I am attempting to make my own 2-speed shaft driven chassis since nobody makes one. Belts are o.k. but do require maintenance and I have ALWAYS had excellent results using shaft driven cars sooooo that is why I am doing my own. The chassis you see is not the final chassis. It is just a template for the carbon fiber piece or aluminum. The clutch is not the final one either as I am going to use .08 gears and a Mugen centex clutch system with a custom made aluminum clutch pad. I never got to run 1.6's last year but then too I got the power to do it thanks to ALOT of help from MODRODZ's input but it would surely be nice to get into the 1.5's with all these custom parts that I have made up. I actually was/am waiting to see what Urban Assault was coming out with but before you know it, it will be 2010 race season and I wanna test while I can in a warehouse that I use.

Brent,

What you have looks good. You have always done well with the shaft drives (CD3, LD3). That layout looks similar to the Walbern chassis, so you may no have to re-invent the wheel on that part. It does look like more rotating mass than the belt drive, but you definitly have the power to pull it with those new mills you just picked up, or that nasty .28.

Hope to get to meet you this race season. I will be putting more time and cash in this year if IMDRA stays around. It will be a lot of fellas after B & E's racing title.

Looks goods Brent . Is that a solid rear end or does it have a diff??

Thanks nitrorevo. The chassis has a little of Walbern layout but NOTHING matches at all from a Walbern chassis since the engine is turned differently and the diff case. The rotating mass of the diff is less than the large 40 tooth rear pulley and long belt plus this is all 1/10th scale parts to save weight anyways. What my thinking/thoughts are is that a big block .21 can pull these gears and they last a good while since the drag chassis is 2.5 lbs. race ready and a CD3 is about 4 lbs.

The engine that you see is one of my brand new Kangaroo's that Rick modded a few weeks ago while my other Kangaroo is on the Walbern chassis Pro-Mod. The new R03 and R07 both JP modded but then Rick did his other mods for drag timing and a secondary set of boost ports and he swears that these engines are stronger than the Kangaroos so we'll see. I'm loaded with engines now. I have 2 Xeonon's, 2 Kangaroo's, 1 JP R03, 1 JP R07 and 2 P3 .28 engines. All are RBmods and Rick says that my .28 will without a doubt compete with the .21's so we'll see this year because I will test it ALOT. I've got alot of neat parts that Rick has made me to test and I can't wait.

Yeah B&E got some things to iron out too. We talk damn near everyday and they too are having Rick to do some new engines for them since they won the '09 Championship using Rick's Kangaroo and Cordoba.

Hope to definately see you out this year too man. It'll be great to meet alot of guys from here at the tracks.

nitrohead, the rear diff has a one-way with a solid shaft that will go thru it and it has reciever grooves for c-clips to keep the axle from going side to side. In the photo, it just isn't installed as I don't have the axle(s) back from being cut down to fit the one-way bearing and also I have to drill a hole all the way thru the one-way and lock the shaft so the brake will work otherwise without locking it the brake won't stop the car = not good.

Brent is the 2 speed clutch Ofna or Associated??

OFNA.

I bought a completely new LD3 just to strip it of parts. Not too much but re-useable and not a bad chassis at all from the LD3.

Looks like a good design Brent , less rotational mass on the drivetrain lighter 1/10 scale parts should be reall fast!!

I sure hope so. I really want this shaft to work so no more belt issues and if it does run very well, then I will make another chassis and use two shaft cars and the belt one will be a sole back-up/test car.

I'll keep this thread posted on the build updates.

got the axle shaft installed and locked in place. Installed the 30cc fuel tank and just cut out a piece of cardboard to simulate the Walbern front clip that is on the way. Put the pipe/header on that will exit out the side of the body. At this point I am just waiting for my 12" x 6" carbon fiber sheet, new .08 gears, centex clutch, digital servos and some other smaller item parts so I can get this thing built.

looking good Brent thanks for sharing the build pics.

Thanks thunder. Hopefully I will have all the parts soon and get this thing tested by January for a big race we got coming up. I'll keep the pics updated as I build.

Wow !! You guys still racing Brent?? Your car looks great !!

