I need an expert on why my car cuts out
05-13-2007, 06:41 AM
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I need an expert on why my car cuts out
Hi ther,
I have just brought a Smartech Winner Sport and am having real troubles. I think the car is running to rich as it is spittin out fuel; however my main issie is when i full throttle it, it is cuttin out and will not stay on full. I am really confused in what to do, everytime i try to re ajust the car i just usually make things worse. I would love some help with this.
I have just brought a Smartech Winner Sport and am having real troubles. I think the car is running to rich as it is spittin out fuel; however my main issie is when i full throttle it, it is cuttin out and will not stay on full. I am really confused in what to do, everytime i try to re ajust the car i just usually make things worse. I would love some help with this.
05-13-2007, 06:52 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
ok first of all set your needles to the factory settings, once you have done this and it is still spittin fuel turn the high speed needle clockwise (a tiiinnnnyyy bit like 1/18 of a turn) but not to much otherwise you will ruin your engine assuming you are still breakin it in.
Basically turn it enough so its still blowing smoke and a bit of fuel/oil just to be on the safe side.
If you need anymore help or i wasnt clear enough just ask for more help.
Hope this helps.
Basically turn it enough so its still blowing smoke and a bit of fuel/oil just to be on the safe side.
If you need anymore help or i wasnt clear enough just ask for more help.
Hope this helps.
05-13-2007, 06:54 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
Hi there thanks for this, i am nit sure about the factory settings because the instructions are useless. Do u know why my engin is cutting out?
05-13-2007, 09:09 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
yes the engine is probably cutting out because there is too much fuel in the cylnder=rich high speed needle setting. if you read your instructions they SHOULD tell you exactly what the factory needle settings are.
If you can tell me exactly what engine you are running (name, brand and size of engine eg, .12, .15, .18, .21 etc) i might be able to tell you everything you need to know.
If you can tell me exactly what engine you are running (name, brand and size of engine eg, .12, .15, .18, .21 etc) i might be able to tell you everything you need to know.
05-13-2007, 10:12 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
Your engine is cutting out becuase its too rich. If your still breakign it in you wanna set the needles back to factory, and turn both the high and low speed needles in around 1/8th of a turn. You seem to be a beggienr at this, so ill post a great tutorial on how to really break-in an engine.
05-13-2007, 10:32 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
This is a long and in-depth comprehensive tutorial on breaking in an engine. There are a few steps in here (IE:Heating engine before starting), that aren’t necessary unless for that example your engine is tight enough you cant turn it over with whatever starting system your using. ALSO, some people recommend to many beginners not to get a temp gun, and that temps don’t make a difference, people, who say that aren’t taking in the fact that its takes quite a bit of time to learn by sound and feel when your engine is running correctly, and many beginners can’t do this. Having a temp gun makes things way way easier, and for break-in they are practically necessary, even for someone with a lot of experience.
Before Starting: Apart from some pretty rare chance your engine needles should be set from the factory, but that’s not where you want to break the engine in. You wanna turn the HSN (High-Speed Needle) in around 1/16th of a turn, and the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) also 1/16th of turn. Remember it’s just a very small turn. Ok, now when your breaking in an engine a lot of people run it around a little rich, and slowly like your supposed to, but they don’t realize even though they might have turned the needles in just a bit there engine is still going to be running way below the temperature needed to get the metals to seat correctly. This would be the around, or a bit lower then the temperature your engine will be running later, so right now you want your engine to be running in the 200-220 range. To make sure that your engine reaches the correct temperatures while still being run slowly, a really god way is to use some aluminum tape and wrap some around the engine head, covering about 3/4th of the cooling fins. Now make sure you fully charge your glow igniter, check to make sure you’ve got a good plug, and get anything else ready to start the car.
First Tank: The first time you try and start your engine you may notice that your starter box simply cant turn over the engine, that’s because a lot of engines come with the piston and sleeve so tight from the factory, especially if your using a lees then perfect starter box, and the engine is a High-end racing engine. So grab a hairdryer (or even a heat gun if you happen to own one), and use it to start warming up the engine. Keep checking the engine temp as you warm it up, and don’t let it get past around 200. Now the engine should be loosened up enough to start. You wanna start it up, and leave it on the starter box, making sure your wheels are off the ground. I like to let the car idle for around 1 minute or 2, and then I pull the throttle in just a bit so that the engine RPM’s go up a bit, (you can even just do this with the throttle trim on your radio if you don’t wanna have to sit there holding down the throttle on your radio). Do this until the tank is ½ empty, and shut down the engine. NOW HERE IS SOMTHING THAT CANNOT BE FORGOTTEN THROUGHTOUT THE ENTIRE BREAK-IN PROCESS: Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this process twice total, you should run 1 tank of fuel.
