egbasher

If you want to convert to brushless it is hard to beat the EZRun 4300kV combo. It's cheap, durable, easy to maintain, comes with a programming card and doubled the speed of my EXT2. We clocked it well over 40 with a GPS. The stock Photonspeed 2 motor barely broke 20! I'm still running the stock slipper clutch with no issues. I think that motor/ESC combo is perfectly matched to the evader chassis. Fast but still very drivable.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html

egbasher

Thanks. Softer is what I'm looking for.

RustyUs

ST/BX ......2001
Nirto ST....2002
Nitro BX....2003
ST/BX Pro 2003
EXT...........2007
EXB .........2008
EXT2....... 2010
DT ...........2010
Brushless 2011
VW.......... 2011
EXT2.4 ....2013

Too bad that Duratrax never put out a SC version when the whole short course thing took off like wildfire.

DieHarder

^^^ Perfect! Nice work Rusty!

soad100100

Thanks Rusty!! I thought I got my Evader ST back in 2001, guess I was off a few years.......

So today, after about 5 years of sitting in the closet, I ran my ST for the first time. Needless to say, I quickly remember why I stopped working on the car. I cartwheeled the car and broke the front shock tower (wonder if they make an aluminum one?). Anyway, ordered a new shock tower, should be here in a few days.

5 years ago I modified my Evader St w/ a Novak havok ss 10.5 system. I rebuilt the transmission with a b2 upgrade as described by someone named cheetah and help from RClugnut10 in the original forum.

As I ran my ST today I noticed a few things:

1. At slow speeds the transmission didn't seem too smooth.. Not very rough but not at smooth as I would expect. At faster speeds everything was fine.

2. Speed.... Not sure how fast my setup should go.. but I thought it would go a little faster than it did.

Okay here's the questions:

Since it's been a few years... I wondering if there's a better tranny setup I can use? Does the evader brushless tranny fit on the ST?

How fast should I expect the setup to go? I'm running it on a lipo 7.4 5000mah 35c battery.

Random Question:

Are graphite parts weaker than the stock plastic parts?


Here's a link to a video of me cartwheeling my ST today........http://instagram.com/p/1HKtvgrEV3/

Thanks for everyone's help in advance..


Soad100100

DieHarder

The Evader Brushless Tranny is not a direct 'drop-in' fit in the ST. In order to convert it, you'll need to purchase all of this:

Gearbox Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB4&P=7
Diff Joint Spring Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA8&P=7
Rear Axle Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWW3&P=7
10x15mm Ball Bearing-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD144&P=ML
Dog Bone Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB3&P=7
BL Rear Chassis Plate-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 or EXT Rear Chassis Plate http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA5&P=7
4mm Locknuts-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCUT&P=7
Wheelie Bar (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
Assembled Differential-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7

Should go 40-45mph on that battery, which is plenty fast!

Lastly, Graphite parts are more brittle than plastic. The plastic tend to flex a little and save your butt. I stick with plastic for that reason, Graphite isn't saving THAT much weight with just one or two parts. Now the ST Pro has many Graphite parts, and it's an advantage there. If you have the regular ST though, stick with regular plastic.

soad100100

Thanks DieHarder!!

Will the brushless tranny setup work better than the setup I'm using?

I kinda converted my ST to a ST pro during my upgrade to brushless...... and the graphite has costed me a fortune!! You're right I'm sticking to plastic and maybe aluminum... a little loss of speed but extra strength is a major plus.

During said upgrade I also upgraded my rear chassis plate to metal/aluminum one.... with that being said, do they have metal/aluminum for the BL or the EXT?

I'll be ordering parts tonight..

DieHarder

Yes, the Evader Brushless tranny setup will work. The setup you currently have will require those parts I linked above. I can't find a metal aluminum rear chassis plate for any of the Evaders. I read some talk of one on the ST Pro, but I can't find a picture of it, link, post, nothing. They do not make one for the Evader Brushless tranny, so you'll have to get the plastic. The plastic ones are plenty strong IMO. If you have trouble, you can always buy this aluminum tranny brace. It really stiffens it up. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK6&P=7 But definitely not necessary. I'm running the plastic setup and it's fine. Most aluminum parts for the Evader are ridiculously expensive.

Buy the Evader Brushless rear chassis plate that I linked above, along with the wheelie bar. You're going to need the wheelie bar with 2S power and the Evader Brushless rear chassis plate has the right mounting holes for it. Don't get the EXT rear chassis plate, as that doesn't have mounting holes for the wheelie bar.

