I need some tips
 

Ive been drifting for about a week and could use some tips.... I can do a basic turn and thats about it.... Just looking for advice

Don't "force" drifts. The set-up of the car is also VERY important. The steering servo should be a fast one - at least .10 transit speed or faster. That makes initiating drifts and controlling them easier. Power should be applied smoothly and slowly.


The most important thing to remember is, not to force drifts. Drifting is a very fine tuned style of driving, where small mistakes will look bad, and make your drifts look sloppy. Practice drifting in a circle. Practice until you can make near-perfect circles, time after time. Use something like a coke can to drift around.
Once you feel comfortable that you can do circles consistently, graduate to figure eights. Practice here is the key. If you get tired, take a break. You might be able to drift what you believe to be fantastic one day, and can't drift the way you want, the next, so it's not something that you should expect will be an everyday thing. If you find you aren't doing drifts well, put the transmitter down and try again the next day. Don't get frustrated if you can't learn as fast as you want. It takes a while to become proficient. I have been at it for seven years, and am no "expert."

Just be patient.

Ok thanks for the advice and is it normal for one of the front wheeles to sit still during a drift while the oter three are spinning?

No.

There's something wrong with the front diff. If you're running a one-way, the bearing needs to be looked at, and most likely cleaned.

Hi there, how is everyone.. I have literally just joined in the last few days and to introduce myself I have been building and driving various Rc cars for a long time.


I have had various Tamiya mini coopers, Tamiya ford cosworths, a volvo and a vauxhal vectra, with a range of 4x4 chassis, front wheel drive and rear wheel drive set ups..


My lastest project I have been working on is a Tamita Ta06 Pro Chassic. I have been modifying this and working on it for over a year and a half now and its starting to look realy great.


I have a blue R32 vw Golf shell on it
I have the front and rear blue alloy bulk heads and rear chassis stiffener
A locked diff
Blue alloy steering assembly
Carbon fibre reinforced chassis parts
A fusion Exceed Sport 13.5 turn brushless sensored motor and ESC
A Overlander 4250 lipo battery pack
A front one way alloy centre pully
Blue alloy TRF shocks
Blue alloy servo holder
Blue alloy brake discs and shoes
Blue alloy invisable shell supports but soon changing to black alloy
The outter front pully is changed to an alloy one
Blue alloy wheel lock nuts
A Carbon fibre quick release batter holder
A blue alloy servo saver horn
TA06 stabilizer set
Blue alloy damper spacers
The front pully holder is changed to a blue alloy one.
A fast steering servo with metal internal cogs
Hard radial slick drifting tyres
And tempted to get A GV model lipo saver cut off switch connected between the receiver and battery


And on their way are a nice set of proper alloy wheels in gun mental grey




Thank you

That first link has been removed, but the second, no, that wouldn't be a good idea. One-ways remove brake and reverse from that set of wheels. If you already have a front one way, a second one will remove all brakes. The entire idea of the "hand brake" effect with a one-way is gone.

Also, though a front center one-way pulley works O.K., a front one-way diff works better, because all the center pulley one-way does, is make a standard diff work in only one direction. and the diff still has "diff action," meaning only one front wheel is driving at any time. A front one-way drives BOTH front wheels independently, which is much more efficient and for drift, control is much improved.

The TA06 would also benefit from a good carbon chassis conversion kit. The Exotek or RSector conversions are good. I have an RSector conversion on my TA06, and it is stiff, and very well made, all for $80 US! A couple of pics, below....

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933268http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933269http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933270http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933271

cheers for your advise and comments, the r sector looks great but I really like the look of the ifs suspension set up and would like to keep it..

would it it be good to put a front one way diff in with my front centre one way pully for maximum effect? Something like the front one way counter steer cs drift pully which is blue alloy and grey?

The first link was just a link to show the alloy 18t pully that I've got for the outer front pully, with the front one way in the centre... I was wondering if the alloy 18t pully fits behind the spur gear to replace the standard plastic one that is on the chassis

i have carbon reinforced black chassis parts already but if I was a serious drifter I guess I would go for the fully carbon conversion

cheers

A couple of things on the IFS - First, The RSector and Exotek conversions have the IFS feature, so you can use either that, or the "stand up" shock version.
On the IFS, itself....the reasons are personal, but the IFS is harder to adjust right. It is heavily dependent on correct shock spring rate, and damping, to get right. The stand up shock set up is set and forget. I know it looks cool, but isn't a good choice for drift. Still, if you MUST have it, both carbon conversions support it.
Another reason I suggest a carbon conversion is, either of those conversions don't bottom-load the battery. The Exotek is a side-load, and the RSector is top-load. MUCH better and convenient arrangements.

