my stadium truck has lots of power and good tires (gladiators) on the front but stock tires on the back.
ive been driving it in bitumin carparks lately tuning etc
it has good turn in but looses the rear end if you turn with speed or power on.
this causes exiting oversteer but you can also loop the car
with little traction i could do a donut or 2 and keep going after i lost the rear but ive fiddled with sway bar stiffness and rear camber to get more rear traction so now when i push too hard and loose the rear end the car flicks backwards and stalls and then freerolls backwards to a stop.

is there any way to stop this stalling and increasing rear traction. ie changing front rear balance, ride height, shock performance. because i cant afford better rear tires

You could try to change the toe-in on the rear wheels, try to put the rear wheels with the front closer than the rear. Don't overdo it, or your tires wont wear even anymore.

thanks for the advice
its a HPI rush chassis so its made with a whole bunch of toe in at the back and you cant change it

Also try softening the rear suspension....even give the car a squat in the rear end it will aid the rear grip

TM

on that same note you can stiffen the front. As a general rule, the stiffer you go with the springs/shocks, the more traction transferred to the other end. For example, stiffening the front suspension will give greater rear traction and stiffeneing the rear will give greater front traction and so on. Raising the ride height has the same effect as stiffining the springs: higer in the front=more rear traction, higher in the rear=more front traction and so on. Be careful, because it is easy to go too far with either ajustment. If you make a change and do not like it, undo what you did and make a smaller adjustment or try something else. for example if you raise the front ride hight and now the truck pushes the front end, dont stiffen the rear springs. Instead, undo that change and try a smaller adjustment or soften the front springs a little. You will probably have to make several adjustments to get the perfect balance, so be patient. different weights of shock oil have similar results as different spring weights, but dont go heavier than 40wt. shock oil if you intend to ever drive the truck off road. The thick oil will not allow the suspension to absorb the off road bumps.

Also notice, you say you are breaking in the stadium truck, but you are doing it on pavement (I think) If you ever intend to do off-road driving, you should tune off-road. Your perfect pavement settings probably will not work very well on dirt.

thanks for the advice
im not breaking it in im just running it on road because to find a good offroad area i have to travel far (conveniance)
im just trying to get reasonable settings instead of bad ones and get more traction on road so i dont have no traction offroad. when i take the car on some dirt the rear gets mighty loose. but tuning offroad is probly a good idea.

stock rush has very very soft rear spring so i was running the original front shocks and harder rear spring on the back in series and the original back ones on the front. but about a week ago i took out the smaller springs from the back and put the spacer back in. so now the rear sits low and the front high.
the back has heaps of squat (nearly half shock travel (this is with harder than stock spring)) and the front virtually no squat.so shassis slopes up to front (also good for bouncing over kurbs when you hit them)
this is what you guys have been saying and it seems to work well on road but as you say it wont be a good offroad setup (jumps n bumps) as my chassis will spend more time against the ground than in the air.

It may bottom out, but if the springs really are harder than stock it may not be as bad as you think. Like I said before, try it first and go from there. You will be able to tell if its too low in the rear pretty quickly as soon as you start hitting bumpsand Jumps.