So yeah, order everything in my last post except the EXT rear chassis plate. Also, if you don't already have this front hinge pin brace, it's a good, cheap investment. It says it's for the Nitro ST, but it will fit the ST. You can't get the ST version because it's discontinued, but it's the same part as the Nitro.

Aluminum Hinge Pin Brace: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDSX6&P=7

soad100100

Thank You so much Diehard!!!!!

I've had my evader forever but I'm still a newbie and I appreciate it! Not to sound stupid but whats 2S Power? lol...

BTW I found post on here, from 2001 with evader questions...


I've attached a pic of my aluminum rear chassis plate.... its actually called, Adjustable Rear Toe-in/Anti-Squat Evader; Looks like Tower doesn't have it. I found it here http://*********.com.au/store/product_info.php?products_id=6110 .

soad100100

Will the Aluminum Tranny brace, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK6&P=7, fit on BL rear chassis plate?

soad100100

One more question.....


I'm assuming any 4mm locknuts will work, the ones you recommended are out of stock.... I'm hoping I get these instead... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTW66&P=7.. I only need two right?

DieHarder

Lipo batteries consist of individual lipo battery cells. 1 cell is 3.7v nominal voltage. So 2 cells = 7.4v, 3 cells = 11.1v, 4 cell = 14.8v, etc. Instead of saying 2 cell, everybody just uses the term 2S. 3 cell is 3S, 4 cell is 4S, etc. So your 7.4v battery consists of two lipo battery cells and is abbreviated 2S. I hope that makes sense.

THAT rear chassis plate is DOPE! Damn! It's just sick! What'd that cost ya?! You might be able to bolt the wheelie bar to the two holes that hold the motor guard on and keep that beauty. But if it doesn't work, you might as well just order the Evader Brushless rear chassis plate with your main order just in case. It's a pretty cheap part.

Yes, that aluminum tranny brace will fit the new gearbox. It's the same hole pattern for that part of the gearbox. The motor guard will fit the new gearbox too.

Any 4mm locknuts will work, but I like the ones that have flanges, even better, serrated flanges. They grab the wheel better and don't come loose while running. Here, these are flanged/serrated, cheaper, you get 8 instead of 5, in stock, and I use the same ones on mine: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSGZ2&P=7

soad100100

So I'm assuming that I'll get more power out of a 3S or 4S......... (wondering if my charger would charge that type of battery) Either way I should worry more about controlling the car at the speeds I can reach now.

Can you tell me a bit about my motor... When it was a brushed world; I knew the lower the turns the faster the motor.... is it that easy with brushless??

As for the rear chassis plate I think I paid about $20 bucks for it... that link didn't work, you can see the product description here http://www.philshobbyshop.com/catalo...u?sku=DTXC7017. The part number is DTXC7017 and also requires Pivot Blocks and spacers (DTXC9584). I don't think it will fit the BL gear box set. This website says they still have some in stock... http://shop.eliminator-rc.com/cgi-bi...egory_Code=CMA

Well I just placed my order.. I jumped the gun on the locknuts... If i have any trouble I'll change them up. Here's the order summary:

RustyUs

The Brushless/EXT Evader gearbox will fit in between those pivot block/suspension mounts fine. It's what been in my ST Pro since 2011.

And the $20 price tag for that chassis plate is a great price. I've seen them priced at $40 not long ago. I hate to say it but them DTXC9584 suspension mounts are the weakest point on the whole truck, and will strip easy...just don't over tighten them.

DieHarder

Don't go to 3S or 4S. It's too much power for your ESC/motor to handle. I run 3S in mine occasionally, but only for speed runs and to beat my friends' trucks. lol I have a VXL-3S system in mine and that handles the 3S, but still runs hot. The Evader runs PLENTY fast with 2S.

I did a Google search on your ESC/motor and found this spec page: http://teamnovak.com/products/brushl...pec/index.html It has some good info. Generally, the lower the turn, the more powerful the motor is. I actually have a 10.5T motor in my truck, just like you. Except mine is 3500kv while yours is 4200kv. Motors are also measured in kv and generally the lower the kv, the more torque you have and less speed, unless you increase the voltage. The higher the kv, the less torque you have and more speed, unless you increase the voltage, then you get more torque. The Evader runs great on anything between 3300-4300kv, so your setup should be on the faster side.

Looks like you've got everything on your order summary, good to go! Don't worry about the locknuts, those will work fine.

