caseyddr

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the truck bodies are sweet dude, i have a picture with the body it comes with but its a beater bod, and pretty ugly IMO. I'd want something a lil more pizazzy anyways yah I gotta get a 2speed for it pronto before i get anything else.. there is a 15mph difference!! 35mph ---> 50mph with the 2speed in with the stock engine. Then I'll probably get an RBC5 to drop in the puppy. talk about dominating your MT class, to bad I cant afford a dominator chassis...

DSA.308

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Im sure thats a big reason the MP is more, it really is a buggy with truck body...OFNA knows it...probably one of the best handling MT I bet.

caseyddr

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The Dominator I think is better, or else it wouldnt have won 3 maxx challenges in a row :O some guy on here was selling the one that one the maxx challenge by paul coleman on RCU classified, i think its on page 3 of nitro section, its pretty sweet looking. stands a little bit higher than mine.

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

The dominator has the all blue aluminum everything right? THATS why you are looking at the aluminum A arms huh? Don't do it Casey, save your money for something else. I am a big advocate for A arms being the weak link. Something has to break and if you have nearly indestructible A arms, you have a big problem because the next link is going to bend...IE frame, Etc. Just think about it, I had almost nothing left on my TMAXX to buy that wasn't aluminum, except the A arms...I found some on sale and changed my mind after a really informed guy told me no. And I hit that tree and WASTED a A arm.....that helped too....was funny the whole wheel assembly was hanging by the turnbuckle!!LOL funny as hell...

WhiskyVR-4

I agree totally. Actually, if you bend the RPM arms (for the GT) they are far mroe flexible than the stock associated ones (I refer to the associated/rpm stuff because I know it better than I know the other brands).

Essentially, any time you have a collision the kinetic force has to go somewhere, and has to be absorbed mechanically by something. If your Arms are too strong then the force moves on to something else and can potentially do a LOT more damage than a broken arm (the rpm GT arms are only like $10/pair, MUCH cheaper than a chassis). Thats partially why they make the suspension arms for open wheel race cars (CART, IRL, F1, etc) in such a way that they "break-away" be design on impact and save the rest of the chassis/monocoque.

People always complain about constantly replacing broken parts on RC vehicles. Actually, given the scale speeds these things move at, its amazing they survive any impacts at all. Of course, the real solution is to not hit anything, but whats the fun in that?

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

You hit that one right on the finger with a hammer!

WhiskyVR-4

oh no! don't say that! I just bought a new place recently, and this weekend will be dedicated to building in the garage. First I have to build shelves to get all my crap out of the way, but more importantly, its time to build my RC "pit lane" and "hangar." I'm not looking forward to the sore fingers next week after smashing them repeatedly with my hammer...

caseyddr

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oh well, guess I could use the 200$ that it would cost to do that for that RB engine i want

DSA.308

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HHhahhahhahhaahw whiskyVR4. I had a Misubishi 1996 3000GT VR-4....oh how I miss that car.....

Yes dont hit anything with a hammer that you dont intend to destroy...or something like that....i think. Of course the Pit lane and hanger are priority #1.....Without the wheels and wings of R/C this life as we know it would cease to excist!

WhiskyVR-4

Hey Todd, ever heard of a company called GT PRO?

DSA.308

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I keep trying to explain to the police everytime they bust me playing with my rc, that to stop playing with rc is like their wife cutting them off from sex!

DSA.308

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No I havent....what is it?

WhiskyVR-4

Ah. GT PRO is the leading Tuning shop and aftermarket parts/turbo company for the 3000GT. Its almost all they do. I happened to have managed GT PRO for about a year, and developed the website www.gtpro.com so I know a thing or two about the VR-4 (far mroe than anyone ever needs to know about them). I also have a 1991 VR-4 with about $25K worth in performance work into it (650+ all-wheel horsepower and 10-second 1/4th mile times) and I have a 1991 Stealth RT/Twin Turbo that is pretty much bone stock. The stealth twin turbo and the VR-4 are mechanically identical. The only real differences are in the front & rear bumpers and the sail-panels behind the windows, but the engine, turbos, tranny, x-fer case, interior, electronics, etc are identical. They were even built in the same factory in Japan.

*****in cars. If only they made a lexan 200mm touring car body of a stealth or VR-4, my Nitro RS4-3 could look and drive just like my real cars!

WhiskyVR-4

Now the closest I can get is a Skyline. GT PRO actually owns a Skyline R34 GT-R (there are pics on the webiste under "team gtpro") that I spent a bit of time driving around. I have to tell you, I've driven just about every performance car you can think of, and nothing, I mean NOTHING impressed me like that Skyline. No Vette Z06, no Porsche Twin Turbo, no Viper, and no Ferrari comes close to the "total package" that the Skyline offers. Granted, in stock form its only about 340hp, but you can double that quite easily without even pulling the engine out and the handling.... oh the handling. Its just rediculous what computer controlled electro-hydraulic center differentials can do to a car. So anyway, I'm on a new quest to blend the right color of paint to get the proper Skyline Blue for my next body.

DSA.308

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My VR4 was Bankok Blue with black leather interior and the stock chrome 18" wheels. I had a HKS blow off and dual intake. I also smashed the second gear syncros out of second gear twice, under warranty. I know the new skylines have the same Getrag 6 speed how do they get it to take the 600+ HP?

caseyddr

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omg my jealousy is so high right now, Thats my dream car.. that or the Stealth, they are so beautiful!!! heavy for sure, but absolutely gorgeous, they look better than new cars from today!

