nitro boat motor brake in
08-03-2010, 08:00 AM
#2
RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Oh boy, this is a subject where you can get a lot of ways to do it.
Do it in the water, not on dry land. Run it rich with the fuel that you plan on using all of the time. Go full throttle when going straight then make the turns slowly to heat-cycle the engine. After a few tankfuls then start leaning the carb.
Now, for some other ways....................
Do it in the water, not on dry land. Run it rich with the fuel that you plan on using all of the time. Go full throttle when going straight then make the turns slowly to heat-cycle the engine. After a few tankfuls then start leaning the carb.
Now, for some other ways....................
08-03-2010, 10:33 AM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Bench breaking is ok as long as you have water flow for the first tank or two. I add BEnol to every tank durring break in. 1-2 oz a tankful.
08-03-2010, 01:44 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Ron's method works very, very well for all r/c nitro applications. Run the engine with a load (in the water), needle setting on the rich side, but not too rich, then each tank start leaning her out little.
Have fun!
Russ
Have fun!
Russ
ORIGINAL: Ron Olson
Oh boy, this is a subject where you can get a lot of ways to do it.
Do it in the water, not on dry land. Run it rich with the fuel that you plan on using all of the time. Go full throttle when going straight then make the turns slowly to heat-cycle the engine. After a few tankfuls then start leaning the carb.
Now, for some other ways....................
Oh boy, this is a subject where you can get a lot of ways to do it.
Do it in the water, not on dry land. Run it rich with the fuel that you plan on using all of the time. Go full throttle when going straight then make the turns slowly to heat-cycle the engine. After a few tankfuls then start leaning the carb.
Now, for some other ways....................
08-03-2010, 03:22 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
ORIGINAL: Hydro Rob
Bench breaking is ok as long as you have water flow for the first tank or two. I add BEnol to every tank durring break in. 1-2 oz a tankful.
Bench breaking is ok as long as you have water flow for the first tank or two. I add BEnol to every tank durring break in. 1-2 oz a tankful.
Personally, I would just do what Ron says. Run rich in the water and vary throttle a bit.
08-03-2010, 05:17 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Yea that's a really good Idea, just throw it in the water and Gas It right from the get go, You can buy more parts when it breaks.
Ron I normally agree with most the advice you give people but This One I Gotta Say is Bad Advice.
There are a number of different ways to break an engine in and everybody will say there's is the best,,LOL.
The key to Break In is "Heat Cycling" which is like it sounds, Get the engine warmed up then cool it down so all the moving parts "Expand" when they get "HOT" and "Contract" when Cooled. This lets the parts Ware Together in short Spurts.
If the engine Is Real Rich it Doesn't get Hot at all, and it can cause even bigger problems in extreme cases like Rods Bending and Breaking from Hydrolocking.
This first thing I recommend is getting an infrared temp gage so you know How Hot your engine is getting. Most Nitro engines run Best\Dial In somewhere between 150*F and 190*F.
Nitro Fuel Cools your engine when it flows through it, the more fuel that goes through the cooler it gets(AKA Rich). As you Lean the engine the temp rises.
R\C Nitro Engines don't have rings on the piston like a typical full size engine, the Sleeve Tapers in at the Top and the Piston Wedges into it to create a seal, during Break In these two parts are beat together until they fit perfectly at TDC and the engine turns over smoothly.
I prefer to do the first 3 tanks On Dry Land with a water supply hooked up to the boat\engine so I can lean the engine with No Load on it and let it warm up. You can do this In the boat or on a Stand with a simple water supply something like this.
1st tank I use vice grips to pinch the water supply line to restrict water flow down to a slow trickle, start the engine and keep it at a Fast Idle, Blipping the throttle to 1\4 occasionally. Let it run a minute or two and check temp at the glow plug while it's running. Adjust the High Speed Needle(HSN) to get the Temp around 110*F. Then completely restrict water flow and Watch the Temp Closely. It should start rising, when it gets to 150*F start the Trickle of water again and cool it. Repeat this until the end of tank one.
Tank 2 do the same way but gradually increase max temp before cooling as you go, lean the HSN if needed to increase temp.
Tank 3 is the same just make your Max Temp around 190*F and try not to cool it below 150*F so it stays in Operating Temp Range the entire tank. As you get to the end of the last tank make sure you Richen the HSN so that the engine is just A Little Sluggish when revving it(NEVER GO Above 1\4 throttle out of the water) if you don't it Will be To Lean and Die when you toss it on the pond .
