Yea, that's what I had too. I never really had any problems with the servos or controller. Just don't trust green/yellow/red battery power light on the controller. As soon as the light goes from green to yellow change the batteries, unless you run a failsafe. I learned that the hardway after I lost signal and my buggy shot across a parking lot into a curb and into a ditch at about 40 mph. [:@]

ok i know somewhere back there was a disscussion about what to do when you brake and it dies...but i cant find it!!!too many pages can some one let me know how to stop my carb from closing when i hit the brake?

Thank you. do you know how many turns out the screws need to be? also my car needs a lot of throttle before the clutch engages. how do i fix that?

Adjust the little screw underneath the air filter. It controls how open or closed the barrel in the carb gets independent of the servo. I am guessing it the screw adjusted opening is to small but when you turn the servo and controller on, it cracks open the barrel to the proper idle speed. Take the air filter off and adjust screw while looking at the opening.

the main needle adjustment depends on outside air temp and altitude for optimal tuning, but 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out is about right.
Well you can increase the idle speed, and that will cause earlier engagement. Increase idle speed by adjusting the controller's throttle tril, or by adjusting the idle speed screw underneath the air filter.

ok well i messed with the screws to try and fix my carb from closing while braking...to me it seems like the servo is pulling the carb back how do i adjust this to make it stop.....do i got to mess with the spring behind the servo arm...? any help would be appreciated

Yes, the servo will pull the throttle linkage backwards, BUT the screw underneath the airfilter (NOT the screw connected to the throttle linkage) will LIMIT how far back the servo can pull the barrel opening. So just turn the screw under the air filter so that barrel opening is about 1 mm.

well i did that and the thing is still closing..the screw seems useless

So you adjusted the screw in the image below and does nothing for the barrel opening? Not sure what to tell ya. Try adjusting it with the controller on and the buggy on and the brake fully applied. See if you get any barrel movement that way.

i did...only thing it does is let the thing inside the carb move left and right like to center the hole or something...

ha...well i think ive fixed it!i hit the brakes and the carb doesnt move at all......ill have to adjust the idle speed tomorrow cant run it at midnight....neighbors already griping from the noise earlier...i just gave them the finger.. they walked away i had to adjust the throttle it was way off..took me an hour to fix the thing. and this carb sucks so tomorrow its off to the lhs to get that os 10 e carb..heard thats a big improvement and makes it easy to tune, and its only 14 dollars well il let you guys know how thats helps tomorrow

Yea, I had my neighbors complain about the noise too! Nice job on flipping them the bird.

my car spits oil out of the exhaust when its idling. it smokes a little, but not excessively. my low speed adjustment is 2 1/2 turns out. Any ideas?

does any one know any upgrades to make a speedy tigar handle better

You only need to adjust the low speed needle if it nearly stalls out when you womp on the throttle from an idle. If it idles ok, leave the low speed needle and idle speed alone. Spitting oil at idle isn't really a problem. 2 strokes aren't meant to idle for long periods of time and load up with excess unburned fuel and oil at idle. So as long as it runs ok, just leave it alone.

handle better than a 4wd buggy? Not too much handles better than that. What is the problem with it?

well if you read back some you can put some bigger(not much bigger) tires on it....or you can buy some offset rims to make it wider wich will make it turn better...just dont go to big on the rims and tires or you will loose power and acceleration unless you somehow manage to make some gears that would accomadate the bigger wheels, i have personally heard good results with offset rims makes it more stable and more responsive

i have a buddy thats an auto cad operator i think im gunna have him make me some aluminium a arms and shock towers for the front and rear suspension, along with the knuckles and all that i will try to poct a pic when its done...man my hobbie shop is really good priced on everything but fuel........1 gallon of 20% is $27.00 but i found he has os cv-rx .18 for $79.00...and the os 10 e carb was $14.00 he is an old old old guy but seems cool...i also was asking him if he carried any parts for smartech....he said "well no but i can start stocking them if you want... so when he does if any one needs some parts ill give you his site he also said that these buggies are almost 95% interchangable with other brands....i want some teflon clutches but he aint got those someone know where to get some

This will work:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDSZ5&P=ML

hey if you make metal arms, can you sell me some?

Guy's, I am new to this forum & nitro cars having just bought a Smartech Winner Sport. Have only stated it up & run it for a short time but wanted to clarify a couple of things.

I appreciate it is running rich at the moment to run the engine in but there appears to be un burnt fuel being sprayed out of the exhaust, is this normal of will it go when I open it up a bit?

Possibly connected to the above, I am not sure if I am using the correct type of fuel. I bought some Quickspeed 25 from a local shop in the UK, does anyone know if this is the right type?

Lastly for now, is there an online user manual as mine has been poorly translated?

Many thanks in anticipation of your reply.

It is normal to spit raw fuel when idling, if you spit raw fuel when driving you need to lean it out a bit.

Quickspeed 25 is fine. It has 25% nitro methane, I woudln't run any more nitro methane than that. I used to run 20% in my buggy.

2 big problems with Smartechs 1) getting spare parts. 2) the manual translation absolutely sucks. There are no other manuals that I know of, so if you have any questions, its better to ask here. Those with experience can help.

RCMASTER I used the original clutch bell and tranny. Had to make me a new throttle linkage but that wasnt a big problem.

well ok i think i totally screwed my servos this afternoon as i was trying to see if this thing will skip across water puddles....and hahaha....it did! so then i decided to do it again and hit a rock before the puddle and it kinda got drenched......i dont know if my batteries in the car are dead already......but the servo goes crazy when i turned it on....the rpms went through the roof and i had to kill it quickly cause it was so loud....and i was in my house, ive only had this thing a day...broke it in already and was wondering if it is possible to run the batteries dead in about 5 hours....or if i screwed my servos by getting them wet....as soon as it happened i busted the blow dryer out and dried it off. they started working just going crazy..... and yeah if i get those arms made....cant garuntee anything as to the autocad machine is at my buddys work...he will have to kinda sneek it from the bosses or ask them and if he has work it will be no and if he has nothing better to do he will make some....it would be nice to get some titanium as its lighter and stronger than aluminium and yeah if i get em ill have em make me 4 and ill sell them to you prolly cheap cause it wont cost me a thing to get em made....unless i buy some titanium then ill charge you a lil and you pay shipping...

I live in maine, and it started snowing while i was driving. i kept doing it because it was fun. all of a sudden the rpms went through the roof, and there was no transmitter response. i started it back up and everything seemed fine. i dried everything off, and a few hours later i started it up again, and decided to drive it in the recently plowed street. after about 2 seconds of driving it swerved off the road and the rpms shot up again. i dried it off, and servos work, and receiver works, but it wont start. any ideas?