be very glad to hear your individuals comments about our range of products and I personally will take care of your issues, so please feel free to write me with your sincerely comments using my email address [email protected], as you can see I'm very interested on what do you think about our products.
One more time many thanks for your comments!.
Waiting to hear from you again very soon, sincerely.
PMB.
Please I'll be very glad to hear your individuals comments about our range of products and I personally will take care of your issues, so please feel free to write me with your sincerely comments using my email address [email protected], as you can see I'm very interested on what do you think about our products.
One more time many thanks for your comments!.
Waiting to hear from you again very soon, sincerely.
PMB.
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From: St. Charles, IL
PMB
I cannot get your link to work.
What I would like to see, is a set up station wide enough (toe plate) to fit todays popular racing truggies. Like the hotbodies lsp and some of theothers. This is a fast growing class with alot of factory drivers getting in to it, it is just a shame I can not use my 1/8th scale set up board.
I think alot of people would purchase these. just because they are bought solely for racing.
I cannot get your link to work.
What I would like to see, is a set up station wide enough (toe plate) to fit todays popular racing truggies. Like the hotbodies lsp and some of theothers. This is a fast growing class with alot of factory drivers getting in to it, it is just a shame I can not use my 1/8th scale set up board.
I think alot of people would purchase these. just because they are bought solely for racing.
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From: , MA
Cemeb, uhmm his email address is there..you can read it even if the link doesnt work
. This setup system looks nice, I might be ready to try something like this out instead of eyeballing it if the price is right. Whats the MSRP on this thing and what online retailers are selling it?
. This setup system looks nice, I might be ready to try something like this out instead of eyeballing it if the price is right. Whats the MSRP on this thing and what online retailers are selling it?
#17
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From: San Francisco,
CA
so how are you supposed to meause toe on the pmb set up system. i ordered one and threw the directions away. i understand the camber and caster gauges, but how is the toe supposed to work. thanks.
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From: San Francisco,
CA
someone must know the correct way to measure toe on this system. the way i'm doing it says i have 1 degree rear toe in but it looks more like 5 degrees to me. i must be reading it wrong... HELP!
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
Set the tow gauge on top of the uprights, and focus on one side of the car. Slide the gauge to that side, until the pin that sticks up from the uprights bottoms out against the side of the slot in the tow gauge. Keep it pressed against that pin and make your adjustments.
When you want to make adjustments to the other side, slide the gauge to the other side of the car until the pin bottoms out at the end of the slot as above.
One thing I have noticed that helps with reading the markings on this gauge is to view the plates from an upward angle. This makes the degree sight lines look shorter, and are easier to line up with the indicator.
When you want to make adjustments to the other side, slide the gauge to the other side of the car until the pin bottoms out at the end of the slot as above.
One thing I have noticed that helps with reading the markings on this gauge is to view the plates from an upward angle. This makes the degree sight lines look shorter, and are easier to line up with the indicator.
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From: San Francisco,
CA
ORIGINAL: kx250ryder
Set the tow gauge on top of the uprights, and focus on one side of the car. Slide the gauge to that side, until the pin that sticks up from the uprights bottoms out against the side of the slot in the tow gauge. Keep it pressed against that pin and make your adjustments.
Set the tow gauge on top of the uprights, and focus on one side of the car. Slide the gauge to that side, until the pin that sticks up from the uprights bottoms out against the side of the slot in the tow gauge. Keep it pressed against that pin and make your adjustments.
when i slide the top plate all the way to one side and it hits the uprights, the gauge already reads 1degree or so. is it supposed to line up exactly with the 0degree mark? or do i just slide the top plate until it reads "zero degree on my model" and continue from there?
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From: Oxford, MS
If you slide all the way one way and it reads 1 degree or what ever it reads , it means you already have that amount of toe in that tire
.
Chaxd
. Chaxd
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From: San Francisco,
CA
maybe i didnt make myself clear. ahem....
when i slide the toe plate all the way over to one side the line is parallel to the zero degree hash mark, but it sits offset about 1mm to the side. i would be able to tell if that side already had one degree of toe by looking at whether or not the line on the base runs parallel or not to the degrees of toe marked on the top plate. in my case the line is clearly parallel to the zero degree mark on the top plate, not just offset or angled one degree. i hope this helps to clear up some of the confusion concerning my dilemma.
when i slide the toe plate all the way over to one side the line is parallel to the zero degree hash mark, but it sits offset about 1mm to the side. i would be able to tell if that side already had one degree of toe by looking at whether or not the line on the base runs parallel or not to the degrees of toe marked on the top plate. in my case the line is clearly parallel to the zero degree mark on the top plate, not just offset or angled one degree. i hope this helps to clear up some of the confusion concerning my dilemma.
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From: Queen Creek,
AZ
Take your scale, and transpose it left to right so that you are using the opposite side (numbers will be backwards). By this I mean make sure that if you were using the left side grid of numbers, that now you are using the right side numbers (that will likely be mirror image since you will be looking through the plastic to etching on the opposite side).
This should eliminate any chance for machining errors. If it still reads 1 degree, then you probably have 1 degree of tow. If it reads zero, then you probably have a improperly manufactured scale.
This should eliminate any chance for machining errors. If it still reads 1 degree, then you probably have 1 degree of tow. If it reads zero, then you probably have a improperly manufactured scale.
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From: San Francisco,
CA
ORIGINAL: kx250ryder
Take your scale, and transpose it left to right so that you are using the opposite side (numbers will be backwards). By this I mean make sure that if you were using the left side grid of numbers, that now you are using the right side numbers (that will likely be mirror image since you will be looking through the plastic to etching on the opposite side).
This should eliminate any chance for machining errors. If it still reads 1 degree, then you probably have 1 degree of tow. If it reads zero, then you probably have a improperly manufactured scale.
Take your scale, and transpose it left to right so that you are using the opposite side (numbers will be backwards). By this I mean make sure that if you were using the left side grid of numbers, that now you are using the right side numbers (that will likely be mirror image since you will be looking through the plastic to etching on the opposite side).
This should eliminate any chance for machining errors. If it still reads 1 degree, then you probably have 1 degree of tow. If it reads zero, then you probably have a improperly manufactured scale.


