geo950

Hey all,
If you read my last post, you'll know I recently had my Losi xxxt drive itself into a puddle, frying some electrics. Thanks to some help from my last post, I figured the problem was probably the receiver. So I removed the receiver. I then noticed that the brown wire from my esc to my reciever had torn off the esc. So now I'm planning to replace the receiver and esc. I looked online and can't find the esc I have. How do I choose a new one? I don't know if it depends on the motor (stock for the xxxt), or the reciever (JR r125) or what. Thanks for any input

narwalrus

My Feedback: (4)

Does this look like the ESC? http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB9522

geo950

Not even close. My esc is small, black, has dean's connectors, and doesn't have whatever that curly wire is on that one. it's named the V3R by gm racing

narwalrus

My Feedback: (4)

Do you use LiPo?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

If all that's wrong is the wire came out of the ESC, why not just solder it back on?

geo950

No, I'm not running lipos. 

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

well, to answer your basic question, the answer is:  it depends. 
it depends on what kind of transmitter you have as to what receiver you need to get.  They have to be compatible. That usually means you have to use the same receiver brand as your transmitter. (There are limited exceptions)  I've been very happy with the Fly Sky GT2 trans/rec I got from HobbyPartz.com.  For $20 you get a 2.4ghz trans/rec that works great, no crystals, no interference.  For $40 you can get the GT3 with a 10-model memory and lot's of other features like end-point adjustments and anti-lock brakes.

As for the ESC, it depends on what kind of motor you have, whether you still want to use it, is it sensored or not.  I have no experience mixing ESCs and motors of different makes. You would have to know how much power your motor draws and buy an ESC with the appropriate amperage rating.  Again, HobbyPartz has EZrun and Xerun ESC/Motor combos for very reasonable prices.  Your XXXT I think is similar to my Evader in weight and layout.  I am running EZrun 35A systems in both my evaders with 4300kv motors on 2S Lipo.  Plenty fast for me. and each system cost me less than $100.  What YOU choose depends on where and how you drive.  Street-running speed runs or off-road bashing?

geo950

Thanks so much for the help EXT2Rob.

Foxy

That would be a good combo for your setup, go for it.

thehuntingterminator

That setup would likely work great, but there have been a fair number of people who have had problems with that motor. It seems that after about 155 degrees, the magnets debond, killing the motor. And it's not just people who don't know what they are doing, either. If you want a combo like that, spend $10 more and get this ESC and motor.
The motor I linked should be better quality and have much, much more power (I've used it before and it's one of the best motor's I've used for the price). And shipping is only $3.99. Plus, the combo you were looking at on ebay will come directly from China, so it will take forever (a month usually) to get here. This will come from Illinois:
-ESC: http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...ezrun-60a.html
-Motor: http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...or-3190kv.html

geo950

Thanks a lot guys, I'll go for the ones Huntingterminator recommended!

thehuntingterminator

Glad I could help you out! 2s, 3s, 4s, etc. just means the number of cells in a lipo battery. 2s means a 2 cell, 3s means a 3 cell battery, and so on and so forth. I would highly recommend going lipo. My brother has a brushless Traxxas Rustler and runs my GForce 5000mah 25c 2s lipo (only a $18 battery) and gets around 45 minutes of runtime easy. Plus, with lipos there is very little voltage drop unlike NIMH. This means that when you run a NIMH, you feel the power slowly going down as you run the pack down. A lipo, however, doesn't do this hardly at all. I mean it does, but it's much less of a drop resulting in very little noticeable power loss. Basically, you have the same power when you start and when you end. Its awesome.

geo950

I have 2 onyx 5000 mah lipos for my proboat, but they're significantly thicker then my nimhs, so I'm not sure that they'd fit

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

That shouldn't stop you. There are a number of folks here who've come up with clever ways around that issue.  But I'm surprised your 5000mah Lipos are "significantly" thicker than the NiMh pack.  Oh, and 2S, 3S, 4S, etc, not only is the number of cells in the pack, it also, obliquely, refers to the pack's voltage.  2S is 8.4V, 3S is 11.2V, etc.

geo950

Hahaha, I'll have to figure out something. So if my LiPo is 7.4 V, it's...less than 2s?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Oooops......my bad.  Yeah, even tho a LiPo is rated 7.4V, it charges up to about 8.4V.  A LiPo is discharged when it reaches about 7 volts.  Rule of thumb: you don't want to discharge a LiPo below 3.2V per cell, 3.4V for safety margin, or 6.8V for a 2S Lipo.  If you go below 3V your LiPo battery is damaged and should not be recharged.

geo950

Is the only way to check that using a voltometer

Foxy

Lipo is simply 3.7v per cell nominally and fully charged 4.2v per cell. When buying, you want to use the 3.7v per cell rule to figure out what you are buying.

You don't need a voltmeter, but a multimeter is never a bad investment.

thehuntingterminator

You can use a voltmeter, but if you have a balancing charger (the standard nowadays for lipo charging) then it will tell you the cell voltages. Or, you can buy something like this that you will tell you the voltage of the whole pack and each individual cell (comes in handy). All you have to do is plug it in correctly to the balancing plug.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-2in1-RC...item41672c83f8

geo950

Thank you very much everyone. I learned a lot from this thread, haha.