DSA.308

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I know they are identicle, but in the 94-99 models of the Mistsu missle are the body style I prefer....The wing on the 99 looks a little like a shopping cart!

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

my dad had a 92 back in day, and he was saving it for me lately but finally gave in to buy himself a Crystler 300M :-/ i think thats what it is.. its there highest quality mass production vehicle.. i am so jealous.

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

I just sighned up at GT PRO I cant wait to surf this site, THANKS for the linky dinky Whisky!

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

I am having a VR-4 jones now...Whisky, if I had bought a boost controller how high could I have set the wastgate to open and be safe as to not be ruining the engine. I know the stock wastegate is set at 14.7 PSI (1 BAR). Maybe another pound or two? There is a company here in Denver called Tec Torbo that works on VR-4s too. He was going to sell me a different set of turbos that flowed like 150CFM more than stock or something like that. Never did get it dome though.....In 1996 the VR-4 costed $41,000.00! I bought mine used from a dealer with 21,000 miles for $33,000.00 in 1999. It was absolutely perfect, a motorcycle cop who was killed by a drunk driver owned it before me. Sad story about how he was killed....But anyways his wife couldnt stand the car after he died and brought the car back to the dealer, and I found it looking for a new owner.

WhiskyVR-4

Hey Casey, wanna buy a Stealth? The engine is getting new rings and bearings right now, and all new timing components, so its basically a new engine. Tranny, transfer case, and rear diff are all in excellent condition. I also just replaced the steering rack. Its a Black 1991 Stealth RT/Twin Turbo w/ black leather interior, and its in GREAT shape. I need to sell it so I can finish the work on the VR-4.

Todd: The tranny in the Skyline is made by Getrag, but its not in any way the same transmission as the VR-4. Totally different monsters. While the Tranny in the VR-4 seems to crap-out when you hit the 700hp mark (the viscous couplings tend to burn up) the Skyline tranny is known to be good for even more than that. The problem is, the skyline trnny holds 600hp all day long, no prob, but the VR-4 tranny gets clunky and unhappy around 500hp (even though it will hold 700hp all the way down the quarter mile once or twice before it blows)

As far as the 99, there is much more different about the 99 body than just the rear wing. It breaks down like this:

1990 (japan only)/1991-1993 = 1st generation. very angular and sharp, no major body changes over these years. VR-4s had the active-aero front and rear spoilers.

1994-1996 = 2nd Generation. much more rounded features, pop-up lights were dumped in favor of sealed projector-style headlights. door panels, front bumper, and rear bumper all get a makeover with a smoother more curved look.

1997-1998 = 2nd generation-B. The active aero is dumped in favor of a "hoop" style rear spoiler and the front bumper is again changed, but only by a little bit. Headlamp/turn signals are the same as 1994-1996.

1999 = its own deal, really. Big rear wing and different taillight center section go it, "fishlips" front bumper is added, and the headlamp/turn signal assemblies now become seamless with no bumper material between them. The headlamps themselves are shaped a little different anf feature "bulges" where the projector lesnes go.

those are the differences by year in the body styles. There were also various mechanical changes (although typically fairly minor) that do not always coincide with the body changes, and unless you really needed to know the nitty-gritty mechanical differences, I won't bother listing them.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

my dad had a stock (no twin turbo) 1992 stealth.. I jus loved the body style of them, way above there time in my opinion! How much, it just depends how much is given to me for graduation, and who knows, I am supposed to go to California late June for a graduation present from father, maybe I could check it out. But i wouldnt count on it as my parents are very greedy lol! I'm more of a looks driver though, i want something so nice on the outside with a reliable engine. Don't care so much bout speed. unelss its RC of course i want all the speed i can get outta these things (jus keeping it ontopic)

WhiskyVR-4

Actually, your 1996 would have had the factory boost solenoid set to 12psi. If you had bought a boost controller you might have been able to run between 14 and 15 psi without and significant detonation, but anything beyond 15 psi or so really requires some work to your fuel system to be safe. Just a comment on boost numbers, when you are in any mitsubishi car, NEVER BELIEVE THE FACTORY BOOST GAUGE. Its total garbage. Buy an aftermarket boost gauge if you want to know how much boost you are running. I had a boost leak the size of texas in my vr-4 once, was pushing only 6psi, and the stupid factory gauge still showed 14, haha. Its crap, and a decent aftermarket mechanical boost gauge (anything but autometer, they always read incorrectly) is only about $50 and well worth the money to know how much boost you are really running.

if you mean TEC, then he was probably trying to sell you either the 13G or the 15G turbos. I would buy a GT PRO turbo any day of the week before I bought a TEC turbo, but I'm a little biased.

By the way, GT PRO has a VR-4 thats almost done that is coming VERY VERY close to the 1000hp mark, it should be ready for the 3000GT/Stealth National Gathering in St.Louis this summer!

DSA.308

My Feedback: (6)

Any VR-4 is nice but in particular anything over 94 is the sweet body, athough the earlier ones look good too. I liked the Projector headlight...I like when people flash me their brights too...then I show them the real brights!

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

i wanna see a picture fo these cars post em u 2