i was just wondering if the e10 is good. i am planning to buy the kit version. plz notify me what is wrong with it. cuz many people are saying it is not good, and is it its electronics? thanks

There's nothing "wrong" with it. It becomes "wrong" when you build it.

good call gratou lol

Ok I shall Start the List...

1.The Drive train wears loose and no mater how many Spare parts you replace, the Drive line is still going to be too short meaning you will have intermittent AWD.

2. The Motor mount doesn't allow enough movement to allow perfect mesh, so it always sounds like a coffee Grinder.

3. The Steering set up is far from accurate, one loose screw and the whole set up requires a engineering degree to fix.

4.The Drive line is Plastic with no Alloy option as yet, so you introduce a motor that spins at more then 19000rpm and the propshaft slaps up against the chassis making an aweful noise..

5. There is a collar bearing on the the Bevel gears at each end of the propshaft, this pops out all the time leaving you with either no drive or intermittent drive to either end..


Unless HPI wake up and realise this chassis is MAJORLY flawed and release a full alloy driveline upgrade with better designed bevel gears, this chassis is nothing more then an over priced Walmart toy...

Wow, this is a really good thread and probably the most comprehensive discussion on the e10. Thanks magnat for sharing the info. As a disclaimer, I have to admit that my E10 was from HPI. They're helping me promote rc drifting in Upstate, NY.

I've only run the E10 a few times and I have to say I am impressed with the way it drifts. Everyone whose tried it so far likes the way it drifts too. It'll probably take many more runs before my E10 starts to wear its parts down. How many more runs before it starts to break down, I'm not sure.

One thing we have to be mindful of though is that the E10 is an entry level car. Parts will wear down quickly. This is perfect for the person who wants to dabble in rc drifting and aren't sure if they will stick with it. The E10 definitely IS NOT, in its current form, for the person who has tried rc drifting, loves it and wants to stick with this chassis for a long time. BUT, as long as replacement parts or stronger replacements, are made available, then I see no reason why the E10 can't be someone's primary drifter in the long haul.

I'm sure the E10 isn't the only chassis out there whose gears wear out. Even guys with $300 chassis have to replace gears and rebuild diffs. The # of runs before anything needs to be repaired is probably higher on the $300 chassis but like anything in life, you get what you pay for. When you spend $150 for a RTR E10, you can't expect the fit and finish and durability to be as good as something like a TRF 416. Heck, I've had to do diff rebuilds on my Yokes as well as change spur gears. I've had a DP, SSG, Black SD and currently own a LCG and Rayspeed. It doesn't matter what you have. Everything needs maintenance work.

Question is, will HPI be willing to come up with those replacement parts or will they let other companies like GPM, Yeah Racing, etc. lead the way? Remember, HPI's target market for this chassis is for the new drifter on a budget. When they sell this, they've already made their money. Unless they see a compelling reason to release hop-up parts, it probably won't happen. This being a relatively new kit, let's see where this goes and how much support it gets from other companies in the next year or so.

Magnat,
How many runs/packs before your gears started going bad?

Gratou,
The E10 only comes pre-built.

Well, my understanding of the E10 is that it is being promoted as an entry-level car, with respect to hobby grade vehicles. Given that, It seems fine.

i have one, there's nothing wrong with it, although i feel it is underpowered, but again this is my first rc car so what do i know... I bought grip tires today to see if i could get more power due to traction and yea there's more power but its nothing compared to the nitro rs4's... but then again this is battery and almost maintenance free and great for beginners. i bought this because i wasnt sure if i want to stay in the game or not but if you're serious about RC and want a electric drift i dont see why you would get an e10 when you can get the sprint 2 drift. i say e10 is great for beginners or anyone who isnt really commited. it drifts real well and me and my buddy have fun with his sprint 2 and we crash into each other and such.

the sprint2 is a much better car then the e10. the e10 flat out sucks if your going to do anything other than keep it stock. you kant put more power in there or you snap the driveline. the sprint2 is a great car and drifter. my e10 just sits and wishes it would get attetion. im basicly using it to teach my 20 month old son to drive r/c cars and keep him busy while i drive the lst2. it kan handle some crashes tho.

just get a tt01 and be done with it.

Aries:
I didnt even get through a 2000mah Battery pack when the collar bearing on the Bevel gear shot straight up the Propshaft..
So I had to Rebuild the driveline with the " Fix" HPI sent me.. It was no fix... it still happeneded...
Since it required Dis assembling the car.. including removing the Motor mount and rebuild I did that..
The Plastic Motor mount is Horrible.. once you move it from the factory position, you never get decent mesh again...
I have tried all the methods for usual pinion and Spur spacing and nothing works.. You throttle the car, the Motor mount moves out of mesh and Bang... Coffee grinder noise from hell..
Then after a while the Saturn 27T (which is a Silvercan with a Sticker wrapped around it) lost all power with in 2 Battery packs.. This motor flat out revs to 14.000rpm when new.. Thats why the plastic propshafts faults are not found till you up the RPM..

