official smartech buggy thread
#1826
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From: VSVS, SWITZERLAND
Hi there,
I own a smartech winnersport buggy, and I have a very strange problem with the throttle servo.
It's operating normally, but sometimes, it spins and open fully the carb without any intervention !!, It's not possible to stop it (by chance the tank was almost empty
.
I tried to remove the servo horn, and noticed that sometimes, the servo doesn't react properly (spin clockwise, then anti-clockwise, and then stop at the correct position for a while).
Does anyone have any idea about the problem ?
Thank you in advance
I own a smartech winnersport buggy, and I have a very strange problem with the throttle servo.
It's operating normally, but sometimes, it spins and open fully the carb without any intervention !!, It's not possible to stop it (by chance the tank was almost empty
. I tried to remove the servo horn, and noticed that sometimes, the servo doesn't react properly (spin clockwise, then anti-clockwise, and then stop at the correct position for a while).
Does anyone have any idea about the problem ?
Thank you in advance
#1827
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
Do you live in a populated area? Did you get the buggy wet? It must either be that you are getting interference from some other 27 Mhz radio signal or there is a short circuit somewhere in the electronics. If you got the buggy wet, let it fully dry out and see if it still happens. If you live close to other people, you might upgrading the electronics to 75 Mhz.
#1828
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From: SHREVEPORT, LA
i live in a large city and the is open country right out side the city i run my tuned pipe in town and my open header outside because to many complants about the noise also u want to find a big parking lot that there no ones around
#1829
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From: Plymouth, NH
Thats pretty sweat. Do you know of any other brands that are compatible with smartech speedy tigers?
Or do you know of any upgrades for this buggy?
Or do you know of any upgrades for this buggy?
#1830
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From: VSVS, SWITZERLAND
Thanks docphysics.
I finally found the problem. There were a small piece of wood inside the servo gears... strange !
I have another issue with the steering servo, it's glitching when the smart temp module is operating. I contacted venom about that, and i'm waiting for their suggestions.
I finally found the problem. There were a small piece of wood inside the servo gears... strange !
I have another issue with the steering servo, it's glitching when the smart temp module is operating. I contacted venom about that, and i'm waiting for their suggestions.
#1831
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From: Garden Grove,
CA
Hey! i just bought a smartech buggy off ebay for $130 + Shipping What all do i need to get it running? What will i probably break first? it will come in the mail in a few days hopefully!
#1832
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From: VSVS, SWITZERLAND
Hi,
To start, u only need nitro fuel and 8 AA batteries.
Difficult to say wich part you will break first
For me it was the clutch and servos.
To start, u only need nitro fuel and 8 AA batteries.
Difficult to say wich part you will break first
For me it was the clutch and servos.
#1834
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
and a glow plug igniter.
In the meantime spend the next few days reading the past 73 pages of this thread. There is a ton of info contained in there.
In the meantime spend the next few days reading the past 73 pages of this thread. There is a ton of info contained in there.
#1835
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From: chesterfield,
VA
hey there again doc well it worked fine for quite a while but, now when i get it running, it works ~ok~ for about thirty seconds and then it slows to a crawl, and revs low (when im holding full throttle) and only moves like 1mph.....i have the new glowplug and new fuel. any suggestions.?????
#1836
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
check to make sure that the fuel line between the gas tank and the pipe attached very securely to both ends. Also check to make sure the fuel tank lid is completely closing and that there is no dirt along the o-ring seal of the fuel tank. It sounds like there is not enough back pressure into the fuel tank to keep it running. Also, if you installed a fuel filter, make sure it is in there in the correct direction and not clogged.
#1837
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From: chesterfield,
VA
hey again doc, i checked and my fuel lines are all ok and everything looks good i just dont know what is happening....just for grins,..what do you think about jatos? i may invest in one if problems continue.
#1838
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
hmmm........ I am out of ideas as to what could be wrong without being able to actually look at it..... if you can make a video of when it bogs down and put it on youtube I can take a look and see if I can figure something else out.
As for Jato's......... FAAAAAASSSSSSTTTT!!!!!!!!!! The new 3.3 are wickedly over powered! So much so that when it pops into second gear it can actually wheelie and flip out of control. I mean those things are crazy fast! You would be moving from a beginner nitro vehicle to an expert nitro vehicle. Also, they are way more durable than the smartechs and the other good thing is that it is easy to get parts for them. So if that sounds appealing, then go for it. Just be prepared, they have massive power for a rear wheel drive vehicle, but I am sure they are fun!
