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Official Rustler Thread

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Old 12-06-2010, 12:31 AM
  #7901  
phmaximus
 
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Hey what motor ya running, My Brother in law has some nice parts for sale soon, Twin cam head ported to the max, extractors for both types of heads, TDR supercharger and a few bits & peices

Ahhhh liquidrc are based in the US but thay still post here for only $1
Old 12-06-2010, 12:39 AM
  #7902  
Aussie Fly
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Aljo

I buy my Auto-Air from the Aussie importer in Adelaide, company is http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/

My Clearcoat etc comes from Concept Paints in Melbourne. But you can use any good brand of 2k Clear.

I have a few k worth of painting equipment in my shed as I am doing some bike resto's etc from home. It's a hobby of mine I have done for years which is becoming a bit more serious now. I am self taught but have painted cars, bikes and even small aircraft (Cesnas etc) for awhile.

Note that Auto-Air is for spray guns or airbrushing. They don't have pressure packs etc. So unless you have some gear you will have to stick with what most guys use.

Hope this helps.


ORIGINAL: Aljo

ORIGINAL: Aussie Fly

Hi Aljo,

Yes it is a handful but I am new to electric so don't have anything to compare it to.

I bought it off ebay in the USA a few months back and had this combo in it but was running 8cell Nimh.

The gear box is standard but I am pretty sure it has the VXL gears etc.

It was running 89-16 gears with4.6" diameterTalon Stampede Wheels / Tiresso was good for just under 100kmh.

Cant give you any feedback on this tyre combo as yet, as there unused. I will let you know sometime this week what there like.
That ESC/motor would hit over 100KM/h with a Max Amps LiPo 6000XL 60c 3-cell 11.1v battery, it would supply the max burst the ESC can provide 360AMP. That would be insane. My ESC max burst is 190AMP thus I use 5000MAH 40C but I will be buying a 3cell soon for the fun factor. Just a heads up if you go the higher voltage "For 7-9 cells NiMH or 3 cells Lipo: You must change the standard cooling fan because it cannot work with such a high voltage, so please choose a high voltage fan or supply the fan from the receiver (+6V)".
I have no experience painting a body and will be looking into tackling that soon yours looks like a pro panel beater went to town on it. Which store do you purchase your parts from here in Aus or if not in Aus where from?
Old 12-06-2010, 12:44 AM
  #7903  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

I have no idea why I am running the 60a…..lol

It was on it when I bought it, it works well and it fly's!!

What more can u want :-)



ORIGINAL: phmaximus

hey guys...
Just wondering why a 60a ESC and not a 35A????????
With all by ezrun ESC i just soldered the fan wires onto the BEC, works a treat.

Aljo

Here is my fav places to get rc parts here in Australia
ebay.com.au
ebay.com
liquidrc.com (only $1 postage no matter what)
frontlinehobbies.com.au
Old 12-06-2010, 02:16 AM
  #7904  
Aljo
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

In my opinion the site I linked http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html takes more settings into account like Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratios, Transmission Gear Ratio, added radius of tire "ballooning" in inches, Current draw in amps & motor resistance in Ω to give a more accurate theoretical speed. But it does state that vehicle weight, battery quality, drivetrain drag - play a factor in the accuracy but after 45MP/H the accuracy is deminished by the aerodynamics and all those forementioned factors by a larger amount which in my opinion causes huge issues in the handling which translates into overall speed thus the body aerodynamics issue I mentioned in my 1st posts.

Do your brushless motors run hot after a 20min run? What temps do you see after a long run? My batteries last between 30 to 45min depending on terrain. I have heard mixed opinions on BL motor temps some say they are meant to run hot others say should be as hot as ESC heatsink and no more than 70celc.... Mine ESC never gets very warm and motor hurts to touch after 7 to 10sec. I have ordered motor cooling fans and hope that will help to lower the heat but as far as I am concerned seems fine I have even run it with a 17t pinion on 86t spur and still same heat.
Old 12-06-2010, 03:06 AM
  #7905  
phmaximus
 
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Hey Fly cant wait to see some vid's

Aljo


Thats cool, Im old school, i like to work things out my self, but who would know how much there tyres balloons?, Motor draw? & motor resistance?. How would u even mesure these???? I know how to check draw & resistance on a brushed motor, but how do u do it on a brushless motor????

yeah yeah.. The rustler total gear ratio from motor to wheel is (spur/pinion)x2.72. Nothing els matters, as far as i know there are only 1 diff ratio & gear ratio for these cars.

