The best way to CS a Tamiya TA06?
11-01-2013, 02:30 PM
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The best way to CS a Tamiya TA06?
Hi everyone, I'm almost done with my ta06 pro chassis, I have the rear diff locked, about to install a front one way but I was wondering the best and most practical way to set my car up so it cs's properly?
what set up do I need and what is required
thanks folks
what set up do I need and what is required
thanks folks
11-01-2013, 03:39 PM
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Your request is my command! 
Firstly, One must remember the basics to CS.
For a belt-driven chassis (which is all we'll address here, since it's essentially unfeasible to CS most shaft-driven chassis), the pulley arrangement is as follows: The pulleys on a standard unmodified on-road chassis (or what is commonly referred to as "50/50") will have diffs that will have differential pulleys with the exact same tooth count, and likewise, both center pulleys will have the same tooth counts.
The mechanical modification to CS or "countersteering" is to change the tooth counts of selected pulleys. They are as follows:
Front pulley - larger, or unmodified.
Front/center pulley - same size as stock, or smaller.
Rear/center pulley - larger.
Rear pulley - smaller.
Now, a combination of pulley sizes can achieve any ratio of CS one might want, but the incidence of more parts to modify/obtain are increased by doing so, meaning that complexity is part of the CS process, and it is up to the individual how far they want to go, which brings us to the next subject, and that is the ratio for CS, itself. The higher the number (which is delineated by decimal), the more "overdrive" the chassis will have, meaning a number of things.
First, is that any overdriven chassis (meaning the REAR wheels are overdriven, or spin faster than the fronts) will be what is referred to as "squirrely," and the higher the ratio number, the more squirrely the CS chassis will be. This is in reference to straight line driving, which is why, in every Youtube vid one is likely to watch, every "track" CS cars are run on has no straights whatsoever.
A heavily CS'ed or overdriven chassis will also be harder to learn CS drifting on. This has been a no-brainer for all drifters who have dabbled with CS drifting, which is why it is HIGHLY recommended that novice drifters start with a lower ratio, somewhere between 1.40 to 1.60. Ratios of 1.70 or higher are usually run by drifters who are accomplished at CS drifting.
A higher CS ratio will also require other modifications to the chassis. As can also be seen on Youtube, there are a TON of home-made modifications one can do to a CS drifter, and some work, some don't. The point here is, not all CS drift chassis are the same, as no two people are, so just because something works on another chassis, doesn't necessarily mean it will work on all.
The best mod that can be made to a high-ratio CS drifter, is to increase the amount of caster in the steering, with a commensurate increase in negative camber (where the tops of the wheels are slanted inward).
I have included some pics, to show some areas that are addressed to CS a chassis. There are only three pics of CS chassis, and they will be the last three of the line up. Address any questions you may have by picture.
Firstly, One must remember the basics to CS.
For a belt-driven chassis (which is all we'll address here, since it's essentially unfeasible to CS most shaft-driven chassis), the pulley arrangement is as follows: The pulleys on a standard unmodified on-road chassis (or what is commonly referred to as "50/50") will have diffs that will have differential pulleys with the exact same tooth count, and likewise, both center pulleys will have the same tooth counts.
The mechanical modification to CS or "countersteering" is to change the tooth counts of selected pulleys. They are as follows:
Front pulley - larger, or unmodified.
Front/center pulley - same size as stock, or smaller.
Rear/center pulley - larger.
Rear pulley - smaller.
Now, a combination of pulley sizes can achieve any ratio of CS one might want, but the incidence of more parts to modify/obtain are increased by doing so, meaning that complexity is part of the CS process, and it is up to the individual how far they want to go, which brings us to the next subject, and that is the ratio for CS, itself. The higher the number (which is delineated by decimal), the more "overdrive" the chassis will have, meaning a number of things.
First, is that any overdriven chassis (meaning the REAR wheels are overdriven, or spin faster than the fronts) will be what is referred to as "squirrely," and the higher the ratio number, the more squirrely the CS chassis will be. This is in reference to straight line driving, which is why, in every Youtube vid one is likely to watch, every "track" CS cars are run on has no straights whatsoever.