Go to youtube and type in jato 3.3 and watch some of the vids.
As for Jato's......... FAAAAAASSSSSSTTTT!!!!!!!!!! The new 3.3 are wickedly over powered! So much so that when it pops into second gear it can actually wheelie and flip out of control. I mean those things are crazy fast! You would be moving from a beginner nitro vehicle to an expert nitro vehicle. Also, they are way more durable than the smartechs and the other good thing is that it is easy to get parts for them. So if that sounds appealing, then go for it. Just be prepared, they have massive power for a rear wheel drive vehicle, but I am sure they are fun!
Go to youtube and type in jato 3.3 and watch some of the vids.
#1840
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
I think the 2.5 is better cuz the lower power makes it much more controllable. I never saw one of those in action but I heard they have plenty of power and speed for a rear wheel drive truggy.
#1841
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From: Garden Grove,
CA
I bought a glow plug igniter today, and 20% nitro. The guy at the local hobby shop said that somebody he knows bought a smartech buggy, and it didn't run because some wires were pinched during assembly. I hope mine doesn't have any problems out of the box. It should come any day in the mail.
#1842
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From: Garden Grove,
CA
My new car is a Winner 3 Speedy Tiger. With a One Speed Transmission. Does it make a big difference between the 1 and 2 speed trans? Can the trans be upgraded after you buy the car, or do you have to get the upgrade with it?
Do the a arms break easily, because of too hard plastic? my Rc 10 has semi flexible plastic so it doesn't break very easy.
Do the a arms break easily, because of too hard plastic? my Rc 10 has semi flexible plastic so it doesn't break very easy.
#1843
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
There is a difference in top speed between 1 and 2 speed transmission. It can be upgraded but its kind of a pain. Some people have the 2 speed transmission and can't get it to shift. Just stick with the one speed for awhile until you get used to RC nitro, then you might as well upgrade to another brand of vehicle. The plastic parts will break if you smash into something like curbs and trees. Try to avoid hittting stuff and you shouldn't have a problem. Enjoy!
#1845
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From: Clayton, WA
i have the Smartech Winner 3 Sport Speedy. it has a two speed tranny. what nitro and oil sontent should i get? and how do i break in the engine?
#1846
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
I ran 20% nitro with 18% oil, never had a problem with mine.
Break it in slowly. Run the engine RICH! The only downside to a rich engine is loss of power. If you run it to lean from the get go, you will fry your piston and sleeve.
Here is a decent article describing the break in process. I would follow it if you are new to nitro RC.
http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/nitro.../f/breakin.htm
Break it in slowly. Run the engine RICH! The only downside to a rich engine is loss of power. If you run it to lean from the get go, you will fry your piston and sleeve.
Here is a decent article describing the break in process. I would follow it if you are new to nitro RC.
http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/nitro.../f/breakin.htm
#1847
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From: drammen, NORWAY
Hey guys! just wanted to brag a little about my new engine
bought it off ebay for 60$ and i actually had a couple of wheelies in high speed with it! ended ofcourse with a broken suspension arm and a bent wheel axle.. cant figure out how i did that with the wheel axle without breaking any plastic... guess its quite solid. EXCEPT from the rear diff. driving gear beeing stripped all the time.. dont quite know what to do with that[&o]
bought it off ebay for 60$ and i actually had a couple of wheelies in high speed with it! ended ofcourse with a broken suspension arm and a bent wheel axle.. cant figure out how i did that with the wheel axle without breaking any plastic... guess its quite solid. EXCEPT from the rear diff. driving gear beeing stripped all the time.. dont quite know what to do with that[&o]
#1849
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From: drammen, NORWAY
strange.. that was a big picture[X(] never happened before..
engine is a 18. and made in china thats all i know. found it on ebay. I think it came off a new smartech of some kind..
the guy selling it has an ebay store and calls himself rc-nitropower
engine is a 18. and made in china thats all i know. found it on ebay. I think it came off a new smartech of some kind..
the guy selling it has an ebay store and calls himself rc-nitropower
#1850
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From: drammen, NORWAY
but whats really great is that it is so easy to tune. first run i just roughly set the needles and it started and ran on idle almost perfectly. it really gave me a lot more driving time and almost no time goes to waste trying to get a good tune. i love it