Yes Im aware that these calculations will never be exact, but its bettter than nothing, mind u 45MP/H is fast for most r/c cars. & im not supprised that thay dont handle that well at those speeds, Hitting a 10mm bump would be like hitting a 100mm bump in a real car. Im shure there are more aerodynamic body out there but aint thay for mainly on road cars? I mean how fast do u want to go off road & is the off road surface suited to that speed? & ive found with one of mine that it seems to go noticeable slower off road.

Ive never had any problems with BL motors getting hot, dont know whats going on with yours, how hot is it?
Have u thought about getting a trx bandit? it might be more suited for speed, its lighter too
Old 12-06-2010, 06:55 AM
  #7906  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Wow it was a busy night on the form. I ran the rustler on a indoor carpet track yesterday and it did well but I ripped the can of the motor mounting plate sonic going to jb weld it back together and away we go.
Old 12-06-2010, 07:21 AM
  #7907  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Wish there was a indoor track up here in Muskoka.  Will have to settle with winterizing my Ruslter.  Jackedman you know where to get the ski set for the rustler??   Will have to do some waterproofing with the old way with balloons.
Old 12-06-2010, 08:54 AM
  #7908  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread


ORIGINAL: phmaximus


ORIGINAL: B192734


So looking it up in the manual, it looks like the stock XL-5 speed control is listed for 4-8 cell (4.8-9.6v) for a NIMH battery. What would that translate into for LIPO? Do I just pay attention at that point to the voltage, or...? Also if I switch over to LIPO, is there anything else that I would need to get first, or can I just charge it up and plug it in and tear through the mud?
With lipo's the cell volage is alot higher than nimh, thay come in 1s 3.7v, 2s 7.4v 3s & 11.1v. there are higher voltage batterys too.
If u are planing to use a lipo with the XL-5 ESC u will need a lipo low voltage cut off, this will prevent the battery getting to flat (if a lipo gets to flat it can not be charged again)
One of the best cut off ive found & used are the novark lipo cut offs. it has a warning light that flashes then stays on, & when it getting flat it pullses the motor & when its down to the low voltage it cuts off the motor to prevent damage to the battery.



most brushless ESC have a cut off built in.

one good point about lipo's is thay still go as hard on a 1/2 charge just like when thay have a full charge, unlike nimh & nicad that just get slower & slower untill thay are flat.
So...Not having dealt with LIPO before, How do I wire this thing in? I would think that I would run from the battery through the LVC then to the ESC? Would I need to change the connection type from the ESC out to hardwire that together, or ? Just trying to wrap my head around this and get me ducks in order before I go out and start buying stuff. Thanks for the help.
Old 12-06-2010, 09:31 AM
  #7909  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Here is a pdf of how it connects into your system.

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...smart_stop.pdf
Old 12-06-2010, 04:30 PM
  #7910  
Aljo
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

ORIGINAL: phmaximus

Hey what motor ya running, My Brother in law has some nice parts for sale soon, Twin cam head ported to the max, extractors for both types of heads, TDR supercharger and a few bits & peices

Ahhhh liquidrc are based in the US but thay still post here for only $1
Now running the 1MZ-FE V6 3.0 litre 32 valve, just changed from the 3SGTE and before that was 3TGTE the new setup still needs the Forced induction 1MZ-FE just juggling multiple things at the moment. I have had the car since highschool.

