does everyone here use lipo?
#26
I went to an Army surplus store and got a $5 50 cal ammo can, and popped a couple holes in it for the charge leads.
Works great for both charging and storage!!!
Works great for both charging and storage!!!
#31
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Downingtown,
PA
yeah. i was going to use life, but then some reviews on the turnigy lifes were like "pack came puffed, pack puffed in 5 cycles, all of the cells were at 0.00v, this thing won't balance." thats why i am now leaning towards lipo again.
#34

My Feedback: (31)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Danville,
KY
Ill admit i was hesitant about lipo's before i bought mine. But after seeing how much better they hold up, how much longer they last, and how much more power they provide while not even getting warm, im a fan now. Just be safe storing and charging them and you shouldnt have a problem.
#35
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Downingtown,
PA
yeah thats what i am feeling right now. i am very hesitant at getting lipos. i know about the safety required, im just very hesitant....
#36

My Feedback: (4)
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
#37
Lol the only nimh that I had was the one that came with my traxxas slash. It's been lipo since then. <div>You don't need a ammo case to charge lipos; people who do that just want to look cool. Lipos are great, you can't have a brushless car without one!</div>
#39
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Downingtown,
PA
ORIGINAL: 378
Yup. Well, the runners are all nitro. But they need batteries too. Nobody has thought to embed some magnets in the flywheel, throw a coil behind it, and power the receiver and servos that way...
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
<br type="_moz" />
#40

My Feedback: (4)
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
lol. well that would be good if they didn't need batteries. thats just extra weight added...not to mention all the weight from the engine already.
<br type=''_moz'' />
ORIGINAL: 378
Yup. Well, the runners are all nitro. But they need batteries too. Nobody has thought to embed some magnets in the flywheel, throw a coil behind it, and power the receiver and servos that way...
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
<br type=''_moz'' />
Though if I designed it the option would exist to continue to use batteries. I would. But then again I don't race so a couple extra ounces doesn't bother me at all.
#42
ORIGINAL: 378
Replace batteries with alternator > weight penalty nullified. 'Long as the engine is running you have power, and mechanical means will get the car to a safe stop if it stalls.
Though if I designed it the option would exist to continue to use batteries. I would. But then again I don't race so a couple extra ounces doesn't bother me at all.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
lol. well that would be good if they didn't need batteries. thats just extra weight added...not to mention all the weight from the engine already.
<br type="" />
ORIGINAL: 378
Yup. Well, the runners are all nitro. But they need batteries too. Nobody has thought to embed some magnets in the flywheel, throw a coil behind it, and power the receiver and servos that way...
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
<br type="" />
Though if I designed it the option would exist to continue to use batteries. I would. But then again I don't race so a couple extra ounces doesn't bother me at all.
<br type="_moz" />
#43
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Downingtown,
PA
actually, that would be bad. first your electronics go bad, then the engine itself, then your looking at an expensive fix.
#44
AA's and 9volt's for me...
Well I do have a couple of cars for the grand kids to bash! 
Still using NiCad and NiMh
When I buy a new charger I'll upgrade to one that will handle Lipo's.
Well I do have a couple of cars for the grand kids to bash! 
Still using NiCad and NiMh
When I buy a new charger I'll upgrade to one that will handle Lipo's.
#45