This method has saved me A Lot of frustration during break in because I don't spend A Lot of time Retrieving my Dead boat off the pond, and when I do get to the pond It's Ready to run Full Throttle and start Dialing It In.
Ron I normally agree with most the advice you give people but This One I Gotta Say is Bad Advice.
There are a number of different ways to break an engine in and everybody will say there's is the best,,LOL.
The key to Break In is "Heat Cycling" which is like it sounds, Get the engine warmed up then cool it down so all the moving parts "Expand" when they get "HOT" and "Contract" when Cooled. This lets the parts Ware Together in short Spurts.
If the engine Is Real Rich it Doesn't get Hot at all, and it can cause even bigger problems in extreme cases like Rods Bending and Breaking from Hydrolocking.
This first thing I recommend is getting an infrared temp gage so you know How Hot your engine is getting. Most Nitro engines run Best\Dial In somewhere between 150*F and 190*F.
Nitro Fuel Cools your engine when it flows through it, the more fuel that goes through the cooler it gets(AKA Rich). As you Lean the engine the temp rises.
R\C Nitro Engines don't have rings on the piston like a typical full size engine, the Sleeve Tapers in at the Top and the Piston Wedges into it to create a seal, during Break In these two parts are beat together until they fit perfectly at TDC and the engine turns over smoothly.
I prefer to do the first 3 tanks On Dry Land with a water supply hooked up to the boat\engine so I can lean the engine with No Load on it and let it warm up. You can do this In the boat or on a Stand with a simple water supply something like this.
1st tank I use vice grips to pinch the water supply line to restrict water flow down to a slow trickle, start the engine and keep it at a Fast Idle, Blipping the throttle to 1\4 occasionally. Let it run a minute or two and check temp at the glow plug while it's running. Adjust the High Speed Needle(HSN) to get the Temp around 110*F. Then completely restrict water flow and Watch the Temp Closely. It should start rising, when it gets to 150*F start the Trickle of water again and cool it. Repeat this until the end of tank one.
Tank 2 do the same way but gradually increase max temp before cooling as you go, lean the HSN if needed to increase temp.
Tank 3 is the same just make your Max Temp around 190*F and try not to cool it below 150*F so it stays in Operating Temp Range the entire tank. As you get to the end of the last tank make sure you Richen the HSN so that the engine is just A Little Sluggish when revving it(NEVER GO Above 1\4 throttle out of the water) if you don't it Will be To Lean and Die when you toss it on the pond .
This method has saved me A Lot of frustration during break in because I don't spend A Lot of time Retrieving my Dead boat off the pond, and when I do get to the pond It's Ready to run Full Throttle and start Dialing It In.
08-03-2010, 06:02 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
ORIGINAL: amax
Yea that's a really good Idea, just throw it in the water and Gas It right from the get go, You can buy more parts when it breaks.
Ron I normally agree with most the advice you give people but This One I Gotta Say is Bad Advice.
There are a number of different ways to break an engine in and everybody will say there's is the best,,LOL.
The key to Break In is ''Heat Cycling'' which is like it sounds, Get the engine warmed up then cool it down so all the moving parts ''Expand'' when they get ''HOT'' and ''Contract'' when Cooled. This lets the parts Ware Together in short Spurts.
If the engine Is Real Rich it Doesn't get Hot at all, and it can cause even bigger problems in extreme cases like Rods Bending and Breaking from Hydrolocking.
This first thing I recommend is getting an infrared temp gage so you know How Hot your engine is getting. Most Nitro engines run Best\Dial In somewhere between 150*F and 190*F.
Nitro Fuel Cools your engine when it flows through it, the more fuel that goes through the cooler it gets(AKA Rich). As you Lean the engine the temp rises.
R\C Nitro Engines don't have rings on the piston like a typical full size engine, the Sleeve Tapers in at the Top and the Piston Wedges into it to create a seal, during Break In these two parts are beat together until they fit perfectly at TDC and the engine turns over smoothly.
I prefer to do the first 3 tanks On Dry Land with a water supply hooked up to the boat\engine so I can lean the engine with No Load on it and let it warm up. You can do this In the boat or on a Stand with a simple water supply something like this.
1st tank I use vice grips to pinch the water supply line to restrict water flow down to a slow trickle, start the engine and keep it at a Fast Idle, Blipping the throttle to 1\4 occasionally. Let it run a minute or two and check temp at the glow plug while it's running. Adjust the High Speed Needle(HSN) to get the Temp around 110*F. Then completely restrict water flow and Watch the Temp Closely. It should start rising, when it gets to 150*F start the Trickle of water again and cool it. Repeat this until the end of tank one.