I didn't even know that Duratrax made those plates. Thanks for the pic and link. I do not think the EXT/Brushless gearbox will fit in it however. The only way to really tell is to see the top part of the plate. There is an inset on the plastic ones that the gearbox drops into. On the ST ones, the inset is too narrow for the EXT gearbox to fit, and won't fall in the inset. If your aluminum rear chassis plate is just a flat plate with no inset, then it might work. If it has an inset, I'm pretty sure the EXT gearbox will not fit. Could you unscrew your tranny and take a pic of the top of the plate for the archives? I can't find one online.

soad100100

I think the rear plate has the inset you mention... however, I think it might work; that's where the spacers go and the inset doesn't effect it.... I may be wrong, but check these pics out ..

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I would recommend the T-Bone Racing bumper over the wheelie bar.

DieHarder

Ok, so that has an inset, but not like the one on the plastic rear chassis plates. Because of the spacers, I'm thinking you should be able to use that plate with your new tranny, which is great! Just make sure the hole spacing on the tranny case and the rear chassis plate are the same/close. Thanks for the pics!

Rob is right about the T-bone racing front bumper. If you don't already have a large front bumper that can take a good beating, then T-bone racing has a good one for the Evader. I'd keep the wheelie bar myself because I use mine a LOT. But if you run on dirt like all the time, then it's probably not super necessary. I think you should leave the motor guard off and try to mount the wheelie bar where the motor guard screws in. You might have to drill some new holes, but it should be relatively close to lining up. Maybe if it works out right, you might be able to get your motor guard back in there too.

soad100100

So all of my parts came in today; I think I can figure out, for the most part, what I need to do to get this conversion done. One thing I can't figure out, right off the bat, is where the springs go. Is there a tutorial on here that someone has or can you give me a step-by-step guide to get this conversion done? Any help would be much appreciated.

RustyUs

I'm assuming you are talking about those springs that just keep the dogbones centered. And you will need four of them. I like to have extra on hand, or at least some sort of makeshift spares (springs from the negative battery side of a battery compartment on an unwanted electronic device) for when you put the Evader into a beautiful/nasty cartwheel.

RustyUs

List of Manuals: http://duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html
Brushless Evader Manual: http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxd37-manual.pdf

RustyUs

soad100100, I'm glad to see you are putting that Evader to some good use. I think you will be very happy with all the money, and upgrading you are doing to the tranny. I about gave up on Duratrax's ST when I was stripping gears only minutes after putting a rebuilt ball diff back in the gearbox. With the Brushless Evader gear diff installed, all my frustration went away. Oh, just in case someone out there reading this...the same Evader Brushless geared diff, from late 2011, is the same diff that is in my ST; with minimal signs of wear.

I was quickly glancing over posts and EXT2Rob mentioned about his How To Make Your Evader Bashproof thread...good stuff in there. So soad100100, one thing that I can think of before you go rip and tear, and I didn't see mentioned...diff screws/loctite

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah mate, check out that other thread where I detailed all the stuff I did. Regarding the Brushless Diff, besides the screws you need to loctite, you may want to do one more thing to it, although you probably could wait a little while. Inside the diff, behind the large "sun gear" or whatever term you like, is the back end of the outdrive. It is held in place by a small pin. This pin also fits into the back side of that gear. Over time, that pin will wear out and fail. When this happens, your diff will start making noise and when turning it by hand, will not feel smooth. You can replace those pins with 1.19mm Music Wire. (K&S Precision Metals stock #502) My LHS carries it. You can use stock #504 for wheel drive pins. Stuff is cheap and lasts forever.

soad100100

Thank you Rusty and thank you all!!

Latest update:

• BL tranny upgrade on Evader ST is complete..... First off, I had to use the BL Rear Chassis Plate; the holes didn't line up with the gear box on the aluminum one.
• Thanks to Rusty, I did the diff screws/loctite application... I hope I did this right. Does it matter if i completely removed one side of the diff during the procedure? During the process I realized you didn't have to completely removed the side to do the application. I put it back together... I just hope everything is tight.

Questions:

• The Rear Axle Set came with what looks like two black (thin) washers.... Does anyone know what these are? or where they go?
• How much should I tighten the lock nuts on the wheels? Should the wheel spin by force of hand (when motor is not attached)? or should i tighten to the point where they DON'T spin?
• I still have the original slip clutch on the ST, I see no reason to replace.... However, I don't know whats the right adjustment for it... Any help?
• Any thoughts on the tuning of the Camber and Toe-in/out ? And the correct way to tune?

Thanks all...

And I'll be looking into the T-Bone Racing bumper, anyone have a link of where I can find it?
Also, does anyone know where I can find the original green body for the Evader St and decals?

soad100100

One follow up question..


Does the Diff need to be tighten; Like...... I feel that I kinda held one of the outshaft and turned the other... not sure how that effects it???