Tree1

The black head Go Tech is a 5 port mill modified by EB Mods. It has yet to be releassed in the U.S. Don't quote me on this but I believ that the EB Modded Go Tech is going to be released for sale within the next month or two for around $300.00. Those who have ran the mill are comparing it to an OS Speed.

The Stock needle settings for a Go Tech race engine is:
HSN Flush
LSN 1-1.5 in from Flush
Idle Gap 0.7-1.0mm

JamieKerr

Thanks alot man.. Appreciate it!

jnc011994

Hello guys,

need some tip. I have already done with tuning the engine, using GO 0801 pipe, inferno us sport rtr is now very snappy on the trigger with no hesitation. Now, my problem is engine sometimes dies, especially in the 1 hour A-Main? what could be the cause?

thanks,

Tree1

What plug are you using? I have had no issues with my eingines using the OS P3

jnc011994

Hello Tree,

I'm using the OS standard plug, P3 i think, and after the 1 hour race, i did check the plug, and it still look great and i again start the engine and it start with 1 click. I don't have a temp gun to test during the race. It might be that the engine's "too hot". I was thinking of richening the engine, would i richen the high end or the low end?

Thanks,
Jojo

stz28

If you need to richen it, you do so by opening up the high end. Do it in small amounts...one hour at a time.

However, my Go engine runs "hot as hell" and I don't worry about it anymore. It runs best at 285 (compared to the Mach 427 on my LST2 that stays around 230).

Hope this helps.

*FULL-REVS*

also try tuning when the tank is half full..... thats when the fuel tanks pressure is at its best... these motors can be quite fussy to get a really good tune on to... once im in the ball park i tune in half hour increments to get it spot on....

jnc011994

Thanks for the info Rev, will try to tune at half the tank... is it the same like in a 1 hour race?

*FULL-REVS*

i see you run a cen to awsome [8D] what i do is run it on the richer side till about half tank by then should be making good temp as well.... i tune the HSN neddle first and i will adjust it at a hour at a time till its making awsome power and sounds nice and crisp then i go to the LSN (some times top the tank up to half again) i usually do the LSN in half hour adjustments as my go's seem to be real fussy on the bottom end.... when i think its right ill run a entire lap before adjusting it again then only ever in half hour adjustments... still only topping the tank up to half.... then what i find in my mains is that i need to really make sure im up to temp and clearing it out right till the last possible second before im dropped.... my first two laps are usually a bit off till it comes up to temp properly and the tank is making good presure.... i ran a 45 min main once temping every pit and was within 5 degrees for the entire run(i dont temp anymore and tune with my ears).... i also know there are 3 different carbs for these motors and different pipes make a difference to how they tune to.... also look for leaks even tiny ones with these motors.... they are real tempremental with even the smallest leak.... last time i had a leak it was the little rubber rings around the needles causing it... ive also heard the boot on the carb tends to leak/split to and replacing with a OS one works well hope all that is of some help lol

jnc011994

Full Revs,

Thanks for the info. Will check for leaks and test engine with half tank if it still flames out. I haven't change to OS Carb yet. Will also try that OS Carb after the leak and half-tank test.

Thanks,

*FULL-REVS*

i had another thought too.... what % fuel are you running? are you shimmed right for it? just something else to consider [8D]

jnc011994

I'm using cosmo 25% nitro. and stock shim on the engine.

j_blaze

i found it easiest to tune the lsn from the lean side and hsn from the rich side, about 1mm opening on idle stop.

*FULL-REVS*

from memory i think they are shimmed from the factory for 30%..... but also have a good read of this http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...es-thread.html your eyes will probably be bleeding by the end of it but its a good read [8D]

fish1344

I have a GO .21 7 port, it is running great has about 1 gallon of fuel through it, my question is should I be able to turn the engine over by hand at room temp., granted it does get hard at TDC but I am still able to get it past TDC by hand. Is this normal or should I be worried?

*FULL-REVS*

congrats you have just about run it in lol now is when it will start making some real power[8D] completly fine.....

fish1344

Great news!!! Thanks for the info Full-Revs.

youwish16

im still gonna kick you ***** this weekend with the good ol rb! watch out!

*FULL-REVS*

make sure you got your mama on speed dial for when the go tech smokes you into next week..... [>:] smack talk is one of the best parts of racing.....

fish1344

Does anybody know if GO is still doing the contingency program?

Tree1

I believe they still have a contingency program. Check out the Racefactor industries website for more details.

http://racefactorindustries.com/id21.html

gbasile77

how do you take the carb off the .21 7 port? I have completly removed the pinch bolt. Is it threaded in the motor of just slips in?

mthird

I left the pinch bolt in (loosened, of course) and then pushed on it from the nut side. This causes the neck to open and should allow you to remove the carb.

uncleknobby

I have a go 5 port; somebody told me that there is a upgrade low speed needle that has a sharper point. Does anybody have any knowledge or experience with it? Apparently using this needle makes setting the bottom end easier!?

gbasile77

Hi. I managed to get the carb off, however now with it all back in place the carb turns quite easily even though I have tightened the pinch bolt as much as is possible. This can't be normal can it?

Also, when the car is running on the box with the throttle in neutral position the revs keep rising quite a bit all by themselves. If I put the brakes on the revs go back down. What could cause this?
My throttle linkages and radio I believe are all ok.

thanks.