I am building my TT-01 and have read that locking the rear diffs helps alot. Whats the best method of locking them?

JB Weld.

The easiest way to lock (and also the easiest to change back) is to clean out the grease from your diff and put Blu-tac in there instead. Here follow this guide [link=http://www.ausdrift.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1596]-=Link=-[/link]

The JB-weld is permenant,

The other method will work great, I've also done it to my rides![8D]

totaly agree with FLOPPsy method, its the one i use...

^^^^You have alot of cars man!,

So you should have done all the methods and reviewed them for us!

In the diff, you'll see three small bevel gears and a little “Y�. Instead of mounting all three of them on the little Y, mount only two. Then take the third and wedge it between them, making sure they sit flush (they sit perfectly flush when properly positioned). This will make it impossible for the large bevel gears to rotate at different speeds, locking the diff up tight.

Look carefully at the picture.
It's totally reversible, with no messy glue or gunk to mess with.
When you want to unlock the diff, simply put the bevel gear back on the Y

Not a bad idea, Does it work good? is it relieble?

I learned to do this when I was building my rock crawler with Tamiya diffs and axles. It really works good and is very reliable. If it can handle rock crawler torque, then it should a breeze for cars. I locked my diffs in my TT-01 like that.

Cool![8D]

nice method...i once tried an elestic band method...!!!

i wrapped bands around each bevel and then set the in the case and added more to pack it out, what i found was the diff would lock the more i powered my car, so i technicly had controll of how tight the diff would get depending on the drift i did,

then they rubbed so much they all broke, but at the time it worked very well...

hmmm you know one I thing I'm curious about in regard to that method is in regard to weight. With the bevel cogs all on one side like that wouldnt it over time introduce some strange wear to the diff because the centrivugal forces would be wobbling the diff around. Maybe on a part so small it wont matter too much.

Also won't it strip some of the bevel gears?.

Did you put grease in after?

one bevel gear weighs as mush as a paper clip, so i doubt it matters.

Actually, even loosing a body clip that weighs 2 grams can make a difference..

I suppose this method would work if a little bit of Blu take was used to hold the gear in place??

I use the Blu Tac Method and has worked Brilliantly for over 2 years on my TT-01

if it's seated properly, it's locked in pretty good.
You don't need grease in there since there aren't any moving parts when everything is locked in.
Mine is locked like that and I haven't run into any problems.
Again, this is a proven technique used in rock crawling RC's. If the high torque motors used in rock crawling don't strip it, I'm sure it can handle a drift car with its slippery wheels.
By the way here's the RCUniverse magazine article where I learned it.
It's for the Tamiya TLT Rock Buster, but I noticed that the TT-01 used the same diffs and I tried it and it works like a charm.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=482]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=482[/link]