My Feedback: (4)
ORIGINAL: rc awesome
NOOOOOOO! don't bring electronics in to nitro motors! So much more to go wrong, not to mention the amount of power it would take to actually turn the alternator
<br type=''_moz'' />
ORIGINAL: 378
Replace batteries with alternator > weight penalty nullified. 'Long as the engine is running you have power, and mechanical means will get the car to a safe stop if it stalls.
Though if I designed it the option would exist to continue to use batteries. I would. But then again I don't race so a couple extra ounces doesn't bother me at all.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
lol. well that would be good if they didn't need batteries. thats just extra weight added...not to mention all the weight from the engine already.
<br type='''' />
ORIGINAL: 378
Yup. Well, the runners are all nitro. But they need batteries too. Nobody has thought to embed some magnets in the flywheel, throw a coil behind it, and power the receiver and servos that way...
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
ORIGINAL: electricrc68
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
yeah. wait you have all nitros? i always thought you had an electric.
The Mini-Z and Mini-T may be electric but they're hardly functional. Hell I don't even know where the Mini-Z is at the moment.
<br type='''' />
Though if I designed it the option would exist to continue to use batteries. I would. But then again I don't race so a couple extra ounces doesn't bother me at all.
<br type=''_moz'' />
...really? A few neodymium magnets the size of a hearing aid battery, three inches of wire and two diodes is "so much more to go wrong"?
If that's the case then why is there such a system currently on the market for aircraft? Aircraft are WAAAAAY more sensitive to weight than our cars are and if something flails they tend to turn into confetti. Yet, a system extremely similar to what I'm describing is available and selling well enough to warrant a 150 dollar price tag.
#47
Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Edina, MN,
Not in my bigger/glow conversions I use A123s!
Cans not bags and much more tollerant to our kind of use.
Also, they can be recharge very quickly while in the plane, and only need a "balance" once in a while.
I either use my 5020 MasTech Power supply @ 20amps; or "Zip" charge: 1 Pb = 3S, 2 Pb = 6S (my .46s), 3Pb 9/10S (1/4 Cub & Groovey).
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoiS1h3o98[/youtube]
Cans not bags and much more tollerant to our kind of use.
Also, they can be recharge very quickly while in the plane, and only need a "balance" once in a while.
I either use my 5020 MasTech Power supply @ 20amps; or "Zip" charge: 1 Pb = 3S, 2 Pb = 6S (my .46s), 3Pb 9/10S (1/4 Cub & Groovey).
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoiS1h3o98[/youtube]
#48
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: San Diego but living in Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATE
I still run nimh humpbacks in my cars. No lipos. My Futaba 3PM transmitter runs a 1100 mah, 9.6v nicd. My OFNA blue top starter box runs a 12v motorcycle battery.
But I'd like to run them to power the electronics in my Jammin X1X buggy and Jammin X2 truggy, as well as my Futaba 3PM. What Lipos would I need to get this done and would any of them need regulators or something like that?
Absolute dunce when it comes to lipos really.
Thanks
But I'd like to run them to power the electronics in my Jammin X1X buggy and Jammin X2 truggy, as well as my Futaba 3PM. What Lipos would I need to get this done and would any of them need regulators or something like that?
Absolute dunce when it comes to lipos really.
Thanks
#49
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Blue Ridge, GA
TommyGun... you use a 3S 11.1 lipo in most TX's. I love the one in my 3PMFASST. I go 5-6 months without having to recharge, and ive still never seen it drop below 11v. I use a CommonSenseRC 2800mah 3S pack.
No electric vehicles for me to use LiPo's. Though, i have successfully used them as RX packs (2S regulated to 6v) and of course TX packs.
No electric vehicles for me to use LiPo's. Though, i have successfully used them as RX packs (2S regulated to 6v) and of course TX packs.
#50
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Downingtown,
PA
ORIGINAL: jrb1
Not in my bigger/glow conversions I use A123s!
Cans not bags and much more tollerant to our kind of use.
Also, they can be recharge very quickly while in the plane, and only need a "balance" once in a while.
I either use my 5020 MasTech Power supply @ 20amps; or "Zip" charge: 1 Pb = 3S, 2 Pb = 6S (my .46s), 3Pb 9/10S (1/4 Cub & Groovey).
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoiS1h3o98[/youtube]
Not in my bigger/glow conversions I use A123s!
Cans not bags and much more tollerant to our kind of use.
Also, they can be recharge very quickly while in the plane, and only need a "balance" once in a while.
I either use my 5020 MasTech Power supply @ 20amps; or "Zip" charge: 1 Pb = 3S, 2 Pb = 6S (my .46s), 3Pb 9/10S (1/4 Cub & Groovey).
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghoiS1h3o98[/youtube]
<br type="_moz" />


