im going to just try what you all do with your electrics..
cram it full of bluetack
my next thought was self hardening model clay..
i figured it would be practical because if i got sick of it,
i could throw it on the ground and it would crack and still have the gears and all inside
but i have no idea if this will work
im no expert
anyone got a thought??

here's the instruction manual of the diff.. thought it might help

itlll work but not as well as it does with electrics, just be sure to clean all the grease off of the planetary gears

You throw the diff on the ground and you will need a new diff..


I highly advise not locking the diff on a Nitro..
Excessive drive train wear and possible parts failure will occur..

You have to remember, the Blu Tac method works on Electrics to around 35000rpm or it just turns it into a limited slip as the blu tac wont hold..

my motor redlines at 31,000 though
me and a friend had an idea today
seeing as in theory it will work..
we thought about using silicone instead
out of a tube sort of silicone i could squirt in and let set
not sure but maybe

I would leave it stock and practice on Technique..

I highly advise not locking the diff on a Nitro..

That's odd. I know that the Yokomo Nitro Drift Package uses spools front and back. And there are Stage-D spools for the Nitro RS4 3. If you're gonna lock it, lock it correctly. Use some JB Weld. If you don't like it, just buy a new diff. You're using gear diffs, so they're not that expensive.

Why is that my SNR drift fine with a locked diff

It is easier to leave it stock and practice till you get the hang of it before you modify the diff. Once you get the hang of drifting and LIKE it, that is the key, then lock it if you want to. I fyou decide NOT to drift and it is locked, you can not use it for road course as easy.

Thanks
Dudelive

Thanks Dudelive... Covered it nice...

These are the kinda people you folks need to hear from....not me....cuz "im never right[sm=tired.gif]

I have added Blue Tac in my Hyper 10 rear diff, opened it up and did notice that the blue tac after 2 meetings at local hobbie track it did soften up! However it worked great, got much better power out of the rear wheels on my Nitro RC!!!

I have repacked the diff again with new Blue Tac, and cleaned all the grease i had in it before, ill see how i go next round and shall post some pics to see how its done....! I guess its a cheap way out of it - note no damage was found YET


cheers
MADCAP

Ok last night at the Drift Practice, we had Blue Tac in our cars once again! Was awesome for half the night, then noticed the rear getting how can i say open wheel as the blue tac did soften up a tab, thou still drifted better than some lame grease inside!!!

No signs of damage after 2 hours of pure thrashing!

Next will to put some adhesive, like NEED IT clay to harden it all inside so there is no moment inside the spider gears... besides that i finally after 3 weeks linked the track completly once, the next step is to get a balance of consitancy to do it over and over again!

Enjoy

Here are some pictures of the diff, after a 2hour drift session - note you can see how the gears still spin over time with blue tac inside, sure it looks messy, but next thing is to i guess fully glue it with some clay mould so that there is no movement inside!!!


Hope it helps

haha, use great stuff!! I bet that would work excellent.

I still cant understand why you even need to lock the diff on a RS4..

I Drift the Sprint 2 with fully stock Diffs and it slides awesomely..

Blu tac is great , you either get a locked diff or a LSD which is what you really need any way

Reduced movement is Ideal for Drifting.. Completely locked will make it very tail happy and ruin its race ability