Tank 2-7: Ok, now you’re ready to actually run the car. Fill the tank up, and again if needed heat the engine a bit with the hair dryer. Start the engine, let it run for just a minute or so revving a little bit more then idle. Take it off the box and put it on the ground and start running it. Now when breaking in a motor you never wanna pull the throttle past 1/2th. You don’t wanna make quick pulls of the throttle or brake. Slowly and smoothly rev the car up, hold it for a second and smoothly let out. You wanna do this on Pavement, every couple minutes check the engine temps with our temp gun. Make sure your running in the range of around 200-220, if you’re running the car correctly and it isn’t reaching those temps cover up more of the cooling head with aluminum tape. If it’s too hot then take off a bit. Run the car until there’s barely anything left in the tank (don’t run it all the way empty), and shut it off. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this whole process until you’ve ran the car 7 tanks including the first tank you did with the car on the box.
Tank 8-10: Ok now before each one of the next 3-4 tanks you wanna lean out the needles just a bit, and run the car like you have been, slowly, checking the temps because as you lean the car out you might have to remove a little bit of aluminum tape from the head.. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Keep doing this until the car seems to be running at peak performance. This USUALLY takes 3-4 tanks, but could take 1-2 more then that.
CONGRATULATIONS YOU’VE BROKEN IN YOUR NITRO ENGINE.
Before Starting: Apart from some pretty rare chance your engine needles should be set from the factory, but that’s not where you want to break the engine in. You wanna turn the HSN (High-Speed Needle) in around 1/16th of a turn, and the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) also 1/16th of turn. Remember it’s just a very small turn. Ok, now when your breaking in an engine a lot of people run it around a little rich, and slowly like your supposed to, but they don’t realize even though they might have turned the needles in just a bit there engine is still going to be running way below the temperature needed to get the metals to seat correctly. This would be the around, or a bit lower then the temperature your engine will be running later, so right now you want your engine to be running in the 200-220 range. To make sure that your engine reaches the correct temperatures while still being run slowly, a really god way is to use some aluminum tape and wrap some around the engine head, covering about 3/4th of the cooling fins. Now make sure you fully charge your glow igniter, check to make sure you’ve got a good plug, and get anything else ready to start the car.
First Tank: The first time you try and start your engine you may notice that your starter box simply cant turn over the engine, that’s because a lot of engines come with the piston and sleeve so tight from the factory, especially if your using a lees then perfect starter box, and the engine is a High-end racing engine. So grab a hairdryer (or even a heat gun if you happen to own one), and use it to start warming up the engine. Keep checking the engine temp as you warm it up, and don’t let it get past around 200. Now the engine should be loosened up enough to start. You wanna start it up, and leave it on the starter box, making sure your wheels are off the ground. I like to let the car idle for around 1 minute or 2, and then I pull the throttle in just a bit so that the engine RPM’s go up a bit, (you can even just do this with the throttle trim on your radio if you don’t wanna have to sit there holding down the throttle on your radio). Do this until the tank is ½ empty, and shut down the engine. NOW HERE IS SOMTHING THAT CANNOT BE FORGOTTEN THROUGHTOUT THE ENTIRE BREAK-IN PROCESS: Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this process twice total, you should run 1 tank of fuel.
Tank 2-7: Ok, now you’re ready to actually run the car. Fill the tank up, and again if needed heat the engine a bit with the hair dryer. Start the engine, let it run for just a minute or so revving a little bit more then idle. Take it off the box and put it on the ground and start running it. Now when breaking in a motor you never wanna pull the throttle past 1/2th. You don’t wanna make quick pulls of the throttle or brake. Slowly and smoothly rev the car up, hold it for a second and smoothly let out. You wanna do this on Pavement, every couple minutes check the engine temps with our temp gun. Make sure your running in the range of around 200-220, if you’re running the car correctly and it isn’t reaching those temps cover up more of the cooling head with aluminum tape. If it’s too hot then take off a bit. Run the car until there’s barely anything left in the tank (don’t run it all the way empty), and shut it off. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this whole process until you’ve ran the car 7 tanks including the first tank you did with the car on the box.
