I would like to build a .15 or .25 combat model but it seems like a lot of effort to build a full-fuselage when it would be much easier to build a profile that would give the same look in the air.

Back in the early '50's Sterling Models sold a zillion C/L P-51 Mustangs and Yak-15's because they were quick to build and you could throw another one together quickly in the event of a mid-air.

Combat models can have a short life so it seems to me a lot more people would be interested if the models were easier to build.

I just bought a new OS .25 FX, just in case I really get interested.

You can fly profiles in the open classes all you want.

In the scale classes, the issue comes down to what people think is "scale enough". Obviously you think a profile is scale enough. However, the majority of the pilots actually flying scale combat seem to disagree. Personally, I don't think a profile looks at all right in the air, the thin fuse is rather visible and noticeable except for one angle. But combat planes don't tend to say at that angle, there is lots of rolling and turning and such.

Now, if you really want to fly profile scale, get some guys together and give it a go. There's no reason not to do your own thing.

I don't know where Longwood is in FL, but there is an active group of guys in FL flying combat, including 2548 scale class. If you are actually interested, you might want to check them out.

And btw, a properly built foam combat plane is rather easy to build. And they are a lot stronger than most people realize. They can take a lot of abuse and be easily repaired when they are damaged. I have some scale 2610 planes that more than 3 years old and have flown dozens of rounds of combat. The wings get torn up, but the fuse keeps coming back for more.

I'm pretty sure the kits you mention are balsa-based, right? That's the wrong way to go about things in combat if you want a plane to survive at all.

Montague,

Longwood is about ten miles northeast of Orlando.

Do you hot-wire your own designs or use kits?

Seems to me cutting your own foam would be the way to go.

I need to make or buy a hot wire setup.

I have never thought of profile combat models until this thread, too caught up in SSC and Open B. This would work well with a foam core fuse and wing. A couple of fiberglass rods for stiffening, hardwood motor mounts, sturdy SSC style wing, and dang, you got yourself a tough profile scale model. Interesting...[X(]

If you do a foam profile fuse, it's not any harder to make the fuse a little thicker and round it off with sandpaper. maybe an extra 30min or so of sanding .

I do have a foam cutter which I threw together with parts from home depot and around the shop. It works for wings, but I do the fuses mostly with sandpaper. I cut the profile on a saw, then round it of with a knife and 60 grit.

Take a quick look at JKAerotech's website and you can see what is possible with out a lot of work. I think they have instructions for their kits on the web. The first scale planes I flew were JKA
P-47N kits, and they flew quite well.

If you are near Orlando, then you are only a couple of hours from a contest this weekend, down in the West Palm Beach area. I went last year, but for various reasons, I can't make it there this time. Last year they held two contests there, and if there is a second this year I might be able to make it down, depending on my schedule.

Dan , the state of the art scale foamy warbird isn't much more than a scooped out chunk of foam with just enough room for a tank and your radio gear, think of it as a "fat" profile plane with an inbedded arrow shaft or 2. Most of the weekly warriors [around here] are so beat up looking [even when new] that they don't start looking good until they're about 200 feet down range. The whole appearance argument is pretty humorous, especially with the surface area deviation allowed. The typical covering technique "du jour" is wads of packing tape with spray can paint blasted over the top [ if the paint is optional, nothing like looking at a pink foam warbird ]. I'm sure you have your special cases where some guys don't mind spending 10 hours of free time between contests to keep a scale plane airworthy and looking good for 60 minutes worth of combat time next go around, but it has been my experience that the average flyer is happy to just get the mangled pieces glued back together well enough to be airworthy enough for the next outing. If you want to compete with .25s, you'll need to get a red telephone that is hooked up to Tower Hobbies quick parts service, too. Most flyers end up with bags full of spare engines and engine parts, impaled servos, center punched RXs, etc. Might as well try to find a small group of local guys who would be glad to have another competitor of any kind, whether it be someone who wants to fly museum pieces or someone with scale profiles.