this a good electric drift?
 

Total newb here, currently got a hpi wr8 flux 1/8, its a good car, just dissapointed since its a akward size no wheels/bodys fit, so i decided to get a 1/10 hpi sprint 2 drift from here: http://www.rc-tradingpost.com/7427-h...riftsport.html

So i got a few questions
1) is it a good car? My wr8flux was good, but it lasts about 30 minutes before something breaks
2) i noticed its a low maintenance brushed, how much do these break? My current one hasnt broke once with over 50 hours of use
3) can i replace the motor with a brushless?
4) what battery would you recommend for speed? I like speed :D
5) http://www.rc-tradingpost.com/hpi3319.html there is 3 types of this wheel, 3mm offset, 6mm and 9mm, what does this mean?
6) finally, if i put touring car tires on it how well would it handle? And what speeds could it possibly get to


Again sorry for the questions, i understand if no one helps :p, but im a total newb right now

Its belt drive unless you plan to make sure the place you are running is clean (like take a broom and sweep the parking lot) go shaft drive. Cause if a pebble gets knocked up it will snap the belt.


Here are 2 of them for $239
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBLWF&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBKFJ&P=ML

Could just buy your own body, and paint it for an additional $25, and still have the original one to trash while driving for when it flips.

Also drift cars you don't want BL in from my understanding as it makes them almost impossible to control


Honestly if you like speed I'd just get a Touring car as a drift car won't quench that thirst.

If I was buying another on-road I'd personally get http://www.ofnawarehouse.com/product...964tdm2j6e0dl5 and buy a brushless setup. Honestly I've almost pulled the trigger on it a few times, but every time I do I think about how little I use my on-road I own due to streets, and parking lots around me being in crap shape.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-e...print-2-a.html few people talk about the jl10e vs the spirit 2 here just note the last post in it was about a year ago ;)

Can you link me to the cheaper place? And how would i convert it to shaft drive?

And yeah, only reason i looked at rctradingpost is simply because im a skyline lover and they seem to be the only place doing skylines

I just dusted off my old drift car tonight and the brushed power is plenty for good, smile inducing drift fun.

See the issue is im in the uk, not many places to go for speed, and i love drift more than speed

Also the skyline r34 gtr body is a must,

I been looking around and the cheapest i can find in uk including shipping is £199, cheapest in us is like £220 with body i like, £200 without, and the shipping for body alone is £35 from us to uk

Also what did you mean by BL?

Yeah, i just hear they break alot more than brushless

Much rather have hpi since i know them, there is a store close to me that is pretty much 100% hpi, has everything, just there RTR setups are like full retail price, so i dont really buy expensive parts from them,

I just used shipping calculator on tower and it would cos5 $62 to ship to me in 7-14 days, or $121 for the other shipping option, this brings the total to $300, without the body i want, i think im just gonna stick with rc trading post and buy everything off there at once.to save on shipping

BL I mean BrushLess ;)


As for brushed motors breaking... depends most times they break are when they are geared to the limits (like in traxxas vehicles where they die a quick death). My nephews RC's are over 2 years old, brushed, and still run fine. I also have some in a few of my RC's and they work well with no issues.

Guess if you want to stay HPI then the Spirit is light years better then the only other on-road HPI sells which is the E10 (you would have more fun just starting the cash on fire, and it would last longer its so bad)

BTW I corrected the post I read the wrong price on that site saw the white $499 when I originally wrote it then when I looked closer I noticed the dark blue price.

BL= Brushless. Brushed is probably where you want to be for drifting, and they'll last just fine. Mine is 6 years old and has had PLENTY of abuse. But one thing to keep in mind - If you want speed, don't get a drift car. If you want to drift, don't get a touring or rally setup. Make sense? The two don't combine well.