So in went a Tamiya TZ motor, now this Improved the cars peformance and the stock Jolt ESC can Handle 21T motors so the TZ runs nice and cold on it.
But.... This then unleashed a Whole new set of problems...
The Propshaft has more Flex in it then the Stock TT-01 shaft.. it slaps around the chassis violently when you spool it up to 22.000rpm..
This inturn send the Collar Bearing up the Propshaft again causing the Whole drive shaft to move 5mm backwards causing the Diff and the Bevel gear to loose contact making your E10 essentially a 2WD with intermittent 4WD..

In short Aries, the E10 is good stock, but it will only be good till such times as you need to replace the Collar bearing on the Propshaft as thats when all the problems are unleashed..

I wont even go into the Dog bone wear issue which is caused by the Screws that hold the wheels on or the Steering vagueness.
People who want to do the Touring car to Drift Car conversion my Advise is don't as once you have upset the steering on the E10.. its a pain to try and correct again..

I got the E10 as despite the Flaws in the Sprint 2 , the Sprint 2 was an Excellent car.. it raced and drifted beautifully and I was hoping HPI wouldnt let me down with the E10.. but unfortunately, the E10, has let me down so badly that I can't recommend the car at all..
Unless HPI release an Alloy motor mount set and an Alloy propshaft kit... I cannot see this car being Sucessful at anything other then a Step up from a Tyco Drift king.

magnat i didnt know if you saw there a wheelie king now that has no electronics. thats what im picking up in the e10s place. all i need is a nice 600 can and spur and it will be a fun basher

I am going to rip the Electrics out of my E10 and stick it Back into my TT-01 and use it as a Street Drifter the Sprint 2 will remain my Track Drifter and my Cyclone S will be my Stock class Racer..

yea my sprint2 is my drifter also. when i was looking at getting the e10 i was also considering a wheelie king for bashing. well stupid me i got the e10 and regret it. if anyone would like to buy a brand new e10 let me know. i kan send tons of pics. its in perfect shape.

Which parts exactly need to be changed and which part #s? I'm going to ask HPI if they have those parts available for sale. I'll have to get those parts handy in case mine breaks down.

Aries: I have to be brutally honest.. it would be far Easier for me just to give you the link to the E10 Spare parts page as your pretty much gonna need everything on it within 6 months
http://www.hpieurope.com/parts.php?lang=en&partNo=10712

The parts that have caused the MOST problems are the collar bearings in part number
88000 - DIFF GEAR SET 15 / 38T

85614 - SPUR GEAR 65T (E10)
88011 - CENTER DRIVE SHAFT SET

Those will also be needed.. and my Diff is now playing up for some unknown reason.. it spins one wheel but not the other... so now I have intermittent 3 Wheel drive.

quit bashing on the e10.. there's nothing wrong with it. i drive mine off 1 foot high ramps and rally it around gravel, roll it, and scratched the hell out of the chassis, and NOTHING BROKE! i had the pinion gear come loose but I just tighten up the nut. And today I was hard driving, jumping the car,etc, my right axel popped out but it took me 2 minutes to put it back in. and now i put the ABS back on and im drifting again. the e10 is an ENTRY LEVEL car for newbies to enjoy without much trouble, and it performs to that perfectly! here's a pic of my new body

magnat, anytime you modify a car whether RC or real you run the risk of decreasing the reliability. so dont say the e10 is crap after you change a whole bunch of **** on it.

e10drifter.. I do hope you remember this post as in good time your E10 will soon deteriorate...
then when you are sick of the speed the Saturn 27T and go to increase the power, which all of us end up doing you will soon experience the hassle I have done...

till then I can only wish you all the best with your E10.. it is fine Stock... just don't think it will stand half a chance if you ever decide to enter into a comp..

The Only thing I have changed on my E10 has been the Motor... thats all... all the rest either broke on first run or became undone under normal use... nothing extreme..

Infact here is the Coffee grinder in action...
As you will see it has 3 wheel drive..
It also makes an Aweful racket
http://media.putfile.com/HPI-Dissapointment

thats funny as hell watching that thing jump off the curb...haha!!

why would you waste your money on the e10. if it has all the problems just get a tt01.

i doubt he bought it thinking hey im buying a buncha problems. also i think the newer us spec e10s are a little higher quality than the earlier pre US e10s

maybe, but why not just buy the tt01? save yourself all the trouble? just me though.

I have a TT-01 and it is LOADS better then the E10

I Bought the E10 hoping the Quality would be as good as the Sprint 2 but sadly it is just not there.

The E10 is a Step above a Tyco Drift king.. Leave it stock.. and you will be fine...... for a few months...
Then it will start to fall apart.
The Bevel gears and spur gears wear way faster then the TT-01..
At least Tamiya Addressed the Propshaft flex issue... HPI have not bothered..
The only hop ups the E10 has going for it , is a Sway bar and suspension tower Bling but thats useless if the drive train is the thing that lets the WHOLE car down..

Wow that sucks about the E10 magnat [] You should just stick it on a shelf, put a nice shell on, and look at it for a few months while HPI works out the bugs. Also might make a lovely paperweight...

hehe..hehe..hehe good thing i found this thread :P...was gonna buy the e10 and put a mamba max pro in it...hehe...hehe...btw are there any kits from tamiya where you could put your own stuff in it like how the E10 assembled is?