Hey guys,

I'm new to the world of 1/8 buggies. I got my first taste when I got into a used XTM X-Terminator. Now that I look back, I probably paid too much for it, especially since I had to turn around a week later and buy a new engine for it.

Anyway, I got the O.S. RG with the pull start. It is a very nice engine. Runs strong and is easy to tune.

Since then, I've been looking around for other engines, because I would like to start racing on the local level. What I need is some information on engines. Just keep in mind that I'm not interested in the ultra expensive Italian jobs. For that matter, I don't want to spend over $200 and would really like to stay in the $150 range. I'll never be on the pro level and my local track is really tight with only one straight about 100' long. Besides, in my mind, if I'm going to spend over $200 on an engine, I could just as easily buy another buggy. There's lots to be had on the used market.

Anyway, I'd like to know about .21 engines from manufacturers such as SH, STS, etc. What I'm looking for is something dependable and easy to tune. Maybe even something that could be inexpensive to rebuild. I'd also be interested in runtimes. I've been amazed (coming from electrics) at the short runtime that you get on a tank of fuel. My electric will go for over half an hour on a charge and it's a beast.

Thanks,
Tony

Honestly...... stick with the RG but change to a bump start version. It holds its own on a short tight track.

Play with pipe and gear combos. Get a JP1 + JP2 pipe and a 13 and 14 tooth clutch bell and test the 4 combinations you can get.

JP-1 + 13 tooth for super bottom end
JP-2 + 14 tooth for longer sweeping tracks

The combos in between for just that... in between tracks.

Sounds like your track would be great for a JP-2 + 13 tooth combo.

Why do you recommend the bump start version? I always wondered if the pull starter affected performance much. The O.S. starts so easily that the pull starter is just the easiest way to go.

Because I think pull starts are junk.
With a bump start you have so many more choices. Pull starts also rob power.

yea but with a pull start the only thing you have to lug around is the little glow heater, and that fits in your pocket!

RiverRat
IT just depends on the application you are using it for. On a highly competitive level you are gonna want an engine that will more thatn likly ONLY use a starter box. But as you pointed out pull starts might be easier to use but like mentioned earlier pull starts rob power, break, and add weight to you buggy. Just something to consider.

I spent considerable effort to get an RG X (pull start) on my buggy. I had to buy a manifold for my pipe, space up the engine so it would fit and make a bracket for the exhaust to stop it melting my tank! Yes it cost more than a non pull start, and may weigh a few grams extra, BUT I'm glad I did it. I am very happy with how it turned out and it starts first or second tug on the string. If you like pull starts and can't be bothered with lugging a starter box about its a very good choice of engine. Just my 2 pennies worth!

Yup it's all well, until suddenly your one-way bearing expires, your engine leaks through the pullstart, the cord just won't go back in.
It's one of those things that when you're finally over them you wonder how you endured them that long in the first place...

Edit: From the same page:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4085265/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4021317/tm.htm

Yea im strictly a basher and i do agree pull starts are a problem some times but when they work ill take them over a starter box any day at least for my x-terminator but i guess my ofna would be ok since it never dies untill the gas is gone it definatly depends on what your doin i agree.

Tony,

Taiwanese engine like SH & STS is certainly the low cost engine. If you really want to give it a try, I suggest the STS which is comparatively more reliable. Two things you need to take care are about the main bearing which tends to fail at 4th gallon mark, and head shim comes with the engine more than enough for 30% nitro that you need to adjust according to the instruction carefully. There were 4 D21T being tested at our track. The performance could be benched mark as P5 and tuning was without any problem.

You should just stick with the O.S. RG untill you run the life out of it. I'd sujest the mach .26 (if you can run .26 engines) or the sportwerks .21 (but you might need to get a starter box for it... the SW .26 pull start might work).

I raced through 4 mach .26 engines and have won quite a few races with them. Very easy to tune and they hold it well and all of them lasted between 5-7 gallons running a little lean. Very linear power so you get good bottom end power for those tight corners and pleanty of rpms for a short 100 ft straight away (but what nitro engine wouldn't [sm=tongue.gif]). For only $140 its a great buy and I loved mine.

Right now I'm racing the Sportwerks .21 for $180. TONS of bottom end power so you will need some good throttle control and raise your gearing a little. The RPMs tack up very fast and it has a fairly high max RPM so you get more MPH. Running a 14t clutch bell gear on my MP777 with this engine it still has more RPMs left in it at the top of our 135ft back straight away. This engine is perfect for tight tracks and I can promise you it will keep up with or beat any engine on your track because those high dollar engines just don't have the room the stretch their legs. Its very easy to tune and holds a tune better then any engine I've ran. I ran it in 40 degree weather and in 65 degree weather... only needed to richen it up 1/16 of a turn in the 40 degree weather and it ran just like it did when it was 65 out.

if you race you need to use motors designed for starter boxes not pull starts. Yes pull starts and roto starts are easier than a Starter box. The engines are different. the RG's made for starter boxes have a little more compression and are more reliable. You wont find many competitive 21 racers using pull starters.

No the compresion ratio is the same. In fact everything is identical between the pull start and starter box version.

the compression Ratio is the same but in reality you will probably get higher cylider pressure with a non pull-start engine once you factor out losing crankcase compression through the one-way bearing

bump start all the way

I'm running a Sportwerks .26 in my new Mayhem right now. When just bashing around, with my son running the X-Term with the RG, I can see that the .26 has more power. My only problem with it is that when trying to break it in, I started with the settings stated in the manual. HSN 3.5 out and LSN 2 out. I couldn't get it to do anything right. It wouldn't start. When it did start, it wouldn't idle right, going REALLY lean and screaming.

In the end, I got back to basics and blew off the manual. I opened her up really rich on both needles. 4 out on the high side and 3 out on the low side. In the end, I'm running about 3 turns out on the high side and 3 turns out on the low side. On the LSN, three turns out appears to be boarder line too lean. Either there is something wrong with my carb, or SW screwed the pooch on the manual.

Anyway, the .26 is running strong now and I like it.

On the other hand, the RG still starts on the first or second pull and has more than enough power for a tight track. I like 'em both. I'm thinking that when I rebuild the RG, I'll send it out to Dadders.net and have it worked on. Then I'll have a nice .21 engine that is reliable for under $200 that should be a screamer.