Ok, i dont have any problem with locking diffs in shaft cars, but i have absolutley no idea how to do it in my Belt Driven ta05. Could one of you guys please explain to me how to do it (as detailed as possible), or give me a link to a good tutorial. Im sure its preatty much the same for all belt cars.

can't be much different then this,

IS there another way that doesnt invole me potentially ruinging parts? Isnt there somthing people do with fuel tubin and glue.? Im sure there are multiple ways of doing it, and i would rather NOt do that one.

You're ruining a $1 part lol.

If you glue, you're ruining the whole diff.

Ive never locked my diffs, but I have researched on it much

(This is for a bevel or planetary diff) Believe it or not, but packing a bunch of silly putty into the diff works excellent. It doesn't leak, the diff still has a minimal amount of action, and you can always just take it out if you don't want it anymore. And its bouncy!

Yes this is true. But he is using a belt system, not solid axle.

Here check out these tutorials, they may help:


[link=http://www.rcdrift.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=105]Locking a rear diff[/link]

[link=http://www.rcdrift.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1481]Locking a rear diff - HPI Sprint Style[/link]

[link=http://www.rcdrift.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3439]Locking Diff - Yokomo MR4TC SD Drift kit - Tutorial[/link]

hey ur locking a ball diff rite ? so take out the dirve shafts and in the diff cups you should find a small allen key screw which you do up real tight this is how i did mine.

Evoman, i got my TA05, goin for a drift with it later, tightened my diffs as much as poss but no-where near locked[]

I have ordered a front solid diff, gonna put this in the rear so total lock, hope this helps ya

silly putty or bluetak/presstik works wonders, but it sucks to remove

How would i use this to lock a belt ball diff??

Ok, graTao After thinking about it i might go with your way of locking the diff, but i would like some more details. What are the sizes of all the hardware used, and what size drill bit did they use to cut out the slot. And im gonna explain what you posted, and tlell me if its right:

After removing the diff from the car. You take it apart, and on both of those little plastic pieces (not sure what there called). You dril holes/slots. You do 2 holes in each one, and the holes are oposite each other. when you re-assemble the diff you take otu 2 balls, and in the place stick a blt, washer, andlock washer in there place. Tighten them down, and youve got a locked diff.


Thanks

ball diff? tighten the thrust screw (the thing that connects the outdrives to the pulley)

Ok, GraTao. Your way of locking the diff doesnt work, becuase of the way the dif is mounted into the bulkhead, so how do you lokc a ball diff using, glue, or some other substance. I dont care if it isnt reversible, becuase this car is strictly for drifting.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=17629

Just put it at the back instead of the front

thats a good part for racers who wanna be able tro easily switch from a solid diff, to a one-way to ball, ect. But becuase im drifting, and using this car for ONLY drifting i dont care if its a pain in the ass to change it back, becuase im nevee gonna do that. I know theres a way guys lock diffs using glue, or other substances, and i just wanna know how to do it.

Gratou's double screw method is about the only way I have seen to lock a ball-diff.

Yeah, you can tighten it to the max which still wont be a proper lockdown

You could glue it but it wont stay that way forever, the glue is bound to give at some point (prob right in the middle of a comp)

Its easy to lock bevels with blu-tac or something else coz you are just stopping the cogs from turnin but not so easy to lock ballbearings, most people switch to a spool at the back if they want a lock.

Well, i dont see why the glue (im including Jb weld in the Glue category) would work reliebly for shafts, but not belts. I just need to know where, and how to apply the glue, or jb weld, or what ever you guys use.

Well, on another fporum somone told me how to do it, but i stripped out my bolt, and i think the nut. Im preatty sure the plastic peice that the nut goes into is ok, but its surprising that the bolt, and nut would fail before the plastic piece. Im gonna try and pick them up tommorrow. What dimensions are they??

Guees you stripped it overtightening it, dont say you weren't warned, they told you the same on DRC, why you no listen, buy a spool

Yeah i over tighten it, so il order anoth one, no big deal. Its not like it stripped becuase of locking the diff, it stripped becuase i didnt realize it was catching the nut, and i over tighten it. Do you know what dimensions the nut, and bolt are??

Manual dude, MA7 2 x25 bolt, MA10 2mm nut, buy the spool, its 15 bucks!!

If you do find a way to lock it tho, let me know for future ref pls mate

what ive done, with a similar layout diff, is take the balls out, and tighten the allen bolts (and i threadlocked em just in case!), that is whats said in my Schumacher Mi2 manual, different car but same layout.

Well heres the way the guys who drifts in south Fl at our sessions said to do it:
This isnt mine, i copied it from a reponce he gave me on another forum

Just to clarify, a ball diff is a ball diff. It doesn't matter whether it's in a belt driven car or a shaft driven car, the only difference is the pulley. A gear diff (which comes stock in the TT-01 kit) is something totally different. They both do the same thing, but are built differently.

Here's my method of locking Tamiya ball diffs:

1. Take the diff out of the car and disassemble into two halves. Remove the diff balls. Go ahead and wipe the grease off of the pulley and diff plates. Clean the diff plates with motor spray or a little rubbing alcohol to make them as clean as possible.


2. Place the diff plate on a piece of electrical tape and cut off the excess. The tape is what keeps keeps the pulley from slipping.



-This is what it should look like when you're done:
Bare side:



Tape side:



3. Put the diff plates back with the tape side facing up and reassemble like normal, leaving out the diff balls. Make sure not to overtighten the diff screw.



Hope this helps.
John

Ok, well i recently destroyed one of the out drives on my diff, and becuase i glued it, these are the new parts i need to buy:
Diff out drive (parts bag S #1,2)
Little plastic piece that diff nut fits into (Part bag A #10)
5x8mm bearings (the ones that go inside the diff Part #53030)
Diff Plate (Part #50880)
36T ball diff pulley (Part #51212)

So, heres the thing, i realized the glu method works, but i plan on upgrading the out drives any way, and i noticed the spool linked to above is all alum, so it isnt gonna break. The only thing I wanna know is. Does that spool kit come with everything i need, do i need to get any of the partsabove or does that spool kit come with EVERYTHING i need?

[link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_720&products_id=176 29]Spool Kit[/link]