No racing but I do have a HUGE warehouse to test in.

Well after a pain in the butt for trying to get my centex clutch to work and the tires not hit the gears with this set up that you see above, I ditched it all-together for a new design. It is a centered trans with a driveshaft to extend the motor away from the tires and now I can even bring the wheels in closer to the diff case and use my centex clutch and all without any issues. Of course the carbon fiber is useless unless someone wanted to do a chassis like I had but then you can't use a centex clutch but you can a regular 3 shoe clutch no problem. This chassis will use a side pipe instead of a boat pipe too.

Anyways, I will order a new carbon fiber plate tomorrow, cut it out to the new template and get this thing finished up and ready for some testing. Here's a few shots of it beside my Walbern belt driven chassis.

Very nice Brent, coming along nicely. Good luck with the testing.

Thanks man. I got alot done today with getting the wheelie bar mount installed, I got the body decaled, holes cut and mounted. Tomorrow I go to my local HS to get a $119 high torque digital throttle/brake servo, a $99 Futaba FS303 digital RX, a $45 Hi-Tec HS5085 MG steering servo, new fuel line, air filters and other odds and ends. I will get those things installed and then test the car at my job since we have a 800' x 100' wide warehouse that is smooth as silk. I just have to put some sticky stuff down to make a few test hits and then wait for the tracks to open here. I sure hope it runs as well as it looks to do so.

Very nice and clean build Brent. I looks well thought out. With the carbon fibre chassis and no rear bulk heads, on the surface it looks a bit lighter than the Walbern, even with the slightly heavier side pipe. You weight them both yet? I'm sure you have the matched pipe for your engine which IMO is better than the Macs as who knows the perfect length to cut those for max power, the sweet spot is small, and every engine is different. That along with the more efficient transmission and the very short header to get on the pipe quicker and for more top end, could prove to be a great combination.

If you don't get any rear chassis flex, this is gonna be one of your best projects, and you gonna run some great times to prove it.

I am taking the same route with the matching engine pipe combo. I have seen and read enough now to convince me that faster spool up and rpm with the right amount of torque, not over powered, but a good power to weight ratio yields the best results. Keep me posted on the test runs, and also let me know how the dual head button tests come out. As you know Rick is already doing my RB V15 and I have spoken to him about getting a kangaroo done later this month. I may do the head button as well, if the tests prove to make more power without impacting tuning.

Good luck man..

Well the new car is actually heavier. It comes in at 49 oz. whereas the Walbern is 44 oz. Both have fuel in them and servos. The reason the new car is heavier is that the rear chassis plate is much longer BUT I never made cut-outs in the chassis like the Walbern is. I know that if I traced the Walbern buts and did it so to mine that I could shave off 4-5 oz. The 1/10th scale transmission with the .08 gears rolls soooooo smoothly on the floor plus it is 22 grams lighter than the 1/8th scale Mugen trans in the Walbern car so less rotational mass is a good thing.

The pipe deal is definately going to be a side pipe this time. This 'roo on this car has already been tested with the pipe which is an 086 OFNA and ran GREAT. In my CD3 and 'roo, I got some 2.0's and the car was not stable the entire runs. It was making power and spinning the tires so 1.9's are there and this was with my 086 pipe and in a street car that weighs 4 lbs. minimum. There's a guy in Australia that run nothing but boat pipes and he ran a 1.604@85 MPH[X(] with a Novarossi 9886 side pipe and the reasons for the side pipe he said was the inconsisten boat pipe tuning and boy do I know what he means. I do have the boat pipe for now on the one car and will leave it there for now.

The dual plug heads do work but I will warn you that you need to know all you can about shimming the motor correctly or else bye-bye piston. The bore of the button is deeper than a standard button and sits lower in your sleeve which makes more compression than needed plus if not shimmed right, your piston will hit the button ever so slightly and wear the rod out on the big end.......ask me how I know.[] The tune up can be finicky as well because of two plugs and so far though, my single button that came with the engine has produced my best times because of consistency. The dual stuff is still out in deliberation as at the track it is really hard to test it when you are also at a race. I do know that it can make more power, it is just more tuning involved with the pipe, header, head shimming, nitro content, gearing, traction compound, carb inserts and all because of the dual button[:@]. Imma try and get it all together though and let you know.

