Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

went to run the first tank through tonight and everything started fine etc... but breakin temps were like 280-300 i know this is really high for breakin could this have messed anything up? the manual says to run it 3 turns from closed for rich breakin maybe this wasnt enough? im gonna try 4 turns and see if that helps! what could be causing the high temps?

EB4man

what are you using to check your temp.?

Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

this, works fine on my savage i get temps of 260 max

EB4man

I don't know what that is because I cant see the picture.... 260 is even a little high...you should try to get down to 230- 240.. you want 200-220 for break-in....but what do I know...I never temp my engines.. go the 4 like I said to start in your other post and see what happens...I temped my engine during break-in and that was it. I have a 600.00 multimeter that reads temps with a probe that I don't even use. When you temp the engine...it just makes you worry all the time what its running....

ThAtSgOtTaHuRt

My Feedback: (8)

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RICHEN THE HSN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Breakin settings should be REALLY RICH. Even if the manual says 3½ turns out it may not be right for your current conditions. Richening the carb settings will greatly have an cooling effect on your engine temps - plus it will also break in your engine correctly without damaging anything - which you could be doing right now by running it with your current carb settings since your getting temps of 280+

Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

well i only ran half a tank like that so hopefully nothing got messed up tomorrow ill be sure to richen it

Super_Dave

What rpm were you running it at?

Korn9898

My Feedback: (2)

was just running idle

Super_Dave

Richen the low speed needle. Running half a tank like that shouldn't have done to much damage. You do want oil from the fuel to be coming out of the pipe and keep it at a low idle. 200-220 degrees is a good temp to break in at if it goes a little higher richen the lsn just a touch more and see what the temp drops to. You cannot judge idling with the high speed needle. The hsn controls in total how much fuel enters the carb so it only comes in after about 1/4 throttle. Anything before that the low speed needle is controling how much fuel flow goes into the motor. If the hsn is to lean however then you wont be getting any fuel because like I said it controls how much fuel is going into the carb. If you take a closer look at your carb you'll see how it works and just see how the fuel travels through it.

Da Smak

If the temps hit that high on a first run after you've fiddled with the needles, is it possible that you may have wound the needles out 3 1/2 turns but in fact only managed 1 3/4 as you may have not turned it 360' for each turn.

This would leave the HSN and LSN lean meaning you'd close the carb up to get Idle, also raisng temps.

Other possibility is an air leak. Check all the screws are tight and that the carb is sat right down in the block. After that ensure the bellow isn't torn.

Also ensure the emisivity is set correctly on your temp gun and that you are using it correctly. To be certain you could always use the spit test. If it bubble and boils away gently it's all fine, if it evaporates IMMEDIATLY then stop the mill and check it over again.

A mill at factory settings, during break in will rarely hit over 160' F just sitting at idle.

MassiveMods

Emmisivity is the ability of an alloy or material to dissipate heat. You cant set emmisivity on a temp gun... Where do you get your info Grandma A ?
The temp unit shown in the pic and indeed most avalable are out by anywhere from 2 to 25 deg c . First and foremost get readings from the side of the block just under the head. secondly you have to look at your fuel.. what brand is it ? percentage oil ? type of nitro ect.. The wrong type of fuel will give you up to 60 Deg C difference in tems alone.. The only decent and affordable temp gun is the RayTec mini temp.. its expensive but its at least accurate.

As far as running an engine rich and cool for the first few tanks , that is a sure fire way to damage an engine. A new engine needs to get heat into it immediately, operating temp say 100deg c approx. + - 5 deg. for 3 mins to allow the engine to expand and set, then let it cool with the piston at BDC, repeat this for 2 tanks, then run the engine at full throttle with very rich settings for one tank. Then you are ready to tune it up over the next litre of fuel..

Graham did touch on something although in his usual fasion "assumptive" Did you turn the HSn 360deg to one turn ?