xmods drifting
#51
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RE: xmods drifting
ORIGINAL: mOnO n.s.G^
[sm=50_50.gif] im confused
ORIGINAL: FireStriker
But in my source there are no Xmod parts![:'(]
But in my source there are no Xmod parts![:'(]
[sm=50_50.gif] im confused
#52
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RE: xmods drifting
ORIGINAL: FireStriker
In canada, we don't have Radio shack they got a new store called "the Source".
ORIGINAL: mOnO n.s.G^
[sm=50_50.gif] im confused
ORIGINAL: FireStriker
But in my source there are no Xmod parts![:'(]
But in my source there are no Xmod parts![:'(]
[sm=50_50.gif] im confused
#54
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RE: xmods drifting
i have my tt01, but usually i only get time inside the house, so xmods are good for fun. they are good for practice because they are harder to drift, so when you get around to drifting your 1/10, it's easy
#55
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RE: xmods drifting
Yea Radio Shack was renamed The Source CC in canada.
BTW
I got a first gen skyline xmod yesterday cuz it was like half price at the source. It was for 24.99 CAD, and i found it very slow so i ordered an Atomic Standard Motor, aluminum wheel nuts (the plastic ones split to easily), and some ball bearings, all from atomicmods. Im planning to get a heatsink and white pinion gear set soon. Also, the source has no upgrades what so ever except for wheels, rims, and bodys. I cant find an AWD mod anywhere.
Heres some pics (i decided to convert the skyline to a nice rsx with foam tires ):
BTW
I got a first gen skyline xmod yesterday cuz it was like half price at the source. It was for 24.99 CAD, and i found it very slow so i ordered an Atomic Standard Motor, aluminum wheel nuts (the plastic ones split to easily), and some ball bearings, all from atomicmods. Im planning to get a heatsink and white pinion gear set soon. Also, the source has no upgrades what so ever except for wheels, rims, and bodys. I cant find an AWD mod anywhere.
Heres some pics (i decided to convert the skyline to a nice rsx with foam tires ):
#60
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RE: xmods drifting
Hey huys guess what??,
Today i went and got a Bearing kit and Stage 2 motor!,
The only problem is that they didn't have 4WD so im tryiung to drift with the stock 2WD with the diff locked,
Any Tip$!
Today i went and got a Bearing kit and Stage 2 motor!,
The only problem is that they didn't have 4WD so im tryiung to drift with the stock 2WD with the diff locked,
Any Tip$!
#62
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RE: xmods drifting
lock the diff with hot glue gun or super glue. i got all the upgrade except lowering kit mitsubishi evo 8. im a pro at drifting xmods i can drift perfect circles like tokyo drift .
#64
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RE: xmods drifting
you just got 4wd? i got all my upgrades before buying the rc car it saved me some hassle i rewound my motor so it would go faster than the ratshack's stage 2 motor, and it worked
#65
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RE: xmods drifting
ORIGINAL: 2WDrifter
i rewound my motor so it would go faster than the ratshack's stage 2 motor, and it worked
i rewound my motor so it would go faster than the ratshack's stage 2 motor, and it worked
#66
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RE: xmods drifting
Cool, but remember im not as rich as you guys!.....LOL!,
I lover rewinding motors.................Unless i screw up a new motor.LOL!
I lover rewinding motors.................Unless i screw up a new motor.LOL!
#68
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RE: xmods drifting
To lock it up I used the ol' Super Glue Method,
To rewind a motor, you nedd special wire and a motor to start with!,
Ill tryy to find a tut for you!
To rewind a motor, you nedd special wire and a motor to start with!,
Ill tryy to find a tut for you!
#71
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RE: xmods drifting
whered you get the 4wd?
when you rewind a motor what difference does it make?
#72
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RE: xmods drifting
you have to take the motor apart. and FireStriker, it doesn't matter how many hours is on it.
all that matters is the # of winds (please keep it above 35t or you'll blow your stock FET's) and the thickness of the wire.
here's a tut i found on xmodsource.com (Thanks RedSXmodder!):
I suggest that you do this to a stage 1-2 motor for practice. Or an old motor that you have no use for for practice.