A heavily CS'ed or overdriven chassis will also be harder to learn CS drifting on. This has been a no-brainer for all drifters who have dabbled with CS drifting, which is why it is HIGHLY recommended that novice drifters start with a lower ratio, somewhere between 1.40 to 1.60. Ratios of 1.70 or higher are usually run by drifters who are accomplished at CS drifting.
A higher CS ratio will also require other modifications to the chassis. As can also be seen on Youtube, there are a TON of home-made modifications one can do to a CS drifter, and some work, some don't. The point here is, not all CS drift chassis are the same, as no two people are, so just because something works on another chassis, doesn't necessarily mean it will work on all.
The best mod that can be made to a high-ratio CS drifter, is to increase the amount of caster in the steering, with a commensurate increase in negative camber (where the tops of the wheels are slanted inward).
I have included some pics, to show some areas that are addressed to CS a chassis. There are only three pics of CS chassis, and they will be the last three of the line up. Address any questions you may have by picture.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-02-2013 at 08:27 AM.
11-02-2013, 01:32 AM
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Thank you all this great information.. I think it will be difficult for me to find different pully sizes for my ta06.. Which is rather annoying as these parts don't seem as interchangeable as they would on similar chassis.
I already have all of my wheels positioned with a good negative camber, but I noticed you have the suspension arms at the front also at an angle, what does this particular position do? And can these two position changes be enough without changing spur ratios etc?
as a complete novice I might start off trying to drift my car when it is relatively stable as I think I would get totally infuriated if it was squirreling all over the place and loosing control
I already have all of my wheels positioned with a good negative camber, but I noticed you have the suspension arms at the front also at an angle, what does this particular position do? And can these two position changes be enough without changing spur ratios etc?
as a complete novice I might start off trying to drift my car when it is relatively stable as I think I would get totally infuriated if it was squirreling all over the place and loosing control
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-02-2013 at 04:05 AM.
11-02-2013, 08:26 AM
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You might try CS Junkies, online. There is a project they have there, of a TA06 that has been CS'ed, and sources may be available for the parts they used. The most common is Eagle Racing.
There are a couple of pics showing the mod for the front suspension arms, and that's to increase two things - caster and what is known as "front kick-up." There are a couple of ways to go about this.....First, is to get knuckles that already have 8 or 10 degrees caster in their design, which are available, but a bit hard to find, if you don't know where to look (I can help in that department), but in this case, I decided to do it without spending any money on extra option parts.
How it can be done with kit parts is to use all the available pivot block spacers that are in the TA06 kit. The second way is to use 4mm spacers under the front suspension pivot block, as was done here. The mod is NOT that easy, however..... When you do this, you will not have any adjustment for negative camber in the front arms. Refer to pics 1 and 4. This shows the mod to the front arms. Some plastic needs removal, so the C-hubs can move inward on their axis, and negative camber can be achieved. Not much plastic needs to be removed, because in the pics, I removed just enough to get the camber I wanted, which was 3 degrees worth. Pic 3 shows the new caster angle (8 degrees). The stock caster angle is 4 degrees.
What this mod will do, is increase the steering available, and with a CS chassis, that will be especially important for control. For a 50/50 chassis, it really doesn't do much, but makes the transition to CS easier, if and when you get there, because the mod will have already been done!
Sadly, no, to change ratios to CS, you MUST swap out pulleys, to do so.
That might be the best course, and for novices, it is also my recommendation. 50/50 and CS are two entirely different disciplines, and don't share much with each other, in terms of technique. To be quite honest, the only "benefit" to CS is looks, or appearance. The CS'ed chassis will look more like a 1:1 size car drifting (meaning the front wheels will be turned into the drift), whereas the 50/50 chassis will not.
And to give the simplest explanation of the two disciplines, with 50/50, you have to turn the wheels to begin, and maintain a drift. With CS, you have to turn the wheels, to straighten OUT of a drift.
There are a couple of pics showing the mod for the front suspension arms, and that's to increase two things - caster and what is known as "front kick-up." There are a couple of ways to go about this.....First, is to get knuckles that already have 8 or 10 degrees caster in their design, which are available, but a bit hard to find, if you don't know where to look (I can help in that department), but in this case, I decided to do it without spending any money on extra option parts.