It won't make any difference, having both a center and front one-way. They do not "complement" each other. They both have the same function, but give different results. Having both, however, won't hurt anything. I have a Tamiya TA05 VDF (the original first edition run), with a 1.60 CS kit installed. That came with a center one way pulley, and it is redundant, meaning it has no real purpose, since the front "diff" is already a one way.

Thats good to know about the conversion chassis kits, thanks... But still advisable to lock the front diff and use the front one way in combination?


No one seems to be able to tell me if there is an aluminium 18t replacement for the rear spur that the big black spur sits on at the rear of the chassis?. I have replaced the outer front spur to an 18t alloy equivalent so would I be right in assuming the rear one is the same as this one..

No.
The center one way lets the front diff act the same as it always does - drive one wheel - the one with the least traction. The front one-way drives BOTH front wheels, independently, which improves control. Having both a center and front one way is redundant, because they DO NOT complement each other. The extra one way is just more complication, that's all.

If you want to locate CS parts for the TA06, try CS Junkies. You might be able to get some sources for parts there. The TA06, however, doesn't have much available for it, at the moment. You can also try a vendor that goes by the moniker "kaw218" on Ebay. H sells CS parts for different manufacturers. He might be back selling, as he took a break for a bit. Check to see if he's back up. He's the one I got that 1.60 CS kit for my VDF from.

Ah ok, so how does it complicate it if you lock the front diff and use a centre one way with it.... Sorry about my endless questions but I'm only beginning to learn about drifting

im just purely wanting to replace the rear plastic gear that the drive belt sits on to an alloy equivalent, surely there must be as alloy one available for the rear as there is one available for the front outer spur that the belt dust on!

I have re read your comment and it makes sense, one increases control and the other decreases... Thanks :-)

Well, the differences are that the front one-way drives both front wheels independently, meaning they drive at different rates, regardless of whether the car turns left or right. Remember....during turning, the inside wheel turns at a slower rate than the outside wheel. The front one way compensates for this difference, and still drives both wheels, whereas a differential drives only one, at any one time. A locked front diff spins both front wheels equally, which also doesn't make up for the difference in wheelspin in turns.
In a 50/50 drifter, it makes no difference, but since CS overdrives the rear wheels, this difference is magnified because the wheels are turned in the direction of the drift.
Having two one ways on the same end complicates things only mechanically. The extra one way is a redundancy, meaning there is no purpose for it to be there, but it doesn't hurt performance any. If you have a front one-way and a center one way pulley, the extra one way does not add to performance, just mechanical complexity.

And I wouldn't get stuck on trying to find aluminum equivalents for all the pulleys. It sometimes isn't possible. I have 50/50 and CS chassis that have pulleys made of different materials on the same chassis. As long as they do their intended purpose, it doesn't matter what they're made of. Once the body is mounted, no one can see them, anyway.
CS kits address the pulleys required to change the ratio of whatever model they are made for, so if you are having trouble finding an aluminum pulley, it's probably a good bet that it isn't a required pulley that needs changing. Still, another source to try is Eagle Racing. They make CS kits for almost everything belt driven out there.

Thanks for that advice, ok so I'll stick to my standard diff at front with my front centre one way as from what you are saying that is enough to do the job?

I guessbi was was trying to change as many of the mechanical plastic parts as possible for durability reasons, as well as appearance but that's fair enough if they aren't available, it does seem strange that they are available for the front if the chassis but not the rear. I will check out eagle racing.

What I was trying to say is, that a front one way by itself is sufficient. A front one way is the thing to have. A front one way and center one way are much the same in operation, but not purpose. A standard diff and center one way are not as efficient, nor will control the front wheels of a CS drifter, as a front one way alone.
A front one way AND center one way are the redundancy, meaning the center one way is not required, but won't hurt anything, nor add to the front one way's duties. So, even if you have a center one way pulley, without a front one way, it will NOT be as efficient as a front one way, period. The "hand brake" effect is still there, but the independent front wheel drive aspect is not, and that's where the extra control comes from.
I hope that made it a bit clearer.

Yah, try Eagle Racing. If you can't find the pulley you're looking for, it probably isn't available anywhere, because it isn't a required pulley for CS conversion.

Thank you for the information, a well I have the centre in way now and like I say, I am a total novice and will only be using the car occasionally... I'm sure these things are more important for serious drifters and not a total beginner like moi

Well, if you are CS'ing your TA06, the front one way will be one of the options that make it easier to learn CS, otherwise, you get inconsistent performance. It's why, everywhere you look, all CS'ed chassis run front one ways. It matters not whether you will use it occasionally......it's all about consistency, and without it, there is no smoothness, either, and that's what CS drifting is all about.


