What we have found is that the coroplast wings with the sharp leading edges turn on a dime the way they are. This type of airfoil is very sensitive to the neutral setting of the ailerons, which is why we stress the ailerons being set parallel to the fuselage for neutral. If the ailerons droop at all, you begin to have pitch trim problems, as well as tip stall problems in tight turns and loops. My guess (just a guess because I haven't actually tried it) is that if you dial in any "flap" with this airplane, you will cause your plane to snap out of the turns instead of the turns being tighter! But...if you are still willing to try it, I'd love to hear the results!!! I've been wrong before!

I am new to flying and i think this is just to funny next you will show me how to build a plane from my left over pizza box. thanks this is just too cool i will have to try and build one when I get proficient enough at flying

The pizza boxes fly great!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...ight=pizza+box

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...ight=pizza+box

Here's one built by T28-Man:
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Tattoo,
I want to thank you for the very complete plans for the FLAT BAT which you have placed on the Internet.
I have my bats and coroplast (4mm). I plan to build my wing with the flutes spanwise and will create several ribs to maintain the airfoil shape. What size and brand engine?
Vince LaPorte
Marshall, MN
[email protected]

Mag .28 xl is my chioce, but if you are going with an all 4 mm wing, I would go with more power shuch as a TT gp .42 Check out http://www.spadtothebone.com/ for lots more info and ideas! Adding ribs to a coro wing is tough and adds weight, and really isn't needed...check out the SNS wing construction technique.