How it can be done with kit parts is to use all the available pivot block spacers that are in the TA06 kit. The second way is to use 4mm spacers under the front suspension pivot block, as was done here. The mod is NOT that easy, however..... When you do this, you will not have any adjustment for negative camber in the front arms. Refer to pics 1 and 4. This shows the mod to the front arms. Some plastic needs removal, so the C-hubs can move inward on their axis, and negative camber can be achieved. Not much plastic needs to be removed, because in the pics, I removed just enough to get the camber I wanted, which was 3 degrees worth. Pic 3 shows the new caster angle (8 degrees). The stock caster angle is 4 degrees.
What this mod will do, is increase the steering available, and with a CS chassis, that will be especially important for control. For a 50/50 chassis, it really doesn't do much, but makes the transition to CS easier, if and when you get there, because the mod will have already been done!
Sadly, no, to change ratios to CS, you MUST swap out pulleys, to do so.
That might be the best course, and for novices, it is also my recommendation. 50/50 and CS are two entirely different disciplines, and don't share much with each other, in terms of technique. To be quite honest, the only "benefit" to CS is looks, or appearance. The CS'ed chassis will look more like a 1:1 size car drifting (meaning the front wheels will be turned into the drift), whereas the 50/50 chassis will not.
And to give the simplest explanation of the two disciplines, with 50/50, you have to turn the wheels to begin, and maintain a drift. With CS, you have to turn the wheels, to straighten OUT of a drift.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-02-2013 at 08:29 AM.
11-02-2013, 09:23 AM
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What exactly is caster and what is front kick up?
i have now just put in spacers like you to raise the front of the suspension arm, and I see it catches the c hub, as you described however I have it set at maximum negative camber anyways.
How much dud you shave off the suspension arm and whet did you use to do it ?
i have now just put in spacers like you to raise the front of the suspension arm, and I see it catches the c hub, as you described however I have it set at maximum negative camber anyways.
How much dud you shave off the suspension arm and whet did you use to do it ?
11-02-2013, 09:41 AM
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O.K., refer to pic #3.
See the upper and lower pivot points? Notice that they aren't straight up and down. From this side view, the top of the knuckle is angled rearward. This is caster. It allows the wheels to straighten, in a full-size car, when you let go of the steering wheel. The principle is not exactly the same in an RC car, but the effects are. What caster also does, is change the angle of the tire when turning left or right. The part of the tire that touches the road surface is called the "contact patch." The contact patch changes, the more caster a given chassis has, The more caster there is, the more pronounced the shift in the contact patch will be.
Which is why you need to also alter the camber. Negative camber will either offset, or enhance the effect more caster gives to the contact patch. The trick is, to combine the two, to get the best steering.
Front kick-up is where the front pivot block is higher than the rear pivot. What this does, is allow the front tires to more easily move upward, when they hit an obstruction in the road, such as a rock, etc. It also decreases steering effectiveness, somewhat, which is why the extra caster and camber combine to offset that effect.
I shaved plastic on the suspension arms with an Xacto knife (hobby knife). I shaved at a 45 degree angle, and test-fitted the knuckle, until I got just enough to have 3 degrees negative camber. I had to dismount and remount the knuckle a number of times, before I shaved enough off to get that 3 degrees. Be patient - it takes a while.
EDIT:
Have you checked out either CS Junkies or DriftMission out yet? You should really take a look at both, and see what others have done, to get an idea of what is involved with CS'ing an RC chassis. Good info at both sites.
See the upper and lower pivot points? Notice that they aren't straight up and down. From this side view, the top of the knuckle is angled rearward. This is caster. It allows the wheels to straighten, in a full-size car, when you let go of the steering wheel. The principle is not exactly the same in an RC car, but the effects are. What caster also does, is change the angle of the tire when turning left or right. The part of the tire that touches the road surface is called the "contact patch." The contact patch changes, the more caster a given chassis has, The more caster there is, the more pronounced the shift in the contact patch will be.
