combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

That looks great Steve! I'll be looking forward to see how well you pull off the covering job with that metal tape.

Popriv

I can already see, I wish it had a dull finish.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I've read somewhere that it can be skuffed with a 3M pad or sanded dull.

A method I haven't tried yet is to take torn scraps of tissue paper wetted with glue and water and make a semi tough skin over the foam.

I've tried low temp iron on directly over foam and it never turns out very good....even though it might look OK right after it's done, it doesn't take long to deteriorate.

One thing I should make that would make sanding foam less of a mess is a vacuum table. That would encourage me to do more foam projects.

DaneMcGee

For covering, I've been using Avery A6 sign vinyl......comes in almost any color as seen here: http://www.signwarehouse.com/c-VAVA6O2410.html


Here's the discussion about it on the RCCA site: http://rccombat.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13401

Wonderful stuff. Sticks great, shrinks good, and very tough.....just wished I'd found it years ago

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I think we used to call that stuff "FASCAL" and covered C/L Combat planes with it. It's amazing what the sign shops are able to do with that stuff.

Some guys are using craft store cellophane misted with 3M77. It needs very low heat to shrink, but it is very flimsy [and light]. The thinking is that C/L combat planes don't have a very long lifespan win or lose, so might as well do as light a covering job as possible to increase your chances of winning. At least that sounds good in theory.

Popriv

Busy day.. looks pretty good. Has working ailerons.

How do you think this will fly with a speed 400 in it?

weight right now is .58 lbs

Don B.H.

    Avery is a brand name as is  Fascal or Gerber , 3M    And they all work well.
I covered my first SSC wing with it at my sign shop.  Never used it on C/L combat
planes. We didn,t have that stuff in the 70s
                                                                                          

GSJames

The Avery A6 is a vinyl product whereas I think that Fascal is a mylar film. I've got a roll of each. The Avery shrinks much easier and at lower heat than the Fascal, but since it is vinyl, it's "stretchy" and doesn't add much strength. Fascal it pretty tough stuff and adds a lot of strength to both foam and open frame CL Combat models. I may try the Avery A6 on some home-made F2D foamies to see what results I get. At least they would be something different from all the Believ and Wakkermann clones.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

It looks outstanding, Steve! When the sun gets low, you'll get some cool looking reflections off of it.

I'll bet it flys very strong as a "400" powered plane.

Popriv

I just checked the motor I want to put in this mustang is a 370 brushless outrunner from a parkzone decathlon...

Is that going to be enough?

steve

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I'm going to bail out on that question....I don't know enough about electric power.
They have a chart that helps you figure the "power loading" for a certain style of flying.
Your question will probably get answered 5 times in the first hour at the electric forum.
My "system" is to mount the engine, run it wide open and see if the plane wants to pull out of my hands vertical.....

Popriv

yeh, no stopping now !!

still4given

That 370 is not going to be anywhere near the power of a .15 two stroke. You might get there with a E-flite power 10. That 370 might fly it, but not with any authority.

Popriv

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I haven't covered a plane with that metal tape, but I think it's been done by anyone who has used the "Flight Metal" covering system. I'll bet the tape you got is similar.....but do a full range check by walking with the plane away from the TX and observe the plane as you walk with it.
I have done this with planes while they were running as a test.

Popriv

OK, I havent flown my "battle axe" copy yet ( waiting for weather) but I think we are leaning towards an all foam build along the lines of the mustang I've been working on. or one of the guys had a battle floyd kit that has a foam fuse.

The mustang I've been working on has a 32" wingspan and weighs 1.2 lbs with no engine or electronics.

What wingspan/weight would I have to make this to fly with a .15 glow engine on it?

Steve

Montague

The battle floyd isn't bad, but you'd do better to modifiy it a bunch. If you look at my Rapier instructions at www.MidAtlanticCombat.com and steal what you want from there, you'll get a much better end result.

I assume you're asking about the .15 on a foam core fuse for an SSC-type plane? for SSC class with the minimum weight of 2.5lbs, you want about 64" wingspan and a bit more than 600sqin. If you want to keep the weight down, and won't be using SSC rules with the 8x3 prop and limited RPM, then the same fuse will go a lot faster with a 48" wing and a weight just under 2lbs. That's basically what I used to do when we flew Open A class around here for several years, back before SSC existed.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

My standard .15 RC "hotrod" was [is] to take an unused 1/2A C/L foamie wing with about 32-34" of span and mount it on the smallest balsa fuselage I could come up with. At less than 28 ozs, a OS .15 will haul your plane like it's a .155 Howitzer round.
Not so good for combat, but lots of fun.

Popriv

Well then, the mustang would fit that profile?? 32" wingspan and about 1.3 lbs (minus the motor and electronics) .... chop the nose off and mount the .15??

not for combat but for fun.. I was thinking I had to make it bigger for the .15?



Steve

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

.......well, you could if the wing is beefed up enough. I folded one wing that had balsa spars and almost folded another one after that until I added enough wood. The wing that folded gave no warning, it just exploded straight overhead. Those wings worked very well with 5 oz C/L combat planes, but needed full depth balsa spar out to mid span. From mid span to the tips, full depth spars aren't needed. I think 3/16"x 3/16" spruce spars top and bottom would work, or just a single 3/16" FG tube spar inbedded.
A good prop for a plane this small is the 6.5x5.5...you'll see impressive speed if the plane is left clean and simple.

Popriv

She flew yesterday!
3/4 throttle, on 2nd thought, I bumped it up to full throttle... Gave it a good toss and she flew out straight and level !! Climbed straight out, nice and easy to the far side of the field.
Rolled into a left turn and as it was coming back to me it was slowly diving. It took full elevator to tevel it off. I switched to high rates on elevator and it seemed pretty good then...
I didnt adjust any trims, alierons were good but it seemed to want to dive if I wasnt careful.
I flew 5-6 times around the field then brought it in. cut the engine and it glided in pretty well. Finally did not break the prop on landing! Next time I think if I have more speed I can give it a little flare at the end to keep the nose up at touchdown.???

Gonna head out to the club field in a couple hours to get some test flights in. Hard to tell anything from that first flight..

Nice to see it fly!!

thanks

Steve