Hopefully you get your Rody V-15 back and whoop some azzes around there. If you get a 'roo from Rick, you will have an instant low 1.7 engine and with more tuning, etc. you can run 1.6's as there are several of Rick's 'roos around here that run 1.65 to 1.78 ranges. It's just getting the rest of your car tuned and dialed in to make the engine do what it is capable of doing. Keep me posted on your stuff too man.

Great to here Brent.

A bit suprised at the 5oz. weight difference though. I here for every 2 oz. weight savings, that's .5 on the clock, so 5 oz. would be .15 on the clock. That could be the difference between running 1.6 and 1.75 if true. The best thing is that all of that will be negated by the .22 grams you save in the drive train, which is much more important to the overall performance of the car. As you said, you can always make the chassis cuts later in necessary.

I am in the process of reworking my car as well. I have a custom painted body on the way. Picked up a light weight receiver pack and new servos as well. Gotta wait for the closing date on my AMEX to place the engine order from Rick. LOL.

I will keep you posted.

well our quickest & fastest guy here in MD. has been 1.62@84 MPH with a Pro-Mod and a Xenon ALPHA and his car weighs a hefty 52 oz.[X(] so at some point, the weight doesn't make that much of a difference. I know the car weight that day because I weighed it for him with my scale. One thing that John has that I/we don't is a pawl second gear clutch where we have the shoe system that can slip. The pawl style grabs and doesn't slip at all. The goal is to get some 1.5's in 2010 outta a Pro-Mod "NITRO" ride and that would be a nasty, nasty ride.

John lightened his car to 47-48 oz. and it was getting airborn on the top end crashing alot. He got it back to 50+ oz and it stays glued to the track. I am able to run my car at 44 oz. and it still hug the tack but then too I aint running no low 1.6's either.

[/quote]
well our quickest & fastest guy here in MD. has been 1.62@84 MPH with a Pro-Mod and a Xenon ALPHA and his car weighs a hefty 52 oz.[X(] so at some point, the weight doesn't make that much of a difference. I know the car weight that day because I weighed it for him with my scale. One thing that John has that I/we don't is a pawl second gear clutch where we have the shoe system that can slip. The pawl style grabs and doesn't slip at all. The goal is to get some 1.5's in 2010 outta a Pro-Mod ''NITRO'' ride and that would be a nasty, nasty ride.

John lightened his car to 47-48 oz. and it was getting airborn on the top end crashing alot. He got it back to 50+ oz and it stays glued to the track. I am able to run my car at 44 oz. and it still hug the tack but then too I aint running no low 1.6's either.
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A whopping 52oz's. WOW!! That's dang near a pound over min. That Xenon must be a beast of a mill to pull that weight for those times. Never seen a pawl clutch, but it sounds like the way to go.

Checked the mail to today, and got the RB.15 back from Rick. Couldn't resist opening it up. PURE WORK OF ART, right down to the engraving on the crank. If the engine runs like it looks on the inside, I will drop some low times this season. Getting really anxious on my next engine purchase, so Rick can do his thang again. I wanna hit some 9's and 8's right out the box this season and go from there.

Good to see you got your engine back. You have actually a better modded V-15 that what B&E runs. I know as Rick found some more HP in the crank timing and did the same to mine.

You won't have a power problem getting the ET's you want. You just gotta know how to drive that beast.

The pawl clutch is one that has mostly a single steel arm that swings out to grab a pin to turn second gear. Our clutch style as you see your own, spreads outward to grab the hub and turn second gear.

This is a custom 2 finger pawl system.



Make sure you keep me posted with your car and engines too.

Looks nice -

are you able to adjust the spring tension on this clutch changer? looks good keep the pics coming.

The pawl system pictured is producted by Team Baja SkunkWorks, for 1/5 scale HPI Baja. Not in full productions yet still working out some bugs. They better hurry up however because FG is working on a 3 speed soon to be released!!