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Help on GT4 RTR

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Old 09-23-2002 | 11:43 PM
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Default Help on GT4 RTR

I have a few questions i hope you guys could help me with....

1. When I apply throttle to my car it does not take off right away, maybe like a second later. Is it the clutch nut? How do i adjust it if it is?

2. When using after run oil, do i remove the glow plug, put some oil in there and turn the flywheel a few times? Or do i put the oils elsewhere?

3. When is exhaust smoke supposed to come out? All the time or only on 100% throttle? On mine it comes out pretty much most of the time except low throttle.

4. What is the best tire combo to use on the regular street? i am just messing around outside my house . Some have said slicks, hard in ft and soft in rear. Others have said treaded and others say use the Take Off ones.

5. When running a full tank of gas and checking the head after, the head seems to be very hot. I did the spit test and it evaporates 2-3 seconds later. I am running it rich...2 1/4 turns from closed???

6. Are aluminum hop ups necessary or is it mainly for race applications. Also what hop ups are recomended?

Thank you for all your help, Jason
Old 09-24-2002 | 02:31 PM
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Default Help on GT4 RTR

I hope I can help ya a little

1-If the engine reeves up and the car doesn't move at first
then it could be the Slipper or the Differential, most guys that race tighten them both all the way up so they don’t slip at all.
I run mine tight/no slip at all

2- glow plug is good but you can pull the air filter off and put some in the carb too.

3- you want to see the smoke almost all the time. Most times you wont see much at idle.

4-for goofy around I use Dirt hawgs, they work well on pavement and dirt/grass.

5-you should check you engine temp after running the truck about a minute, don't wait until the engine has run for 5-6 minutes. if it too hot that will shorten the life of you engine.
I recommend if your going to be into nitro cars, buy a Raytec temp gun
the cost around $75 but they will pay for themselves in the long run

The associated engine is very tough, but try to keep it under 230
deg.s

6- the aluminum parts are mostly for show, the parts that bolt directly to the chassis are the one you want aluminum, Bulkheads, pivot blocks, servo mounts, etc. these parts have a tendency to come loose over time, you can use "loctite" on the aluminum parts and they will stay tight, you'll never see a top racer with all aluminum parts on his car, you want the car to have some "give" or else it will bend and or break.
Old 09-24-2002 | 02:40 PM
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Default Help on GT4 RTR

scale 4 me: you have good advice, but he doesn't have a RC10 GT... He has a Yokomo GT4.

As for JPmotdyn... i think that your clutch springs might be too strong, and that the clutch needs to have a lot of rpm's to get going. If this is the case, take off your engine, remove the clutchbell, and clutch shoes and a. get new clutch springs or b. shave some material off the clutch shoe (only about 1mm at a time) remove the material and replace. You can always take away the material, but you can't add some more on.
As for the tires, i use HPI treaded tires because i run on dusty concrete and the treads kick out dust and rocks very well.
L8r,
Garrett

PS. I have been looking at buying one of these, do you like it except for this problem?
Old 09-24-2002 | 10:14 PM
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Default Help on GT4 RTR

Oops my bad
there I go shooting off my mouth before I read carfully
I just saw the gt part
Old 09-24-2002 | 10:20 PM
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Gmanlusk2004 : I love the car. It is my first nitro rc car. I am debating whether to hop it up or leave it as is. It is already pretty darn quick !! The only downside is where i live no one stocks Yokomo parts.

BTW Thanks for the help
Old 09-25-2002 | 01:42 AM
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Default Help on GT4 RTR

No prob, bob.
Garrett

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