i think there should be an official jammin x1x thread. put all your jammin pics ,thoughts,and comments here. rtr or kits.

ok well i have a x1x an what receiver battery type fits in the receiver box? stick or a hump?

oh an i havent done much but i basically stripped out the electronics and in the process of replacing them. so far i got a spektrum SR3300T receiver with all telemetry hooked up mostly. and putting a hitec HS-645MG servo for throttle, and hitec HS-985MG servo for steering. (nothing fancy, sorry cant afford fancy stuff).

it runs a hump pack. i only run Stickman packs because they are the only ones that havent given me trouble. he has a 2500 mAh that will last a good while on one charge. its the SRP2500-MUG pa here is a link to his website: http://stickmanrc.com/index.html

alright thanks

i will have a look then

just got my jammin tuesday 1st thing I'm going to d is make a chassis z-brace out of aluminum I have sitting around that are leftovers from a chassis for another RC I'm working on No way in hell am I paying $30 for a tiny piece of aluminum

Someone also told me I should get some other brace replaced with aluminum seeing its made of plastic and bends inwards if it takes a rough landing, I'm trying to figure out which one that is.

Front and rear chassis brace and the rear toe in plate are good to have aluminum. also aluminum wing post mounts are good also because they dont come loose. i would sell you all of mine from my x1 but im about to get my x1 running again. but look on Ebay i have bought parts for less than 5 bucks. i got a brand new chassis for 20 bucks shiped just be patient and youll get some great deals.
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yea I'm not in a huge hurry can't run it for another 2-3 months. Only bought it now cause if I wait either they would have been out of stock or stop carrying it with my luck.

yeah when you do run it, the plastic braces will work, but the aluminum ones make the chassis feel 3x stiffer.

thats what the guy at the worker at the LHS said. He just was saying he saw one of his friends Jammin X1 take a nose dive and the nylon brace flexed too much and bent the chassis, the brace didn't break though. He said the guy put on the aluminum one then with the Z-brace and ran it like mad since and had no issues.

i forgot about the Z-brace because the x2 does not have one but that is a must! i cracked the carbon fiber radio tray because the chassis was flexing so much. also on the plastic braces i have seen people bend the chassis a good bit with those braces.
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im also running aluminum servo tray posts, belive it or not it does make the chassis even more ridgid.

i broke down and bought the aluminum stuff because when i bump started, i could see and feel the chassis flex a little, right by the engine, and i was worried about breaking my new engine and clutch, now its like trying to flex a piece of iron.

do you have a one piece engine mount? if not i would highly recommend one. if you have a picco or picco based engine it might be hard to find a one piece mount cheap because they have to have their own special mount because they have a weird crank case.
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no i dont, im running a Jammin jpx .21, i know the exhaust outlet was wierd.

oh you would have to get the King Heads one that is made for Picco Engines and its on the pricy side. i have the same engine and at the front of the case it hits the bar that connects the two sides.
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Just ordered my X1X! Should be here Monday. Psyched

You might want to get the CNC'd center braces as well as the Z-brace (it will stop chassis warping from motor torque) you can usually find them on ebay WAY cheaper than hobbie shops want for them (most places want $50 a piece I got the braces and Z-brace for $30 total off ebay )
And also get a metal geared steering servo I use a Hitec 645MG which cost me under $30 and its working good so far . The stock steering servos pretty crappy IMO I found it not to have smooth movement and was lacking in the torque department.

+1 on what he said. however the Z-brace isnt a must IMO, i have ran it both ways, Z-barce is better but not a must, but the chassis braces are a MUST!!! if you dont you are 95% more likely to bend the chassis, seen it quite a few times.
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lol my LHS shop clerk told me it will look like a taco if you jump it, and don't get the CNC braces. Main reason I took his advise is he said goto ebay cause the shop will charge more for 1 part than I could get both for off ebay
1st store I've been in that will tell potential customers to shop on ebay

I've been lookin' all over ebay for these chassis braces but can't find any for the X1X. Can anyone direct me to the front/rear brace on eBay? I'll go ahead and order them right now! Thanks!

The only ones i've found are on A Main Hobby and they are around 25 to 30 bucks a piece!! Ouch.

search jammin x1 and there should be one.

I'm having trouble finding where the Z-brace for this thing even goes. Any help?

near the fuel tank and the motor there should be 4 holes it lines up to them

Gotcha. Makes sense, can't believe i overlooked that really.

I have a Jammin X1CR-FTE that I plan to race. I would like more out of my servo's and want to know if it's advisable to change the receiver pack (1600 nimh) to a 2C lipo or 6.6 Life receiver pack (Hobbico sells the latter - 6.6V 11 mah battery) If Lipo, I would prefer not have to use a voltage cutoff unit if possible. Would my servo's be able to handle the higher voltage. As to the Life pack, I think this would be a direct "bolt on" and would not have to worry about frying my servo's. I currently have older servos.... KO Propo PS 2173FET for the throttle (111 oz. @ 6 volts and .09), and a JR Hi-torque digital Z9000T for the steering (300 oz @ 6 volts and .15 speed). How much faster would my servo's work using a lipo (2C) and the Life unit described? This might even be a way for a budget racer to enhance his servo package for a nominal cost? What say you?

IMO you will toast the servo's at 6.6v