Ready for the track!!![>:]

I'm too tired right now to name the re-build and up-grades, I'll try and do that tomorrow.

Meantime....a few pics hopefully.

and finally....

I think I've got it all down....

Complete rebuild list:

Lightened CNC chassis
Rebuilt diffs 3 / 5 / 3
New diff housings
New bearings all around
Rebuilt shocks
New lightened CNC Ackerman
New Servo Saver
KingHeadz extended motor mount
Fioroni front shock tower
New fuel tank
Lightened out-drives on centre diff
New wing
New body
80% new screws all around
Titanium turnbuckles
New brake pads and discs
New tires
New battery / receiver box
New on/off switch
CNC aluminium centre diff holder
Lightweight centre spur
New large stone fuel filter
New fuel lines
New rear skid plate
New wing stay
New closed wheel nuts
New 1 piece shock ball posts
New side guards

^^^^^^^^
try 5-7-3 in your diffs. i loved that setup, worked at every track i went too.

Glad to see you got that problem with your nipple worked out. 

ROFL!!!!! For your information....my nipple(s) are fine....hahahahahaha, thank you.

jmaxey, I've run that combo before, however, I find with my driving style, the 3 5 3 works good for me, thanks bro.

I broke in my Novarossi 21RBF-Limited motor in my Jammin X1-CR-Fte. So far I am very happy with it. Being new to 8 scale buggies (Had a RC10GT2 before and raced electric) so I had to go through a learning curve. Here is what I learned...mostly the hard way....... First, my old Nimh batteries for my starter box were not up to par....so I purchased new ones......and one should charge them right before running, not the night before.... Second, the motor is very tight and one must use a heat/gun or atleast a hair dryer to break this engine in......... I had a heck of a time dealing with a hesitation.. The car ran fine for about three minutes, then a hesitation would kick in.........I had every expert look at my car with contradictive opinions. So I of course changed the glow plug and went back to factory settings........ I started leaning out the HSN one hour at a time...many hrs. later it appeared to reach it's top performance.........so now I deal with the LSN. leaned it about 2-3 hrs from the initial factory settings... then another one or two.......then the car hesitates again........so I richen it 1-2 hrs... still happens, but better... So I back out the HSN a couple of hrs.. and I find a good sweet spot... (the car has excellent acceleration and good top end with no hesitation anymore-did the punch test and pinch test often - 4 seconds, then a slightly higher idle and cut off). I temped it many many times..... It is at 230 Farenheit in Miami, FL where the temp is about 85 degrees. I tuned it in a parking lot without a body, knowing the body will add about 10-13 degrees to the engine temp. So far so good.. Now for my questions:

The car seemed to perform better with a slightly high idle.. It appeared to have slightly better acceleration, but not much... The gap was originally set to factory settings.... any thoughts?
I played with the idle setting on my transmitter (M8) that also have a direct relationship with my brake linkage. This is what I found, the idle setting that I feel is best (Happy medium between a somewhat high idle and a low idle- I believe it's best for the car to have the capability of idling for at least 15-20 seconds, anything less is risky for racing.. Please comment... I also reached a point when the brake is engaged it will cut out after three seconds when the brake is engaged (especially with a low or somewhat medium idle)... I don't think this is a problem as who brakes for three seconds. Please comment.... My car steers tighter to the right than the left because the A-arm encumbers the steering knuckle. I could dremel a very small part of the A arm out and get more travel. Any thoughts? FYI I have a 300 oz. steering in the car already (JR Z9000T).