Tank 2 do the same way but gradually increase max temp before cooling as you go, lean the HSN if needed to increase temp.
Tank 3 is the same just make your Max Temp around 190*F and try not to cool it below 150*F so it stays in Operating Temp Range the entire tank. As you get to the end of the last tank make sure you Richen the HSN so that the engine is just A Little Sluggish when revving it(NEVER GO Above 1\4 throttle out of the water) if you don't it Will be To Lean and Die when you toss it on the pond .
This method has saved me A Lot of frustration during break in because I don't spend A Lot of time Retrieving my Dead boat off the pond, and when I do get to the pond It's Ready to run Full Throttle and start Dialing It In.
Yea that's a really good Idea, just throw it in the water and Gas It right from the get go, You can buy more parts when it breaks.
Ron I normally agree with most the advice you give people but This One I Gotta Say is Bad Advice.
There are a number of different ways to break an engine in and everybody will say there's is the best,,LOL.
The key to Break In is ''Heat Cycling'' which is like it sounds, Get the engine warmed up then cool it down so all the moving parts ''Expand'' when they get ''HOT'' and ''Contract'' when Cooled. This lets the parts Ware Together in short Spurts.
If the engine Is Real Rich it Doesn't get Hot at all, and it can cause even bigger problems in extreme cases like Rods Bending and Breaking from Hydrolocking.
This first thing I recommend is getting an infrared temp gage so you know How Hot your engine is getting. Most Nitro engines run Best\Dial In somewhere between 150*F and 190*F.
Nitro Fuel Cools your engine when it flows through it, the more fuel that goes through the cooler it gets(AKA Rich). As you Lean the engine the temp rises.
R\C Nitro Engines don't have rings on the piston like a typical full size engine, the Sleeve Tapers in at the Top and the Piston Wedges into it to create a seal, during Break In these two parts are beat together until they fit perfectly at TDC and the engine turns over smoothly.
I prefer to do the first 3 tanks On Dry Land with a water supply hooked up to the boat\engine so I can lean the engine with No Load on it and let it warm up. You can do this In the boat or on a Stand with a simple water supply something like this.
1st tank I use vice grips to pinch the water supply line to restrict water flow down to a slow trickle, start the engine and keep it at a Fast Idle, Blipping the throttle to 1\4 occasionally. Let it run a minute or two and check temp at the glow plug while it's running. Adjust the High Speed Needle(HSN) to get the Temp around 110*F. Then completely restrict water flow and Watch the Temp Closely. It should start rising, when it gets to 150*F start the Trickle of water again and cool it. Repeat this until the end of tank one.
Tank 2 do the same way but gradually increase max temp before cooling as you go, lean the HSN if needed to increase temp.
Tank 3 is the same just make your Max Temp around 190*F and try not to cool it below 150*F so it stays in Operating Temp Range the entire tank. As you get to the end of the last tank make sure you Richen the HSN so that the engine is just A Little Sluggish when revving it(NEVER GO Above 1\4 throttle out of the water) if you don't it Will be To Lean and Die when you toss it on the pond .
This method has saved me A Lot of frustration during break in because I don't spend A Lot of time Retrieving my Dead boat off the pond, and when I do get to the pond It's Ready to run Full Throttle and start Dialing It In.
08-03-2010, 10:36 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
With No load on the engine and a good Fast Idle, I lean the HSN 1\4 turn at a time until it starts to warm up. Air temp will have a big affect on it also, the cooler it is the slower the engine will warm up.
What works for me may not work exactly the same for others, during the cooler months here in FL. the final temps will be a bit lower but the results are the same.
When I do get one to the pond the first few tanks are still break in tanks, you never get an engine fully broke in until it runs with a load on it and gets up to operating temp for a bit. I just prefer to do the most aggravating ones On the stand instead of the pond, that way I have more control of the engine temp and less urge to Gas It. I'm working on mounting a Plane prop to my Stand set up so I can do it with a load on it after the first couple tanks.
What works for me may not work exactly the same for others, during the cooler months here in FL. the final temps will be a bit lower but the results are the same.
When I do get one to the pond the first few tanks are still break in tanks, you never get an engine fully broke in until it runs with a load on it and gets up to operating temp for a bit. I just prefer to do the most aggravating ones On the stand instead of the pond, that way I have more control of the engine temp and less urge to Gas It. I'm working on mounting a Plane prop to my Stand set up so I can do it with a load on it after the first couple tanks.
