What is the best glue or technique to glue cerroplast to itself or to wood [yardsticks]. I searched several forums but could not find anything on it. I have also looked on the spad web sight but it seems there must be something better than flashing it with a torch and using ca.

Fred [email protected]

Actually, the torch/CYA method works perfectly. I have splattered SPAD's really hard and have never had a glue joint come apart. Just be sure to practice on some scrap coroplast first. It takes very little time with the torch.

I use contact cement, just clean with acetone apply on both sides and stick it together, Duro type in the bottle with the brush, But I'm going to give the CA a try on this next plane.

Fred, here is the method I use.

Flash each piece to be glued. Lightly sand each piece. Wipe with alcohol. Rub each piece with 3M adhesion promoter, these come in small packs just like alcohol swabs. Wait about 5 minutes to give the adhesion promoter time to dry. Then use CA about a 1/4 apart, DO NOT USE TOO MUCH, as this will only lenghten dry time.

Follow this method and I will guarantee the coroplast to hold. I have never had a faliure.

Kevin

If by chance you mean Coroplast, flash and CA is the least obtrusive way to go. In lieu of the torch, a good scrubbing with mineral spirits and a Brillo pad will also remove the manufacturing residue.

The problem is not with the adhesive, but with the fact that there is a thin film of oil/grease on all surfaces of the Coroplast. Once that film is gone, you can use Goop, CA, contact cement, even polyurethane glue to stick it together.

fredcz -
Iv'e tried some of the other methods, but really don't care much for the torch. What works best for me is to scuff/ dull the surface area to be glued with a "scoth bright" pad. Some people call it artificial steel wool. And then use E6000 industrial adhesive, I get it at Hobby Lobby craft stores (not hobby lobby the model store). We use it for lots of stuff it dires clear and is flexible, and very strong. I think Wal-Mart carries something like it call "Welder" ??? It come in tube like toothpast. The only disadvantage must dry overnight for strength. But is very convenient and strong.....

Thanks to everyone that replied. I've got quite a bit of scrap to experiment on. I believe i'll try the Hobby Lobby glue first.
Fred

Check it out!

I plan to build a wing from a single sheet of 3mm corro, seems it will be stronger only having one joint, but even this joint is going to give me problems, I don't really want to use a CA, rather a more physical means, like zip-ties. Any other methods?
Thanxz
LEDZ

The GOOP brand glues are the same as E6000, but the E6000 is usually a bit cheaper.

Lots of methods will work. Welder glue and goop are popular.
However, If you want the strongest joint -
1. flash the coro,
2. use a "woodpecker" to punch tiny holes in both sides to be glued
3. put small drops of CA about 1/2" apart on 1 side,
4. dampen the other side with a wet paper towell or mist with a spray bottle,
5. Clamp or weight the pieces for at least an hour.

These pieces will not ever come apart!

Twister2 - Where in OK. are you? I'm in the south. E-mail me.

You might want to try Handibond's new Plastic CA. The guys in Hawaii are using it exclusively to build with coro. The nice thing is it works without having to flash or do any of the harder preps, just make sure the gluing surface is clean (I've had some coro that was cut for shipping that came out of the shipping box with some sort of contaminant, probably oil from the cutting process). I just wipe down the surface with mineral spirits and paper towels. I've seen test sample pieces that were butt glued at 90 degrees and the coro failed before the glue joint!