Rocket in a can my friend. Rocket in a can...[>:]

have seen any info on that motor from people who know yet?, if not let us know once you given it ago.

i've been thinking about that motor, the nonarossi plus 5 (or what ever the new ones called) the p5x the hot mod versions of the novarossis and also thinking about chating to massive mods about the one hes always talking about.

jjjeeefffff- P5's are great-mod p5's are sick----We have a young driver that is spons. by O'Donnell and Panther---His dad does all the work and they run both 1/8 and unlim mon-His dad is a good solid tuner and swears by the modded p5's. I went with the C5 because of my driving style-I'm not a great driver but I can handle and like to have tons of nut and a screaming top end--I run a 1/10 losi AD2 with a .12 Team orion wasp that I did some mod work to(I opened up the intacts and vampire fanged them then I pollished the crank---That motor is ^&&%^$%$$ Rocket---No-bull#$$%% I run it with 1/8 in practice---no sweat and the motor runs 185-210 tops---best motor I've ever had and I have 7 gallons on it!!!

the spacer will certainly help things here but from what i've been told by people who run the OS the rod only moves out towards the backplate once the crank starts wearing down! if the engines were made wrong this would happen straight away, not after a while!

i'd still like some feedback from somebody who's used one with a hardcoated crank to see how long that lasted [:-]

showtime-
When the front bearing went at 1/2-1/3 gallon the backplate and rod was grinding at the time on my v-spec-----------the best case senerio for O.S. according to what you heard O.S. state would be then that the crank would have to be replaced every time befor the 1/2-1/3 gallon mark. That would be even worse!!!. I smell #$%%%$$ from O.S. They are going to do or say whatever they can to cover up that defect!!!

Of course there are the 1000s of people who have had no problems at all with their V-spec. It's weird isn't it? I actually threw some Boca bearings in mine at the end of the season tear down and inspection but now I wish I hadn't. I did it based on all the crap I've read on forums. Now I'm thinking I should have left a perfectly running (with a little over 2 gallons) engine alone. Based on all the issues people are reporting I'm curious to see what happens when I fire it back up. I know when I pulled it out it had all the power I could use on our track, was dead reliable, and looked like new internally. If it does all of a sudden develop a problem, mabey the aftermarket bearings are speced wrong?

Mine had problems between the first 1/2 gallon-1/3 gallon. I wanted to get rid of it then, but alot of people posted that it was a great motor and that it was worth the time and money to fix it!!! I wish I would have used it as a paper weight now!!!

i did har today from a reliable source that the issue described may be due to the rear bearing not being fully inserted in the factory!
that would certainly explain the problems in new engines, it would take a while to wear the crank that much!
maybew there is a quality control issue after all? [:-]

The bearing could be a problem but you would think the flywheel-nut would pull it in?

it would do if the casing was hot & the bearing was cold when you tightened it up!

might be worth checking for this if you have a new V-spec though

I'll have to wait and see what OS does.

well, every block does say "made in japan"... and OS engines are made by Toki aren't they? That also explains a lot.

OS engines are NOT made by toki where ever you got that from Os has been around about twenty(or more) years longer.The only common connection is there both built in japan.

I have 3 V-spec's. They haul arse. I only race them. I have have rebuilt them all. They all ran several gallons through them before rebuild's. The rebuild's were caused by mistake's made by me. I ran one at 300 degree's all weekend, and ingested dirt in the other 2 before I rebuilt them.
Rebuilt 1 with boca bearing's ceramic hybrid's and a new piston & sleeve. I ran the old rod, and crank. I Just tore it down after a few of weekend's racing. With practice, heats and mains it probably has a gallon through it since rebuild. It has run perfect since rebuild. I pulled it apart to do some inspection. I found some small pieces of metal on top of the piston and the rod was shot.
Rebuilt 1 with piston & sleeve crank and rod in. It just ate a rod. Found similar metal on top of piston. It has run perfect since rebuild.
Rebuilt the other with just piston and sleeve. I haven't done an inspection on it yet. It has run perfect since rebuild.
The rods that are shot are flat on the side toward the back plate. The new rod is not. I will mic. them and see what the difference is. I might try shiming the top of the rod this time.

i just had a a thought about shimming the top part of the rod & a possiblr problem!
what would be the best thing to use for that as anything you add to the wristpin is increasing the rotating mass and this is NEVER a good thing in a high revving engine [:'(]

Some guy try'd to get me to order Fantom engines saying they were made at the same factory as OS, Toki. Along with many OTHER terrible engine companies provided by Toki. Not many companies are with Toki anymore. Glad to see they got smart.

JUst a question does the OS RG Sport (P) have the same problem with it rubbing on the backplate??

nope, for some reason just the NEW high performance engines do.

found this nice view inside a V-spec online earlier [:'(]

showtime-do you have any more info on what happened to that motor?

no sorry it was just a picture posted in a blown engine thread somewhere with no accompanying text [:'(]
it looks like every V-spec i ever saw with a popped rod though, some of the ones i seen go went on a runaway, others out on the track! they all pretty much looked similar to that one though with the bottom broke off the rod [:'(]
when the old Rosi Blackmagics used to go they broke the rod at the top near the wristpin & nearly always punched a hole through the casing! Now thats a blown engine LOL

Showtime-

I see alot of guys that have their motors pinched with blown rods.

I measured the wore out rod's and they are all a little different in width at the big end. They range from 4.86mm to 4.9mm. As soon as the new rods come in I will measure them. What does anyone think about taking some metal off the side of the rod that face's the backplate?

you shouldn't need to, i recommend refitting the bearings to make sure they are well seated before undertaking any kind of machining work on the internals!
apparently this is caused by badly seated bearings!

I have already made sure the bearing's are fully seated. I took some additional measurements and the end of the pin on the crankshaft is about .0002 from the back plate. So I think that means that the rod is not sitting on the the crank pin fully. I all so measured the diameter of the big end of the wore out rods and they are all oblong by a couple of 1000's. Maybe a shim on the small end of the rod is the answer.