Which is why you need to also alter the camber. Negative camber will either offset, or enhance the effect more caster gives to the contact patch. The trick is, to combine the two, to get the best steering.
Front kick-up is where the front pivot block is higher than the rear pivot. What this does, is allow the front tires to more easily move upward, when they hit an obstruction in the road, such as a rock, etc. It also decreases steering effectiveness, somewhat, which is why the extra caster and camber combine to offset that effect.
I shaved plastic on the suspension arms with an Xacto knife (hobby knife). I shaved at a 45 degree angle, and test-fitted the knuckle, until I got just enough to have 3 degrees negative camber. I had to dismount and remount the knuckle a number of times, before I shaved enough off to get that 3 degrees. Be patient - it takes a while.
EDIT:
Have you checked out either CS Junkies or DriftMission out yet? You should really take a look at both, and see what others have done, to get an idea of what is involved with CS'ing an RC chassis. Good info at both sites.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-02-2013 at 11:26 AM.
11-02-2013, 11:43 AM
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Well, I've been to DriftMission, and there IS a CS mod for the TA06, but apparently, some parts they used are either perennially out-of-stock, or are discontinued/no longer available, so it appears that CS'ing a TA06 will be well-nigh impossible for the present. Since DriftMission is known for using a lot of "bling" on their chassis projects, substitutes probably can be sourced that aren't aluminum, so the mod can be done, but it would take a lot of researching. I also went to Ebay, and saw some parts that could possibly be substituted, but one will have to know which parts, to even consider a CS mod.
At this point, I would recommend pulleys and belts ONLY. Tensioners (which will also be a necessity for any CS mod) can be made with a couple of 630 size bearings, three washers of the proper size (one to space the two bearings, and two larger diameter, to "fence" the belt on the outside of both bearings), and a screw and nut of the proper size/length. The stand-off to attach this to can be made of any suitable piece of plastic that has the height necessary to tension the belt properly.
Another aspect that can be used, is to alter the chassis ride height. CS drift chassis normally run with a "nose-low" attitude, where the front of the chassis is lower than the rear, but I have also found the "Gangsta stance" beneficial, in some cases. The Gangsta stance is where the front of the chassis rides higher than the rear.
A 50/50 chassis normally won't respond to ride height changes the way a CS chassis will, but balance is everything, so it may help with overall control, and playing with either of these adjustments might help any chassis set-up. Experimentation with either adjustment is recommended, if a 50/50 chassis shows some instability or lack of control.
At this point, I would recommend pulleys and belts ONLY. Tensioners (which will also be a necessity for any CS mod) can be made with a couple of 630 size bearings, three washers of the proper size (one to space the two bearings, and two larger diameter, to "fence" the belt on the outside of both bearings), and a screw and nut of the proper size/length. The stand-off to attach this to can be made of any suitable piece of plastic that has the height necessary to tension the belt properly.
Another aspect that can be used, is to alter the chassis ride height. CS drift chassis normally run with a "nose-low" attitude, where the front of the chassis is lower than the rear, but I have also found the "Gangsta stance" beneficial, in some cases. The Gangsta stance is where the front of the chassis rides higher than the rear.
A 50/50 chassis normally won't respond to ride height changes the way a CS chassis will, but balance is everything, so it may help with overall control, and playing with either of these adjustments might help any chassis set-up. Experimentation with either adjustment is recommended, if a 50/50 chassis shows some instability or lack of control.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-02-2013 at 04:05 PM.
11-03-2013, 12:51 PM
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O.K., refer to pic #3.
See the upper and lower pivot points? Notice that they aren't straight up and down. From this side view, the top of the knuckle is angled rearward. This is caster. It allows the wheels to straighten, in a full-size car, when you let go of the steering wheel. The principle is not exactly the same in an RC car, but the effects are. What caster also does, is change the angle of the tire when turning left or right. The part of the tire that touches the road surface is called the "contact patch." The contact patch changes, the more caster a given chassis has, The more caster there is, the more pronounced the shift in the contact patch will be.
Which is why you need to also alter the camber. Negative camber will either offset, or enhance the effect more caster gives to the contact patch. The trick is, to combine the two, to get the best steering.