Basically, when you rewind a motor, you make less or more windings of a thicker grade of wire. when you do this it creates higher RPM'S, or more torque. MAKE SURE TO COUNT YOUR WINDS
[img][/img]
Here we go
1. So first, you have to dissassemble the motor. You usually start with the 2 metal tabs on both sides of the motor. Oh yeah, if the motor you are performing this on has a pinion, remove the pinion so you can take the can off.
2.After you have accsessed the guts(inside of the motor), You will come across the armature which is the rotating arm inside the motor.
It has 3 arms in which wire is wrapped. I believe these are called poles
3.Each wire is soldered to a tab an the commutator. The commutator is at the end of the armature. There are 3 small tabs in which a wire is soldered or crimped onto, which is then wrapped around the poles or arms on the armature.
4.Desolder the wires on the commutator and unwrap the windings.
5.After that take your new wire of desired thickness(prefferably thicker than the stock wire) and solder (or crimp) the begining onto one of the comutator tabs. Be sure to scratch away some of the enamel coating.
6. Begin wrapping the wire in a pattern around the poles. Make sure that you have the same # of windings on each of the poles.
7.When your done with the first pole, move onto the second pole. Repeat for the third pole. Again, make sure to cound your winds.
8.After you get the winding done solder everything back into place. If you have been thinking about any other engine modification, now is the time to start working on that. Such as the neodymium(spelling?) magnets mod, or carbon brushes.
9.Lastly, put the armature back into the can, make sure the brushes fit comfortably over the commutator, and carefully insert the endbell.
More winds=more torque, and less RPM
Less winds= more RPM, and less torque
here are the images that go with it
all that matters is the # of winds (please keep it above 35t or you'll blow your stock FET's) and the thickness of the wire.
here's a tut i found on xmodsource.com (Thanks RedSXmodder!):
I suggest that you do this to a stage 1-2 motor for practice. Or an old motor that you have no use for for practice.
Basically, when you rewind a motor, you make less or more windings of a thicker grade of wire. when you do this it creates higher RPM'S, or more torque. MAKE SURE TO COUNT YOUR WINDS
[img][/img]
Here we go
1. So first, you have to dissassemble the motor. You usually start with the 2 metal tabs on both sides of the motor. Oh yeah, if the motor you are performing this on has a pinion, remove the pinion so you can take the can off.
2.After you have accsessed the guts(inside of the motor), You will come across the armature which is the rotating arm inside the motor.
It has 3 arms in which wire is wrapped. I believe these are called poles
3.Each wire is soldered to a tab an the commutator. The commutator is at the end of the armature. There are 3 small tabs in which a wire is soldered or crimped onto, which is then wrapped around the poles or arms on the armature.
4.Desolder the wires on the commutator and unwrap the windings.
5.After that take your new wire of desired thickness(prefferably thicker than the stock wire) and solder (or crimp) the begining onto one of the comutator tabs. Be sure to scratch away some of the enamel coating.
6. Begin wrapping the wire in a pattern around the poles. Make sure that you have the same # of windings on each of the poles.
7.When your done with the first pole, move onto the second pole. Repeat for the third pole. Again, make sure to cound your winds.
8.After you get the winding done solder everything back into place. If you have been thinking about any other engine modification, now is the time to start working on that. Such as the neodymium(spelling?) magnets mod, or carbon brushes.
9.Lastly, put the armature back into the can, make sure the brushes fit comfortably over the commutator, and carefully insert the endbell.
More winds=more torque, and less RPM
Less winds= more RPM, and less torque
here are the images that go with it
#75
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RE: xmods drifting
ORIGINAL: 2WDrifter
you have to take the motor apart. and FireStriker, it doesn't matter how many hours is on it.
all that matters is the # of winds (please keep it above 35t or you'll blow your stock FET's) and the thickness of the wire.
here's a tut i found on xmodsource.com (Thanks RedSXmodder!):
you have to take the motor apart. and FireStriker, it doesn't matter how many hours is on it.
all that matters is the # of winds (please keep it above 35t or you'll blow your stock FET's) and the thickness of the wire.
here's a tut i found on xmodsource.com (Thanks RedSXmodder!):
Sorry for the confusion!