ORIGINAL: phmaximus

Hey Fly cant wait to see some vid's

Aljo


Thats cool, Im old school, i like to work things out my self, but who would know how much there tyres balloons?, Motor draw? & motor resistance?. How would u even mesure these???? I know how to check draw & resistance on a brushed motor, but how do u do it on a brushless motor????

yeah yeah.. The rustler total gear ratio from motor to wheel is (spur/pinion)x2.72. Nothing els matters, as far as i know there are only 1 diff ratio & gear ratio for these cars.

Yes Im aware that these calculations will never be exact, but its bettter than nothing, mind u 45MP/H is fast for most r/c cars. & im not supprised that thay dont handle that well at those speeds, Hitting a 10mm bump would be like hitting a 100mm bump in a real car. Im shure there are more aerodynamic body out there but aint thay for mainly on road cars? I mean how fast do u want to go off road & is the off road surface suited to that speed? & ive found with one of mine that it seems to go noticeable slower off road.

Ive never had any problems with BL motors getting hot, dont know whats going on with yours, how hot is it?
Have u thought about getting a trx bandit? it might be more suited for speed, its lighter too
Ya Ienjoy theory crafting myself. Most of the other info is available somewhere online or in booklets supplyed with motor and ESC - EZRUN has these specs for there combos on websiteand tyre ballooning is tricky but you can get a close guestimate.

Ya it gets pretty hot 7sec finger touch and it hurts I would say 80celc. I am gonna see how it goes after this major rebuild. I have run it about 26 times now 13 times per battery and no problems just a hot motor.
Nuh if I go buggy will go 1/8 4x4 buggy prob 2 stroke or maybe nitro. Come to think of it I am not a big fan of petrol really like the brushless setups so 1/8th 4x4 brushless.
Old 12-06-2010, 05:52 PM
  #7911  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Well i finally dusted my 1st gen xl-5 rustler off. and got some MAJOR UPGRADES. i had already gotten the steel diff set so no worries there. I got myself a futaba 2pl remote system. (for my Tmaxx3.3 and rustler) i have also gotten the castle creations sidewinder 4600 combo. 3s Lipo as well. let me say first of all THIS IS SUPER POWERFUL. wheelies no problem. so far stock gearing. seems to be getting warm to hot. need a temp gun next. does anyone else use this set up?

no idea top speed or anything just know its faster than my tmaxx by far!
Old 12-06-2010, 06:05 PM
  #7912  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

I got my Rustler finally up and going again after about 2 weeks of motor issues with the Titan 12t. I got my new motor free from Traxxas after telling them how bad the first motor was, and I haven't had my Rusty in almost 2 weeks or so! They also sent me a smaller pinion gear for free. Ran 2 battery cycles through it, but both boring speed runs trying to break in the new motor. I'm getting a VXL Bandit at Xmas, so I"m super excited!
Old 12-07-2010, 08:04 AM
  #7913  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread


ORIGINAL: Muskokarc

Here is a pdf of how it connects into your system.

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...art_stop.pdf

Links not working. No worries. I can likely figure it out. Shouldn't be all that confusing. Question though. When you get everything hooked up, battery charged and you're tearing around. With the LIPO, when the battery gets to the low voltage point that it's supposed to cut out, does it actually just shut down, or do you get a warning letting you know that it's about to happen? Or does it just shutdown and you have to wander out to wherever it stopped and retrieve it?
Old 12-07-2010, 08:11 AM
  #7914  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread



Hmm odd, try just copying this one into your address bar and look for the right doc.
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/

The documentation says that it will light the light and the motor will pules and then stop.




Old 12-07-2010, 08:35 AM
  #7915  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Good to know. I think I am probably going to go out and buys some goodies this week. Maybe try to have everything set up and ready to go by the weekend. There's a great little park not far from me that is usually totally empty. Nice dirt trails to run down, and a little creek, and some good mud. Everything you could ask for except jumps. I know there are so many different opinions out there, but are there any batteries and LVC's that are nice and cheap but good quality that people have found? I don't want to buy junk, but if there's something good out there I'd rather keep costs low if possible. That way more parts can be bought...
Old 12-07-2010, 09:02 AM
  #7916  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Another quick question...