Front kick-up is where the front pivot block is higher than the rear pivot. What this does, is allow the front tires to more easily move upward, when they hit an obstruction in the road, such as a rock, etc. It also decreases steering effectiveness, somewhat, which is why the extra caster and camber combine to offset that effect.
I shaved plastic on the suspension arms with an Xacto knife (hobby knife). I shaved at a 45 degree angle, and test-fitted the knuckle, until I got just enough to have 3 degrees negative camber. I had to dismount and remount the knuckle a number of times, before I shaved enough off to get that 3 degrees. Be patient - it takes a while.
EDIT:
Have you checked out either CS Junkies or DriftMission out yet? You should really take a look at both, and see what others have done, to get an idea of what is involved with CS'ing an RC chassis. Good info at both sites.
See the upper and lower pivot points? Notice that they aren't straight up and down. From this side view, the top of the knuckle is angled rearward. This is caster. It allows the wheels to straighten, in a full-size car, when you let go of the steering wheel. The principle is not exactly the same in an RC car, but the effects are. What caster also does, is change the angle of the tire when turning left or right. The part of the tire that touches the road surface is called the "contact patch." The contact patch changes, the more caster a given chassis has, The more caster there is, the more pronounced the shift in the contact patch will be.
Which is why you need to also alter the camber. Negative camber will either offset, or enhance the effect more caster gives to the contact patch. The trick is, to combine the two, to get the best steering.
Front kick-up is where the front pivot block is higher than the rear pivot. What this does, is allow the front tires to more easily move upward, when they hit an obstruction in the road, such as a rock, etc. It also decreases steering effectiveness, somewhat, which is why the extra caster and camber combine to offset that effect.
I shaved plastic on the suspension arms with an Xacto knife (hobby knife). I shaved at a 45 degree angle, and test-fitted the knuckle, until I got just enough to have 3 degrees negative camber. I had to dismount and remount the knuckle a number of times, before I shaved enough off to get that 3 degrees. Be patient - it takes a while.
EDIT:
Have you checked out either CS Junkies or DriftMission out yet? You should really take a look at both, and see what others have done, to get an idea of what is involved with CS'ing an RC chassis. Good info at both sites.
Thanks for this, ok I get the camber and caster but not sure what the pivot block is and why that makes the wheels move upwards more easily?
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-03-2013 at 01:02 PM.
11-03-2013, 12:54 PM
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Well, I've been to DriftMission, and there IS a CS mod for the TA06, but apparently, some parts they used are either perennially out-of-stock, or are discontinued/no longer available, so it appears that CS'ing a TA06 will be well-nigh impossible for the present. Since DriftMission is known for using a lot of "bling" on their chassis projects, substitutes probably can be sourced that aren't aluminum, so the mod can be done, but it would take a lot of researching. I also went to Ebay, and saw some parts that could possibly be substituted, but one will have to know which parts, to even consider a CS mod.
At this point, I would recommend pulleys and belts ONLY. Tensioners (which will also be a necessity for any CS mod) can be made with a couple of 630 size bearings, three washers of the proper size (one to space the two bearings, and two larger diameter, to "fence" the belt on the outside of both bearings), and a screw and nut of the proper size/length. The stand-off to attach this to can be made of any suitable piece of plastic that has the height necessary to tension the belt properly.
Another aspect that can be used, is to alter the chassis ride height. CS drift chassis normally run with a "nose-low" attitude, where the front of the chassis is lower than the rear, but I have also found the "Gangsta stance" beneficial, in some cases. The Gangsta stance is where the front of the chassis rides higher than the rear.
A 50/50 chassis normally won't respond to ride height changes the way a CS chassis will, but balance is everything, so it may help with overall control, and playing with either of these adjustments might help any chassis set-up. Experimentation with either adjustment is recommended, if a 50/50 chassis shows some instability or lack of control.
At this point, I would recommend pulleys and belts ONLY. Tensioners (which will also be a necessity for any CS mod) can be made with a couple of 630 size bearings, three washers of the proper size (one to space the two bearings, and two larger diameter, to "fence" the belt on the outside of both bearings), and a screw and nut of the proper size/length. The stand-off to attach this to can be made of any suitable piece of plastic that has the height necessary to tension the belt properly.
