Old HPI's
#1
Old HPI's
What's up everyone? My neighbor gave me 2 old HPI cars. One is the Super Nitro RS4 with the t15 engine and the other is a RS4 Pro2. The Nitro's engine and carb were seized up, do to sitting in a tote for 10 years and some old fuel hummed everything up. Took it out and cleaned everything, parts looked brand new and replaced the gaskets. Put it back together and everything moves the way it's supposed to. I can't get it to fire. I tested the glow plug and it has a good burn. After pulling it for a little bit it floods out and fuel starts spitting out the carb. I adjusted the needle valve the way the manual tells me and have a 1mm gap in the carb. I know this thing is old and I am gonna get another engine but any ideas would be appreciated, I'd like to run this until I get my new one. Last thing, what engine would fit on this car?
#2
kduff , your r/c engine is still to rich your needles out of adjustment low speed needle (LSN ) and high speed needle (hsn )
see the nitro engine forum ok nitro engines you could purchase for the old hpi cars . O.S. 15 , 18 , novarossi, SH , RB CONCEPTS, there is probably a few more also, these are good for 1/10 scale rc vehicles also pull start motors or bump start ( need starter box ) type motor
ok mugey
see the nitro engine forum ok nitro engines you could purchase for the old hpi cars . O.S. 15 , 18 , novarossi, SH , RB CONCEPTS, there is probably a few more also, these are good for 1/10 scale rc vehicles also pull start motors or bump start ( need starter box ) type motor
ok mugey
#3
Thanks for the help man. I have another question. I bought a redcat hurricane xtr. I was doing the break in procedure and after a long time finally got it to run with out stalling. My concern now is after it runs at an idle, the longer it runs, the higher the idle becomes. To the point of the clutches engage and the wheels spinning. That points to it running to lean, but it's still spitting fuel out the exhaust, the engine temp is within spec and when I give it any throttle at all it dies immediately. What are your thoughts on that? The thing is brand new it shouldn't have any air leaks or anything like that.
#4
hi kufflive, yes it will still spit out the exhaust , and all nitro engines run at different temps not always in what you call spec. temps anywhere from 205 to 270 degrees for each engine even from same manufacture and with different nitro fuels 20 % 25% 30% and with different glow plugs temps ( hot and cold type ), your still out of adjustment if engine shuts down when you go to full throttle , see the rc car nitro and gas engines forum
this will help you with the fine adjustment for your engine and you might want change glow plug after the break in ok mugey
this will help you with the fine adjustment for your engine and you might want change glow plug after the break in ok mugey
#5
I would make sure the carb is fully seated and tightened down good. That drawbar (pinch bolt) that holds the carb just needs to be snug. I would also make sure the carburetor linkage is closing the throttle at idle and that the throttle doesn't close further when you hit the brakes.
If you can take a video of the engine when it's idling up and post it, we can better help.
If you can take a video of the engine when it's idling up and post it, we can better help.
#6
Alrighty, when I get home I'll get a video for you guys. Also, I checked all of the above, but I didn't check the carb bolts. I'll check that when I get home as well. I also got the manual to the engine and 230 to 260 is what they call for. I was running at 255. I'm just paranoid of over heating the engine. Lol
#7
If you have it tuned right, it really shouldn't go over 240F running on pavement. Maybe 250-260 in grass/dirt, but really 220-240F is a good area to be. If your temps drop a degree or two every couple seconds at idle, your low speed isn't too lean. If your temps spike after a few long WOT passes, you're too lean on the high speed. Same goes for if your idle hangs momentarily after a WOT run - your high speed would be too lean here also.
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#13
Doesn't make a difference if it's spraying oil from the exhaust. It's too lean, period. Richen both needle valves a half turn and re-tune it. ANY time it cuts out like that, it's lean. A rich condition will be boggy and slow to rev - lots of smoke.
Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 04-16-2017 at 11:52 AM.