08-03-2010, 10:49 PM
#9
RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Amax, this is why I realized that most people have their own way of breaking in engines and why I gave my way of doing things. This was the way that I was taught way back when so that's why I do it this way. That was also in an era when some people used a mixture of oil, toothpaste and their own secret sauce as a polishing compound to help the break-in process..
This is just one of those threads where if you ask 100 people how they do it, you might get 100 different answers.
This is just one of those threads where if you ask 100 people how they do it, you might get 100 different answers.
08-04-2010, 02:06 AM
#10
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Whats a tank full; ? what size tank for what size engine? How many oz. ?
This can leave a lot of leway on breakin time.l
Having this much fun must be illegal
This can leave a lot of leway on breakin time.l
Having this much fun must be illegal
08-04-2010, 08:06 AM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
I Hear Ya Ron, I was just surprised you said Go Full Throttle right from the start, No work your way up or anything. I'm gonna take a guess and say that was Before RTR Boats, and when Most people running a R\C boat were part of a club, and had a few Experienced Tuners around to help ya out. Pre Polishing an engine will make a Big Difference in break in procedure, No Doubt.
The thing that surprises me most is the lack of Break In Fuels with No Synthetic Oils in them, or even a mention of it.
Boatnut your right it does leave a bit of leway but it's the easiest way to approximate how long it's ran without using a stop watch and totaling up your run times. How long you break one in isn't AS important as Heat Cycling it. I have done it on the stand in 3 tanks and hit the pond full throttle with no worries, but I've done it 100 times, and I'm not gonna tell a Newbie that's asking How To Break one in to do it that way.
Part of the Break in process Is Learning how to Tune the engine and handle the boat.
The thing that surprises me most is the lack of Break In Fuels with No Synthetic Oils in them, or even a mention of it.
Boatnut your right it does leave a bit of leway but it's the easiest way to approximate how long it's ran without using a stop watch and totaling up your run times. How long you break one in isn't AS important as Heat Cycling it. I have done it on the stand in 3 tanks and hit the pond full throttle with no worries, but I've done it 100 times, and I'm not gonna tell a Newbie that's asking How To Break one in to do it that way.
Part of the Break in process Is Learning how to Tune the engine and handle the boat.
08-04-2010, 08:49 AM
#12
RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Full throttle on a slobbering rich setting isn't going to give you full speed or max RPM as it should be spitting out a lot of unburned fuel and oil. Running it in the water gives the engine a load that you won't get on a test stand or in the hull onshore.
08-05-2010, 12:10 AM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Read thispart of this threadon my journey to breaking in my engine and post #1280...a combo of what Ron and Amaxare saying...which means they are both right....ANDI DON'T RECOMEND YOU DO THIS THE WAYI DID EITHER.... I was very lucky, however, ran mine full tilt boogie today.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_56...page_52/tm.htm#
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_56...page_52/tm.htm#
08-06-2010, 10:37 PM
#17
RE: nitro boat motor brake in
I couldn't tell you as we don't know what you're breaking in. Call me crazy (like it hasn't been done before!) but I run 65% nitro most of the time in all of my nitro burners. I do have a gallon of 50% O'Donnell's but haven't tried it yet.
09-09-2010, 05:29 PM
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
I have 50% Odonnell fuel for my rossi 90 (never been run) and keep hearing mixed opions on adding Castor Oil or not...I was told by two people that raced larger nitor marine that it is not necessary. I am NOT racing...just sport boating and burning fuel.
What gives?
If I do need it, what is the mix ratio for this stuff???
What gives?
If I do need it, what is the mix ratio for this stuff???
09-10-2010, 01:46 AM
#19
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RE: nitro boat motor brake in
Good on ya AMAX
I like your idea of a prop setup.
It could be done with a flex or hardshaft driven through an old strut
using a drive dog setup to adapt to a airplane prop of a correct
size , this would load the engine for a proper breakin without
having to go to the pond an go through multiple runs.
You could change props to setup for different loads.
This way anyone can use thier own ,mixture, temp procedure
Having this much fun must be illegal
I like your idea of a prop setup.
It could be done with a flex or hardshaft driven through an old strut
using a drive dog setup to adapt to a airplane prop of a correct
size , this would load the engine for a proper breakin without
having to go to the pond an go through multiple runs.
You could change props to setup for different loads.
This way anyone can use thier own ,mixture, temp procedure
Having this much fun must be illegal