I currently am running 16/86 gearing. I have a bunch of other random gear sizes in the parts box at home, and was wondering if I switch over to LIPO's is there a better gearing setup to run for just bashing around, or would that still work just fine?
Old 12-07-2010, 09:30 AM
  #7917  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

It's a known issue that the Novak 2s Smart Stop does NOT play well with the Traxxas XL-5 ESC. Blue cased ones don't work at all, and it's a gamble if it will work with the yellow cased model. It didn't on mine, caused all kinds of glitching, the ESC would blink on and off, and it acted like it was in training mode whenever the SS was plugged in.
Old 12-07-2010, 10:02 AM
  #7918  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

I'm running a bl setup with a mod 8 spur 56tooth and a 15 pinion and it's nuts
Old 12-07-2010, 10:11 AM
  #7919  
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ORIGINAL: Jeckler

It's a known issue that the Novak 2s Smart Stop does NOT play well with the Traxxas XL-5 ESC. Blue cased ones don't work at all, and it's a gamble if it will work with the yellow cased model. It didn't on mine, caused all kinds of glitching, the ESC would blink on and off, and it acted like it was in training mode whenever the SS was plugged in.
So I was finally able to look it up, and since I do have the waterproof (blue) ESC it's not compatible right now. That's fine. I also am kind of thinking of keeping this truck as it is for now, and picking up a second truck to make for myself. Let the rest of the family play with the old one, and I'll get the good one...That's fair right? That way, I may just get the brushless right off the bat and not have to worry about it.
Old 12-07-2010, 04:40 PM
  #7920  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

If you put a VXL system in an old rustler tranny thats plastic mostly, yall think it would last if you left the slipper a little loose and i only run 7 cells?
Old 12-07-2010, 05:54 PM
  #7921  
Aljo
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread


ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator

If you put a VXL system in an old rustler tranny thats plastic mostly, yall think it would last if you left the slipper a little loose and i only run 7 cells?
IMO it would handle it if you leave the slipper clutch 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose but eventually the rpm would generate high amounts of heat that it is just going to wear out faster. The Idler gear in my Rustler was plastic and when I was running the 4300KV brushless motor it only lasted 1.5 batteries before it was stripped out but I had the slipper clutch a little too tight I would say. In Aus the full steel setupcost $50 Max I would think you would get it alot cheaper.
Old 12-07-2010, 05:55 PM
  #7922  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

yeah i can get all steel gears for less than 30 bucks at my LHS
Old 12-07-2010, 11:30 PM
  #7923  
Aljo
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

ORIGINAL: Jackedman

Wow it was a busy night on the form. I ran the rustler on a indoor carpet track yesterday and it did well but I ripped the can of the motor mounting plate sonic going to jb weld it back together and away we go.
Man my hobby store mate wants to create an indoor carpet track in the warehouse next door to his shop his family owns the whole property so looks like it may happen next year XX fingers gonna love it, also an indoor drift track too.
Old 12-08-2010, 02:17 AM
  #7924  
Aljo
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Need some help finding a set of rims that are 2.8" suited for the Nitro Rustler front and rear that are not traxxas as they are very expensive here in Aus and I can't wait for shipping times during this busy time of year from the USA. What other brands and the modle of the rims should I look at? (Nitro Rustler)

Thanks in advance
Old 12-08-2010, 01:18 PM
  #7925  
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Default RE: Official Rustler Thread

Hey guys,

Haven't been in the thread for a few days but there is some good news! I ordered the power supply I need to get my charger going and FINALLY run the rustler and it should be here in a few days. Super excited to get everything running good. Also, my used stampede from eBay finally came in! It was very dirty but overall everything seemed to be in good condition at first sight. The battery was a little more beat up then I thought, but hey, it was free. Also, the truck came with a lot of extra parts so I'm happy about that.

I didn't have any time to take pics because its going to be my christmas gift, so I only got to check it over for a short time..

I'll get some of the trucks up whenever

Brett


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