Hey guys, I went an bought a Hobao HYper 7 TQ .28 mach sport yesterday , i love it already although the engine hasnt been even run in yet if you hyper 7 experts could help me with some easy quistions that would be great

1.What is the simplest way for me to prime the engine?
2.where do you fill the fuel up 2
3. What it the optimal run in guide for my hyper 7? the booklet says run 6 tanks at 1/2 throttle? the guy in the shop said very differntly.

He recommended

1 tank idle
3 tanks half throttle
1 tank 3/4 throttle

thanks guys!

Take the pipe off the exhaust pipe and blow till u see fuel hit the carb, then pull the pullstart 2 times, put glow igniter on and off u go
fill to the top, but dont go overboard, it will spill out and make a mess.

do as the book says

oh and have u got msn? we could have a chat and i can tell u some other stuff if u like

1. Just put your finger over the exhaust tip and pull a few times then let go
2. dont over fill & spill
3. this is good for any engin

This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines)."

"
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power "
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