Another aspect that can be used, is to alter the chassis ride height. CS drift chassis normally run with a "nose-low" attitude, where the front of the chassis is lower than the rear, but I have also found the "Gangsta stance" beneficial, in some cases. The Gangsta stance is where the front of the chassis rides higher than the rear.
A 50/50 chassis normally won't respond to ride height changes the way a CS chassis will, but balance is everything, so it may help with overall control, and playing with either of these adjustments might help any chassis set-up. Experimentation with either adjustment is recommended, if a 50/50 chassis shows some instability or lack of control.
How do the two chassis positions affect the handling?
Ps I haven't checked out cs junkies yet but will do..what did you search for and I will do the same to find whet I need?
11-03-2013, 01:57 PM
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Try DriftMission, too. They have a review of a TA06 there, that you might be interested in. I just went to both sites to see what they have, in the TA06 department. Not so much for me, as I have two CS'ed chassis already - my JRXS-R and a VDF, so I can relax a bit, and do other projects, before settling down to figure out how to CS the TA06/RSector. Like I said, though.....also try Ebay, for "Tamiya TA05 parts" to see what they offer for pulleys and belts. Most likely, you'll have to go Tetsujin for belts, at CS Junkies, unless there is a source for pulleys you can use, from either CS Junkies or DriftMission.
Like I say, it's going to be difficult, because as I can see, the only pulleys you have to "play" with, are the front diff pulley, and front/center pulley. I'm not at all certain there's a rear pulley/spur gear mount for the TA06 in the size(s) you'll need. From my own experience, you'll need at least 1.50 ratio, for CS to be sufficient to work. My JRXS-R is, for the moment, restricted to 1.32/33, and it really isn't a high enough ratio, but works for me, for the present.
If and when you find pulleys, put their tooth count numbers in the DriftMission CS calculator (it was DriftMission, and not CS Junkies, as I stated earlier), and the calculator will give you the ratio, by decimal. It will be a good idea to look up the tooth counts in the manual, if you got one with your TA06, but in the event you didn't, you can download the manual from Tamiya, direct.
You will need a larger front diff pulley, and a smaller front/center pulley. You can't do a larger rear/center pulley, because there just isn't any room on the pulley mount to do so. I think the largest pulley you will find is a 40T for the diff pulley.
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-03-2013 at 02:02 PM.
11-03-2013, 03:16 PM
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Thanks again, I did see a range of spur sizes for the front one way diff that is on it's way to me.....the spur that comes with the front one way Im getting is a 39 tooth pully.. But yes I can buy a 40 if one extra tooth makes a difference?.
why would I need different belts?
What would happen if I put a larger 20t pully on the outer front and left the front centre the standard 18t? Would that change things much?
ive found I site where I can a 20t pully for the outer front and a 13t for the front centre and this seems to be what the cs junkies car is running
why would I need different belts?
What would happen if I put a larger 20t pully on the outer front and left the front centre the standard 18t? Would that change things much?
ive found I site where I can a 20t pully for the outer front and a 13t for the front centre and this seems to be what the cs junkies car is running
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-03-2013 at 03:53 PM.
11-03-2013, 04:55 PM
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You need different belts, because changing out pulleys will alter belt length requirements. That is a given, in almost every instance. I got lucky with the rear pulley on the JRXS-R, but the belt has a pretty sharp angle to run the tensioner you saw in the pic.
Go back to the post I put up, for what pulley sizes to put where, above.
Look at the rear/center pulley, and the mount it rotates in. There is VERY little room there, to put a larger pulley on. The only way to get a sufficiently larger pulley on, is to modify the mount. You can do that, if you want, and by the looks of things, I'll also have to do that, to CS my TA06. The front diff pulley, at 40T isn't sufficiently large enough to make a difference, but when CS'ing, any advantage you can get, is advised, to get the ratio you want. Going from 39T to 40T will help get you to that ratio, since the TA06 has limited mod capability. Small, but necessary, in this case.