Tank 8-10: Ok now before each one of the next 3-4 tanks you wanna lean out the needles just a bit, and run the car like you have been, slowly, checking the temps because as you lean the car out you might have to remove a little bit of aluminum tape from the head.. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Keep doing this until the car seems to be running at peak performance. This USUALLY takes 3-4 tanks, but could take 1-2 more then that.
CONGRATULATIONS YOU’VE BROKEN IN YOUR NITRO ENGINE.
05-13-2007, 10:59 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
Thank you for this i will give it a go. The thing is i ahev not broken in my engin and this is prob why im getting problems.
05-13-2007, 11:02 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
I have a Smartech Winner Sport. I think its a .18. It is a 1/10 scale. So is it defently not that the engine into lean? I have brough a new glow plug for the car.
05-14-2007, 04:36 AM
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RE: I need an expert on why my car cuts out
Well that just about tells you everything you need to know.......but if theres anything else you dont know just ask.
ORIGINAL: Rs43EVOman
This is a long and in-depth comprehensive tutorial on breaking in an engine. There are a few steps in here (IE:Heating engine before starting), that aren’t necessary unless for that example your engine is tight enough you cant turn it over with whatever starting system your using. ALSO, some people recommend to many beginners not to get a temp gun, and that temps don’t make a difference, people, who say that aren’t taking in the fact that its takes quite a bit of time to learn by sound and feel when your engine is running correctly, and many beginners can’t do this. Having a temp gun makes things way way easier, and for break-in they are practically necessary, even for someone with a lot of experience.
Before Starting: Apart from some pretty rare chance your engine needles should be set from the factory, but that’s not where you want to break the engine in. You wanna turn the HSN (High-Speed Needle) in around 1/16th of a turn, and the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) also 1/16th of turn. Remember it’s just a very small turn. Ok, now when your breaking in an engine a lot of people run it around a little rich, and slowly like your supposed to, but they don’t realize even though they might have turned the needles in just a bit there engine is still going to be running way below the temperature needed to get the metals to seat correctly. This would be the around, or a bit lower then the temperature your engine will be running later, so right now you want your engine to be running in the 200-220 range. To make sure that your engine reaches the correct temperatures while still being run slowly, a really god way is to use some aluminum tape and wrap some around the engine head, covering about 3/4th of the cooling fins. Now make sure you fully charge your glow igniter, check to make sure you’ve got a good plug, and get anything else ready to start the car.
First Tank: The first time you try and start your engine you may notice that your starter box simply cant turn over the engine, that’s because a lot of engines come with the piston and sleeve so tight from the factory, especially if your using a lees then perfect starter box, and the engine is a High-end racing engine. So grab a hairdryer (or even a heat gun if you happen to own one), and use it to start warming up the engine. Keep checking the engine temp as you warm it up, and don’t let it get past around 200. Now the engine should be loosened up enough to start. You wanna start it up, and leave it on the starter box, making sure your wheels are off the ground. I like to let the car idle for around 1 minute or 2, and then I pull the throttle in just a bit so that the engine RPM’s go up a bit, (you can even just do this with the throttle trim on your radio if you don’t wanna have to sit there holding down the throttle on your radio). Do this until the tank is ½ empty, and shut down the engine. NOW HERE IS SOMTHING THAT CANNOT BE FORGOTTEN THROUGHTOUT THE ENTIRE BREAK-IN PROCESS: Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this process twice total, you should run 1 tank of fuel.
Tank 2-7: Ok, now you’re ready to actually run the car. Fill the tank up, and again if needed heat the engine a bit with the hair dryer. Start the engine, let it run for just a minute or so revving a little bit more then idle. Take it off the box and put it on the ground and start running it. Now when breaking in a motor you never wanna pull the throttle past 1/2th. You don’t wanna make quick pulls of the throttle or brake. Slowly and smoothly rev the car up, hold it for a second and smoothly let out. You wanna do this on Pavement, every couple minutes check the engine temps with our temp gun. Make sure your running in the range of around 200-220, if you’re running the car correctly and it isn’t reaching those temps cover up more of the cooling head with aluminum tape. If it’s too hot then take off a bit. Run the car until there’s barely anything left in the tank (don’t run it all the way empty), and shut it off. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this whole process until you’ve ran the car 7 tanks including the first tank you did with the car on the box.