It has even more importance, if you are not going to be drifting regularly! take my word for it.....I drift usually only during winters.....I appreciate that when I break them out, I can expect the same performance from all of them, since all of them, whether 50/50 or CS, all perform the same, every year, since they all have front one ways.

Ok then I shall make it one of my next purchases and take the centre one way out then,

with the front one way do you still get the front without braking like you do with the centre one way?

and just m totally clear, the front one way isn't a diff lock?

and why have the centre one way if the front one way is so much better for cs drifting ?

thanks very much

Yes, the loss of brakes at the front wheels will be the same, but you don't have to remove the center one way. It just becomes redundant, but has no effect otherwise. I run a front and center one way on my VDF, and the center one way has no effect. The front one way is the important thing......you definitely want more control of the front end, and the front one way allows that, where the center one way doesn't, primarily because a standard front diff is still there, and that was the part I've been trying to tell you is the one that should be replaced. :)

Ok cool, how does the front one way work to allow more control? Please explain in simple terms, remember I am just a total notice, :-)I really appreciate your time and patience with me! And..... how does the centre one way become redundant in combination, with the front one way?

No prob!

I really don't mind, as sometimes, concepts like these are hard to explain. I have included a couple of pics to help.

Notice the first pic.....

See the center pulleys? those are Eagle Racing ones, and the small one behind the one marked "24T" is a one way. The front one way is already mounted, and as you can see, is running a stock plastic pulley. The center one way is redundant - meaning it has no purpose outside of being a drive pulley, so it's removal isn't necessary, because the front one way is already performing the function you want.

The second pic shows the rear Eagle Racing rear pulley, that, in combination with both center pulleys, increases overdrive to 1.60.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933609http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1933610

O.K., a standard differential works exactly the same as in a full-size car. It drives only one wheel, whether right or left, depending on conditions. The thing to understand about a diff is, the wheel being driven is the one with the least drag on it, or the one with the least amount of traction available to it.
Now....understanding that, the reasons for this are that when cornering, the inside wheel will be turning at a slower rate than the outside wheel. this is why it is called a differential. To accommodate the differences in wheelspeed, between the inside and outside wheels. What a differential will NOT do, is drive both wheels equally, which is what drift depends on, especially CS drift (a little on that, later).

What the center one way, with a standard front diff does, is remove the brakes at the front wheels. That's all. The diff still acts as described above, driving only one wheel - the one with the least amount of traction, and you lose front brakes in the bargain. Not so great.

Now.....The front one way drives BOTH wheels INDEPENDENTLY. Meaning they both still drive at the same time, but being independently driven also accommodates the differences in wheelspeed, between the inside and outside wheels, and what that does, is increase control of the front of the car, by making drive forces equal to both wheels, when throttle is applied or maintained.
A CS'ed car, without a front one way's equal drive in both front wheels will be inconsistent, because the rear wheels, being overdriven, are "pushing" against what "grip" the front wheels have, and as you no doubt have already seen, is the low friction coefficient of drift tires, so there isn't much, to begin with. So....with this constant pushing against the front wheels, you want the best and most amount of control of the front of the car, and the front one way does this, better than any other type of "diff" available (even a spool, which will also drive both front wheels, but doesn't have that independent drive characteristic of each wheel, like a front one way does).

Let me know if that helps, because it's good to understand these concepts, so you know what you need, or don't need.

that is is very clear and easily understood, I hadn't rc drifting would get so technical but I'm very interested and finding it fun.

my question to follow would be, how does the front one way alone perform the no braking mode that the centre one way does that I currently have...

Everything else I understand perfectly now, thank you

Thanks again

LOL! :)

Somehow, I KNEW that was going to be your next question! :D

O.K.,...The front one way is called a one way, because of the two one way bearings in it. One for each side, or wheel. Each one way bearing will drive in one direction, but freewheel in the other, which is why brakes don't work, and reverse, too.

The center one way pulley has only one, one way bearing in it, but performs the same function, and allows whatever is mounted in front of it, whether a standard differential, spool or one way, to act as they were intended, but in forward mode only. This is why I say the center one way is redundant, when combined with a front one way. You still get forward drive, but the front one way is already performing it's duties, and still has that same forward drive/rear freewheel effect, so the center one way is just an extra function that is not needed, but doesn't negatively affect anything else, otherwise.

Confusing, but once you get the idea of how each component works, not that hard to grasp. :)

Ok so just so I've grasped it, everything works as intended in forward mode but becomes fully 4x4 drive in reverse as everything locks up as it is only a forward driving function.

And lastly, where did you get you wee fake exhaust and is it attached to the chassis or body? If I could rate members on here you would definitely get a million stars, cheers man

I will have to upload pics of my chassis when I get it fully sorted


Just out of curiosity is there a massive difference when just locking up the front and having full 4x4 driving in forward and reverse?