When you have the tooth counts on all the pulleys, get your ratio on the DriftMission CS calculator, and post what you get.
Belts are measured in millimeters, so this is how you find the right belt length - get the stock belt length (the manual should give the size), and for each tooth you go up or down on, for any specific pulley, add or subtract 3mm for each tooth. So, if you have a stock belt, say, that is measured at 200mm, and use a front pulley that is 3 teeth larger, and a front/center pulley that is 5 teeth smaller, you subtract 6mm from overall belt length, for a total belt size of 194mm. Got it? That makes things a bit easier!
Go back to the post I put up, for what pulley sizes to put where, above.
Look at the rear/center pulley, and the mount it rotates in. There is VERY little room there, to put a larger pulley on. The only way to get a sufficiently larger pulley on, is to modify the mount. You can do that, if you want, and by the looks of things, I'll also have to do that, to CS my TA06. The front diff pulley, at 40T isn't sufficiently large enough to make a difference, but when CS'ing, any advantage you can get, is advised, to get the ratio you want. Going from 39T to 40T will help get you to that ratio, since the TA06 has limited mod capability. Small, but necessary, in this case.
When you have the tooth counts on all the pulleys, get your ratio on the DriftMission CS calculator, and post what you get.
Belts are measured in millimeters, so this is how you find the right belt length - get the stock belt length (the manual should give the size), and for each tooth you go up or down on, for any specific pulley, add or subtract 3mm for each tooth. So, if you have a stock belt, say, that is measured at 200mm, and use a front pulley that is 3 teeth larger, and a front/center pulley that is 5 teeth smaller, you subtract 6mm from overall belt length, for a total belt size of 194mm. Got it?
That makes things a bit easier!
Last edited by ToraKitsu; 11-03-2013 at 08:15 PM.
11-04-2013, 04:22 AM
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Hi thanks.. would it make any difference at all putting a larger 20t pully on the outer front pully and leaving the front centre the standard 18t? i guess it would make a marginal differnece but not enough to makie it worth wile in line with my 39t front pully.
11-04-2013, 09:34 AM
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I'm getting ready to go to my LHS, but I tried the numbers for 20T and 13T center pulleys, with 39T front diff pulley, and the ratio came out to 1.54. With a 40T front pulley, it will be marginally higher. Sounds as though if you can get those size pulleys, the change would be sufficient. The thing now though, is belts.
11-04-2013, 03:19 PM
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11-04-2013, 03:25 PM
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I changed the position of the suspension to allow a little more clearance for the drive shaft too but the car still sits nice and low, I will also buy medium to hard springs on the rear to firm things up and reduce play
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-04-2013 at 11:42 PM.
11-04-2013, 07:27 PM
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It's kind of hard to tell, the pics being upside-down, but from what I can make out, everything looks tight, but O.K.
Now you can see how little adjustment range the TA06 really has. 64 pitch is quiet, though, isn't it?
How is your search for pulleys going?
Now you can see how little adjustment range the TA06 really has. 64 pitch is quiet, though, isn't it?
How is your search for pulleys going?
11-04-2013, 11:01 PM
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It is verrryyy quiet, it's so nice.. I have found the pulleys but will purchase at some stage, maybe end of the month as I have spent enough recently, I still haven't received all my bits from previous order. Ohh ok the pics are up the right way when I open them on my ipad but i see from my computer in work that they are upside down..opps ah well..
I will put a little space on the outer upper suspension hub snib to give a little more clearance for the 122 spur.
What springs are good for the rear for medium to hard? and is it best to keep the front soft? and for what reason?
in the ta06 pro extreme 2.2 what is the white belt that is on this model for the main drive belt?
I will put a little space on the outer upper suspension hub snib to give a little more clearance for the 122 spur.
What springs are good for the rear for medium to hard? and is it best to keep the front soft? and for what reason?
in the ta06 pro extreme 2.2 what is the white belt that is on this model for the main drive belt?
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-04-2013 at 11:57 PM.