Tank 8-10: Ok now before each one of the next 3-4 tanks you wanna lean out the needles just a bit, and run the car like you have been, slowly, checking the temps because as you lean the car out you might have to remove a little bit of aluminum tape from the head.. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Keep doing this until the car seems to be running at peak performance. This USUALLY takes 3-4 tanks, but could take 1-2 more then that.
CONGRATULATIONS YOU’VE BROKEN IN YOUR NITRO ENGINE.
This is a long and in-depth comprehensive tutorial on breaking in an engine. There are a few steps in here (IE:Heating engine before starting), that aren’t necessary unless for that example your engine is tight enough you cant turn it over with whatever starting system your using. ALSO, some people recommend to many beginners not to get a temp gun, and that temps don’t make a difference, people, who say that aren’t taking in the fact that its takes quite a bit of time to learn by sound and feel when your engine is running correctly, and many beginners can’t do this. Having a temp gun makes things way way easier, and for break-in they are practically necessary, even for someone with a lot of experience.
Before Starting: Apart from some pretty rare chance your engine needles should be set from the factory, but that’s not where you want to break the engine in. You wanna turn the HSN (High-Speed Needle) in around 1/16th of a turn, and the LSN (Low-Speed Needle) also 1/16th of turn. Remember it’s just a very small turn. Ok, now when your breaking in an engine a lot of people run it around a little rich, and slowly like your supposed to, but they don’t realize even though they might have turned the needles in just a bit there engine is still going to be running way below the temperature needed to get the metals to seat correctly. This would be the around, or a bit lower then the temperature your engine will be running later, so right now you want your engine to be running in the 200-220 range. To make sure that your engine reaches the correct temperatures while still being run slowly, a really god way is to use some aluminum tape and wrap some around the engine head, covering about 3/4th of the cooling fins. Now make sure you fully charge your glow igniter, check to make sure you’ve got a good plug, and get anything else ready to start the car.
First Tank: The first time you try and start your engine you may notice that your starter box simply cant turn over the engine, that’s because a lot of engines come with the piston and sleeve so tight from the factory, especially if your using a lees then perfect starter box, and the engine is a High-end racing engine. So grab a hairdryer (or even a heat gun if you happen to own one), and use it to start warming up the engine. Keep checking the engine temp as you warm it up, and don’t let it get past around 200. Now the engine should be loosened up enough to start. You wanna start it up, and leave it on the starter box, making sure your wheels are off the ground. I like to let the car idle for around 1 minute or 2, and then I pull the throttle in just a bit so that the engine RPM’s go up a bit, (you can even just do this with the throttle trim on your radio if you don’t wanna have to sit there holding down the throttle on your radio). Do this until the tank is ½ empty, and shut down the engine. NOW HERE IS SOMTHING THAT CANNOT BE FORGOTTEN THROUGHTOUT THE ENTIRE BREAK-IN PROCESS: Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this process twice total, you should run 1 tank of fuel.
Tank 2-7: Ok, now you’re ready to actually run the car. Fill the tank up, and again if needed heat the engine a bit with the hair dryer. Start the engine, let it run for just a minute or so revving a little bit more then idle. Take it off the box and put it on the ground and start running it. Now when breaking in a motor you never wanna pull the throttle past 1/2th. You don’t wanna make quick pulls of the throttle or brake. Slowly and smoothly rev the car up, hold it for a second and smoothly let out. You wanna do this on Pavement, every couple minutes check the engine temps with our temp gun. Make sure your running in the range of around 200-220, if you’re running the car correctly and it isn’t reaching those temps cover up more of the cooling head with aluminum tape. If it’s too hot then take off a bit. Run the car until there’s barely anything left in the tank (don’t run it all the way empty), and shut it off. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Repeat this whole process until you’ve ran the car 7 tanks including the first tank you did with the car on the box.
Tank 8-10: Ok now before each one of the next 3-4 tanks you wanna lean out the needles just a bit, and run the car like you have been, slowly, checking the temps because as you lean the car out you might have to remove a little bit of aluminum tape from the head.. AGAIN DON’T FORGET Every time you shut your engine down you must take off the glow plug, and by turning the flywheel with your hand make sure the piston is at BDC (the point where, when looking through the glow-plug hole the piston is as far away from you as possible. Then let the engine sit until it COMPLETELY cools down. Keep doing this until the car seems to be running at peak performance. This USUALLY takes 3-4 tanks, but could take 1-2 more then that.
CONGRATULATIONS YOU’VE BROKEN IN YOUR NITRO ENGINE.