Shame im in the uk, the shipping prices are just too high, but yeah i think im just gonna stick with the sprint 2 drift from rc trading post as its $60 shipping for the car, a spare body, extra wheels and tires and lights

Also what does.3mm offset and 6mm offset mean? I cant see a difference in the wheels

Yeah, i was gonna try drifting on my wr8 flux, but there is literally 1 set of wheels and tires that fit the akward size, same for body :(
Thats really the only reason im moving to a sprint 2 drift since there isnt any decent tracks but plenty of space for drift,+ i like to customise stuff to what i like, not be stuck on one body

Also if im correct the drift cars dont require a specific surface? Of course and smooth is best but they work on any tarmac road/carpart right?

yeah concrete, smooth tarmac and carpet are all awesome for drifting

Nice, also do you have any idea how hard it is to paint a shell? And do clear shells usually come with the headlight stickers or not?

Also howmuch you think i can get for a wr8 flux with a snapped front arm? Replacement is like $5/£2 but i just cba doing it since i plan on selling to fund this car

painting shells hmm...
It depends on a few things are you good with spray paint? you will need to make sure any paint you get is for Lexan, and other polycarbonates. All too many times I see someone buy the wrong paint then start wondering why it started falling off, and looks like complete crap.

Now if you are not good with a rattlecan you can order Parma Faskolor (not sure if its available in the UK, but there probably is a similar paint) that comes in 2oz bottles. You can either use it with a spray gun, or use brushes with it.
My 1st few RC's I used it with a brush(the picture below is of my 2nd paint job with a brush), and honestly they came out great IMO, it just took a long time cause I put on like 6-7 coats to make sure the colors took with like 20-30 mins between coats(I also did tri color). You just have to make sure you mask off what you don't want painted with masking tape and take your time.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1954101

As for light decals yes they come with them. Also the unpainted bodies might come with light buckets you can use instead. I know my HPI Nissan 350Z body did I painted them with Faschrome (what Parma called the color), and used shoe goo to glue them into the shell after I was done painting it and let the paint dry for 2 days. Then put LED's in them so they light up ;).



As for the arm personally I'd replace the arm way easier to sell something that needs 0 work then something that has a broken part. Most times when people put something is broke on an item for sale(specially a part easily changed, and is cheap) I usually think if they were too lazy to fix that what else could be wrong.

Ah, ill just get one body painted, as i understand there painted from the inside so crashes only scratch the lexan and not paint?

Here is my current shopping basket on rc trading post: http://imgur.com/RqMMEmQ
Can you see anything i need? Batteries and charger are included it says

Also howmany cells and mah would you recommend as the max for the sprint2drift? Im not botherd about power/speed as much as i am a decent drift/it lasting long

My wr8 flux had a 7500 or 8000mah, 6c i think, and it was pretty fast, and lasted quite a while on a full charge

Ignore this, double posted by accident

It's best to do your first body in one color. That gets you used to the idea of how it works. The body will come with masks to cover the window openings so you don't paint them. Any hobby shop will have special scissors to trim the excess polycarbonate off the body. You can use other scissors laying around the house, but it's significantly harder to do.

Here's my most recent bodies I've done. I'm going for a common look between all my rides.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1954212

When you get more confident, you can make cool designs using masking tape. The bodies come with a clear film over them to protect against paint overspray on the outside of the body. you can take a sharpie marker and draw the design on the outside of the film, and then run the masking tape along the lines. The more colors you use, the more masking you have to do. Here's an Evo body I did a few years ago.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1954208

Any idea howmuch the paint cost? I only want to do one body so i domt want to pay more than it wpuld just buying the painted body :o

for a 2 oz bottle which is pretty much enough for 2-3 bodies its like $4-5 USD at my hobby shop
recommend just going to your hobby shop in the area and seeing how much they charge for polycarbonate paint as I'm sure it varies country to country

Ah, nvm then ill just get it prepainted :o, nearest hobby shop is miles away, may aswell get a pro job on it :o

most pro jobs are like $75-100 USD that I seen...
I said $4 to $5 a bottle can always order paint I'm sure some hobby shop in your country would ship it cheaply.

Yeah but trading post gave me a pretty good deal, £270 for car, nissan custom painted body, the usual camaro body, lights, 4 wheels and 6 tires, +the 4 wheels and tires that come on it are like £5 more than the normal ones, overall i worked out if i bought it from my cheapest place here it would be £340 excluding shipping, i find this quite cheap :o

Also a question, do 190mm body shells fit 200mm cars? Theres a few 190mm i like but im unsure if they fit