11-05-2013, 12:15 AM
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If you want to stay with Tamiya springs (recommended, if those are TRF shocks), red springs (soft) for the fronts in the same length will do well, and yellow (medium) springs out back. The reason fronts are soft is to soak up irregularities. Since drift tires have very little in the way of traction, any irregularities will alter or interrupt the drift, so you want the softest front end you can go with. The rear having harder springs keeps the rear end from "grabbing" traction (drift tires, if they aren't great, will grip and slip with little or no consistency, which is why drift tire choice is vital, unless you have more than one set, which is why I recommended different sets to "fit" most surfaces) at a bad time, and again, altering or interrupting a drift.
The belt is just a different rubber compound. All are usually Kevlar-reinforced, unlike belts of old, so it really shouldn't matter what belts you get - they're all mostly the same.
The belt is just a different rubber compound. All are usually Kevlar-reinforced, unlike belts of old, so it really shouldn't matter what belts you get - they're all mostly the same.
11-05-2013, 01:53 AM
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Thanks for that... il add springs to my wish list then too.. I also did the front lower arm suspension mod (shaved some plastic) like you have, and it gives the front caster blocks a nice little natural camber. Would it be silly to go for the blue hard springs on the rear?
what viscosity of Damper oil would you use for drifting?..
what viscosity of Damper oil would you use for drifting?..
Last edited by R32GolfTA06; 11-05-2013 at 04:17 AM.
11-05-2013, 08:36 AM
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Like with everything else, having other options is good for everything, so having a full set of all the springs is the best, but the yellow springs will get you closer, if you only have cash to buy one set Tamiya does sell a full set of all color springs, which is what I recommend).
And again, having different viscosities is also a good idea. I usually stick with viscosities in the 35wt to 50wt range, and my own TA06 uses 40wt all-around, but the surfaces I run on might be different than what you run (probably so, because all I run on these days is smooth, treated concrete), so 40wt may not suit yours.
See? what you also get when you do the suspension arm mod, is more downtravel (the amount the arms move downward), since raising the front pivot block reduces downtravel considerably.
And again, having different viscosities is also a good idea. I usually stick with viscosities in the 35wt to 50wt range, and my own TA06 uses 40wt all-around, but the surfaces I run on might be different than what you run (probably so, because all I run on these days is smooth, treated concrete), so 40wt may not suit yours.
See?
what you also get when you do the suspension arm mod, is more downtravel (the amount the arms move downward), since raising the front pivot block reduces downtravel considerably.
11-05-2013, 03:21 PM
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Well this afternoon I bought a set of tamiya springs, blue yellow and red. And this evening the nice black alloy stealth body posts and the front one way diff arrived, so new items fitted and car is starting to look great.
Yes I did notice the arms drop :-) I can't believe I have been working on my car for almost two years and it's almost finished, I wonder what my next project shall be!, I will need something to tinker with
all of the viscosities I've seen range from 200 to 1000 I haven't ever seen numbers as low as 35 or 40 unless you use lard lol which has a similar reading as that!!
Yes I did notice the arms drop :-) I can't believe I have been working on my car for almost two years and it's almost finished, I wonder what my next project shall be!, I will need something to tinker with
all of the viscosities I've seen range from 200 to 1000 I haven't ever seen numbers as low as 35 or 40 unless you use lard lol which has a similar reading as that!!
11-05-2013, 03:30 PM
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200 to 1,000?
What rating system do they use? In the US (and pretty much everywhere else), viscosities start at 5wt, and go to approx. 100wt, 100wt being the stiffest action you can get. Anything above that is considered diff oil.
As a suggestion, I'm going to do an F1, as my next project. Why not try there? I am still educating myself on them (what model, tires, power system, etc.,), and I have always wanted an F1 in my stable, so thought I would go that route. Am considering the Speed Passion SP-1 as my first choice.
What rating system do they use? In the US (and pretty much everywhere else), viscosities start at 5wt, and go to approx. 100wt, 100wt being the stiffest action you can get. Anything above that is considered diff oil.
As a suggestion, I'm going to do an F1, as my next project. Why not try there? I am still educating myself on them (what model, tires, power system, etc.,), and I have always wanted an F1 in my stable, so thought I would go that route. Am considering the Speed Passion SP-1 as my first choice.